Another outstanding wine in the making is the 2007 Le Desir. Its spicy perfume exhibits notes of roasted herbs, sweet black cherries and black currants, scorched earth, licorice, and toasty oak. Exceptionally concentrated and full-bodied but backward, it displays superb aging potential. As always, these are individualistic reds that should only be purchased by those with serious patience and cold cellars as they are not meant for near-term gratification. (Not yet released) With Bordeaux winemaker Pierre Seillan in charge, owner Jess Jackson has clearly positioned Verite as one of the two or three flagship wines in his impressive empire. These cuvees represent California versions of Bordeaux appellations, with the Merlot-dominated La Muse very Pomerol-like, the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated La Joie a hypothetical California version of a Medoc, and the St.-Emilion look-alike, the Merlot and Cabernet Franc blend, Le Desir. These wines are fashioned from the finest Sonoma vineyard sites owned by Jackson, and are meant for long-term aging. In 2007, the Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot) grown in California’s North Coast exhibit sweet tannins as well as superb fragrance and purity. Yet, Verite’s wines are among the more structured, dense, and powerfully backward of the vintage.

The 2007 La Muse possesses oodles of mocha and espresso-infused black cherry and black currant fruit aromas, rich black fruits in the mouth, and loads of glycerin, fruit, and depth. Yet the tannins kick in in the back, and, in all likelihood, this 2007 will turn out to be as backward as the 2006. At this stage of development, it reminds me of a 2002, which turned out fabulous for Verite. (Not yet released) With Bordeaux winemaker Pierre Seillan in charge, owner Jess Jackson has clearly positioned Verite as one of the two or three flagship wines in his impressive empire. These cuvees represent California versions of Bordeaux appellations, with the Merlot-dominated La Muse very Pomerol-like, the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated La Joie a hypothetical California version of a Medoc, and the St.-Emilion look-alike, the Merlot and Cabernet Franc blend, Le Desir. These wines are fashioned from the finest Sonoma vineyard sites owned by Jackson, and are meant for long-term aging. In 2007, the Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot) grown in California’s North Coast exhibit sweet tannins as well as superb fragrance and purity. Yet, Verite’s wines are among the more structured, dense, and powerfully backward of the vintage.

A dead ringer for a great vintage of St.-Emilion’s most expensive wine, Ausone, the 2005 Le Desir (49.9% Cabernet Franc, 39.3% Merlot, 8.7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2.1% Malbec) has an inky/purple color and a gorgeous nose of crushed rocks, violets, licorice, sweet black cherries, blackberries, and currants. The wine is full-bodied, like all of these wines, rich, but ferociously tannic and dominated by its mineral component. This is an exceptional wine that needs to be forgotten for at least 5-10 years and drunk thereafter. Whatever one says about Verite, these are wines with the aging potential and backwardness of a first-growth Bordeaux. Patience is most definitely a primary consideration when contemplating a purchase, as these are not wines for near-term gratification.

The opaque purple-colored 2002 La Muse ( a blend of extremely sweet, concentrated bouquet of blackberries, blueberries, melted licorice, and smoky oak. Notes of espresso, incense, and Asian spices also make an appearance in this full-bodied, voluptuously-textured, sensationally extracted 2002. It may be more forward, riper, and headier than the 2001. Enjoy it between 2005-2020.

The 2010 La Joie has all of the rich explosiveness it had last year. Grilled herbs, black fruit, smoke, tobacco, incense and graphite all take shape in the glass. Firm, structured tannins support the fruit in a wine that captures the essence of this fabulous, cool vintage. The 2010 continues to open up in the glass, showing gorgeous inner perfume and sweetness. Cassis, white flowers and violets add nuance on the opulent, mineral-infused finish. A super-ripe, racy wine, the 2010 La Joie should enjoy a wide window of drinkability. The blend is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025.

(77% cabernet sauvignon, 9% each merlot and cabernet franc, 3% petit verdot and 2% malbec): Bright deep ruby. Nuanced nose offers black cherry, licorice, minerals and bitter chocolate. Dense black fruit flavors showcase the wine's explosive cabernet sauvignon element yet also convey a sense of medicinal reserve. The outstanding rising finish features noble, building tannins. Extremely suave wine in the making.

A barrel sample, the 2016 Hartford Court Chardonnay Fog Dance Vineyard delivers apple pie, pear tart and marzipan aromas with touches of baking bread and coriander seed. Medium-bodied, the palate is very finely crafted with elegant mineral and understated apple and pear flavors with a lively acid line, finishing on a mineral note.

