This inexpensive effort may not compete with its pricier cousins when it comes to depth and potency, but it is decently focused on Zinfandel berries, it is supple in feel and it does not run afoul of bothersome heat. It is in all ways a tasty and functional table wine that goes down easily with food, and its slight lack of drama is small considering its inviting and oft-discounted price.

In another twist, the tasting started with the red wines, two that provided a striking New World-Old World contrast: Yanagarra Estate Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre Cadenzia McLaren Vale 2004 (93 pts. $25) saw extensive aging in new oak...Trotter was tyring to have a dish that would stand up to the power and concentration of the Australian wine. The audience liked both pairings, but gave the edge to Yangarra in their voting....Puck countered with a dih he called duck on duck on duck. I was surprised how food-friendly the Yangarra is, said the chef, It's riper, more approachable now.

Top 100 Wines of 2006 Yangarra Estate Vineyard 2004 Cadenzia #43 - 93 points Owned by Kendall-Jackson, Yangarra cultivates about 400 acres of vineyards in McLaren Vale's eastern foothills, where the climate tends to be cooler than in the rest of the appellation. Winemaker Peter Fraser makes this wine by blending 50 percent Grenache, 40 percent Shiraz and 10 percent Mourvedre. The Grenache vines, many of which were planted in 1946, grow in sandy soils without any irrigation. 2,474 cases made.

The wine that made America fall in love with Chardonnay is still semi-sweet, with a treasure trove of tropical fruit and spice flavors, boosted with creamy oak barrel influence, that's pretty irresistible at this price. Now sourced exclusively from coastal counties, the wine shows a brisk, citrusy acidity.

WHITE WINES California Chardonnay THREE STARS 2002 Carmel Road Arroyo Seco

2005 ARROWOOD HOOT OWL VINEYARD SPECIAL SELECT LATE HARVEST No one in American produces more decadently rich Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese-styled late harvest Rieslings than Dick Arrowood, who began making these wines when he was the winemaker at Chateau St. Jean during the decade of the seventies. While their colors now resemble molasses, they remain fresh and lively. Arrowood has hit home runs with all three covees in 2005. Although reminiscent of syrup, yet unbelievably fresh because of its superb acidity, the 2005 Special Select Late Harvest Riesling Hoot Owl creek was bottled with 17.4 grams of residual sugar. In addition to its terrific acidity, it possesses wonderful honeyed flavors. This effort can be served with dessert or as dessert....

The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Dakota's vineyard is planted in more reddish, loamy soils mixed with the white volcanic ash. It is a deeper, fuller-bodied effort with an inky/purple color as well as sweet aromas of blueberries, blackberries, graphite, and subtle new oak. With beautiful purity as well as hints of crushed stones and flowers, a wealth of fruit, an extravagantly rich mouthfeel, sweet tannin, and a long finish, this seamless Cabernet should drink well for 15-20 years.

2005 ARROWOOD SELECT LATE HARVEST RIESLING SARALEE'S VYD. No one in America produces more decadently rich Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese-styled late harvest Reislings than Dick Arrowood, who began making these wines when he was the winemaker at Chateau St. Jean during the decade of the seventies. These brilliant sweet wines can age exceptionally well as evidenced by some bottles in my cellar from the late seventies. While their colors now resemble molasses, they remain fresh and lively. Arrowood has hit home runs with all three cuvees in 2005. Arrowood's Beerenauslese wine, the 2005 Select Late Harvest Riesling Saralee's Vineyard, was bottled with 12.1 grams of residual sugar. It is similar to the regular Late Harvest Riesling, just richer, more intense, and more unctuous.

2005 CHARDONNAY BROKEN ROAD ALEXANDER VALLEY A new offering is the 300-case cuvee of 2005 Chardonnay Broken Road, which was aged in 42% new French oak, fermented with indigenous yeasts, and was put through full malolactic. It possesses abundant mineral and honeyed citrus characteristics along with a subtle notion of wood, an excellent texture, and a long, tannic, structured finish. Produced from a vineyard planted at an 1,800 foot elevation, this beauty is, sadly, limited in availability. Enjoy it over the next 4-5 years.

93 HARTFORD COURT CHARDONNAY SEASCAPE VINEYARD UNFILTERED A super 2004 is the Chardonnay Seascape. This cold Sonoma Coast site exhibits wonderful candied citrus, honeyed grapefruit, orange marmalade, honeysuckle, and floral characteristics, great fruit on the attack and mid-palate, full body, and beautiful purity. Sadly, there are only 279 cases produced. This is one of my favorite wineries for Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs as well as full-throttle Zinfandels (although the 2005s are lighter than usual). Don Hartford and Jess Jackson have incredible access to some fabulous vineyards.

The blockbuster 2004 Highland Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Mountain Estate comes from Jess Jackson's vineyard on Mt. Veeder. Another 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 21 months in mostly new French oak, it boasts an inky/purple color in addition to sweet aromas of blue fruits, creme de cassis, licorice, and graphite. Full-bodied, pure, structured, and built for the long haul, there are only 422 cases of this gorgeous Cabernet. A wine for connoisseurs, it requires 4-5 years of cellaring, and should last for 20-25 years.

The deep purple-colored 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Montana reveals aromas of crushed rocks, flowers, black currants, and spicy oak. Powerful, tannic, medium to full-bodied flavors coat the mouth, but this cuvee clearly needs time in the bottle. Although it possesses beautiful purity, structure, and intensity, it will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring, and should keep for 15-20.

2004 PROPRIETARY RED One of the finest Legacys made in a number of years, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot (All from Jess Jackson's Legacy Vineyard planted high up on Alexander Mountain) exhibits a deep ruby/purple color along with a big, sweet nose of toast, black currant liqueur, flowers, and licorice. Full-bodied, offering a hint of crushed rocks, powerful tannins, a rich mid-section, and a miltilayered texture as well as finish, this is a stunning red to enjoy over the next 15 or more years.

2005 CHARDONNAY UPPER BARN ALEXANDER VALLEY A vineyard make famous by Helen Turley in the 1990s, exhibits more brioche, white peach, apricot, and poached pear characteristics along with good underlying acidity (typical of the Chardonnay vintage). Drink it over the next 4-5 years.

The single vineyard Chardonnays include the 2005 Highland Estates Chardonnay Camelot Vineyard, which comes from the Santa Maria Valley. Its complex aromatic profile includes scents of tropical fruits (pineapple), spice, and brioche. This well-made, medium to full-bodied effort reminds me of a classic premier cru Meursault in its smoky, earthy, ripe fruit notes. Drink this beauty over the next 2-3 years.

2004 ARROWOOD SYRAH KULJIAN VINEYARD The big, terroir-driven 2004 Syrah Kuljian Vineyard (198 cases) falls somewhere in between its two siblings. Possessing abundant amounts of damp earth, truffle, pepper, blackberry, blueberry, and acacia flower notes, it is a serious, full, chewy, impressive Syrah that may improve for 2-3 years, and last for a decade.

The 2004 Syrah Saralee's Vineyard was aged in French oak for 18 months and bottled unfined and unfiltered. It exhibits plenty of blackberry, bacon fat, and exotic fruit aromas (a small quantity of Viognier is co-fermented with this cuvee). This lush Syrah is difficult to resist, but if you can keep your hands off of it, it should age well for 5-10 years.

2005 ARROWOOD LATE HARVEST RIESLING No one in America produces more decadently rich Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trokenbeerenauslese-styled late harvest Rieslings Than Dick Arrowood, who began making these wines when he was the winemaker at Chateau St. Jean during the decade of the seventies. These brilliant sweet wines can age exceptionally well as evidenced by some bottles in my cellar from the late seventies. while their colors now resemble molasses, they remain fresh and lively. Arrowood has hit home runs with all three cuvees in 2005. The 2005 Late Harvest Riesling (301 cases) is an Auslese-like white offering gorgeous tropical fruit, honeysuckle, and peach-scented aromas as well as great acidity. It was bottled with 7.2 grams of residual sugar, and is low in alcohol.

2004 HARTFORD COURT PINOT NOIR ARRENDELL VINEYARD My favorite of this quartet is the 2004 Pinot Noir Arrendell Vineyard from a 30-year old, cool climate site. A concentrated, elegant Pinot revealing notes of kirsch, raspberries, cloves, anise, forest floor, and underbrush as well as fine acidity and moderate tannin, it will drink well for 5-6 years. This is one of my favorite wineries for Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs as well as full-throttle Zinfandels (although the 2005s are lighter than usual). Don Hartford and Jess Jackson have incredible access to some fabulous vineyards.

The 2004 Highland Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Trace Ridge Estate, from a high elevation Knight's Valley vineyard, is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 21 months in French oak. Notes of blueberries, cassis, graphite, and crushed rocks are found in this medium to full-bodied elegant, pure, well-structured effort. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020+.

2005 ARROWOOD VIOGNIER SARALEE'S VINEYARD The 2005 Viognier Saralee's Vineyard exhibits a big, open-knit, rose petal, litchi, and apricot-scented nose, delicious fruit, good freshness, and a full-bodied palate.

The 2004 Highland Estates Merlot Taylor Peak is 100% Merlot aged 15 months in French oak. Sadly, only 1,500 cases are produced of this winner. Aromas of white chocolate, black cherries, and mountain berries are followed by medium to full-bodied flavors as well as a striking underlying minerality that comes from the rocky soils of this high elevation vineyard. This gorgeous Merlot has a European-like delicacy combined with the richness and power of California. Drink it over the next 10-15 years.

The most expensive offering in this portfolio is the 2004 Stature Meritage, a 281-case blend of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and small quantities of Petit Verdot, Malbec, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. Minty vanillin, black currant, sweet cherry, smoke, earth, and spice characteristics emerge from this backward, brooding effort. Give it 2-3 years of bottle age and consume it over the following two decades.