The 2015 Chardonnay Stone Côte Vineyard comes from a block of Chardonnay within the well-known Durell Vineyard. It is fermented with indigenous yeast (as are all the Chardonnays) and kept in barrel 16-17 months before being bottled with absolutely no fining or filtering. The 2015 Stone Côte offers plenty of citrus oil, white flowers, crushed rock, and some tropical mango and pineapple. Lush, with great acidity, the very low yields of this vintage have added to its level of concentration. Anticipated maturity: now-2023.

The 2014 Chardonnay Far Coast Vineyard comes across like a grand cru Chevalier-Montrachet from France. Great minerality, loads of citrus oil, apple blossom, white peach and tangerine notes are all present in this wine aged in 35% new French oak. The wine has stunning concentration, a broad, savory palate, a full body and notes of tropical fruit emerge with further aging. This is another relatively small cuvée of about 12+ barrels of wine, or 310 cases. Drink it over the next 5-7 years.

A barrel sample, the 2016 Hartford Zinfandel Highwire Vineyard is deep garnet-purple in color, featuring baked red and black plums, stewed cherries and rhubarb pie with hints of hoisin, Chinese five spice and potpourri. Full-bodied and packed with spiced berry preserves layers, it has a chewy frame and a long, perfumed finish.

A barrel sample, the 2016 Hartford Zinfandel Dina's Vineyard is deep garnet-purple in color, delivering Christmas cake, plum pudding and preserved plums notes with hints of crushed rocks, forest floor and blueberry pie. Big, full, rich and very refreshing in the mouth, it has a pleasantly chewy texture and tons of dried berries and spice cake layers, finishing very long.

The energy and focus of this wine is excellent with blackberry, salt, chalk and stone aromas and flavors. Some tar, too. It’s medium-to full-bodied with fine, firm tannins and a long, flavorful finish.

Bordeaux 2019: Full Scores and Notes, 1,000 Wines TastedThis is a very intense, focused red with blackberry and spice character. I am impressed with the polished tannins and flavorful finish. One of the best I have seen from here for a while.

Italy’s Incredible Year: About 6,400 Wines Rated This shows excellent potential with currant, blackberry and tar aromas and flavors. Full body. Round and chewy tannins.

Bright medium ruby. Kirsch, mocha and brown spices on the nose. Large-scaled, rich, sweet and powerful; can't quite match the nuance of La Joie but boasts powerful medicinal reserve. Today this is almost more Pauillac in style than La Joie, no doubt due to its sizable and very firm Cabernet Franc component. Finishes classically dry, with explosive black cherry fruit. All three of these Verité wines possess terrific energy, but this one is the most backward of the trio.

The Capensis 2022 Chardonnay is sourced from approximately 60% estate fruit in
Stellenbosch, with the balance drawn from carefully selected Western Cape vineyards. It
shows a golden hue with brilliant intensity and striking precision. Winemaker Graham
Weerts emphasizes refinement in both picking decisions and vinification. It is 100% barrelfermented, delivering remarkable brightness and focus. A subtle saline note emerges
alongside the clear Stellenbosch fruit signature, shaped by the region’s proximity to the
ocean, which slows ripening and lends an added layer of freshness alongside preserved
lemon and yellow apples.

The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Rockfall Vineyard is tight as a whip and wound up like a ball of rubber bands. Today, it's all brawny mountain tannin and virile intensity, amplified by the conditions of the drought year. The 2021 only hesitantly reveals shades of blue fruit, crushed rocks and wild herbs. I wouldn't dream of touching a bottle any time soon. Your best bet would be to lose this in the cellar for ten years, but based on the 2016 tasted alongside, your patience will be handsomely rewarded.

The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Christopher's Vineyard wears its high-elevation origins on its sleeve. Sourced from an estate vineyard on red volcanic soils at 2,400 feet of elevation, the 2021 is a muscular, chiseled, deeply mineral expression of Sonoma Cabernet. It opens gradually on the palate, yielding every so slightly unleash shades of eucalyptus, graphite, gravel, cocoa powder and blackcurrant. Sizzling acids emerge on the finish. The 2021 will need several years to give up the goods, but it will be worth the wait.

The 2023 Pinot Noir Seascape Vineyard is loaded with coastal character, reflecting savory, marine-like undertones in a structured, intensely concentrated framework. Blood orange, violet and dark berry fruit open first before building layers of earthy, slightly damp forest floor nuances. Fine tannins grip the focused finish. The 2023 is a little tight today, but time in bottle will help it relax its shoulders.

The 2023 Pinot Noir Arrendell Vineyard is a very classy wine that channels everything great about the Russian River Valley. Black tea and crushed raspberry notes open first, delving into savory, earthy undercurrents that resonate with white pepper and bitter spices. There’s a certain sense of classicism to the Arrendell that really amps up the charm. It’s also another wine in this range that will be meaningfully better and more relaxed after a few years in the cellar.

The 2022 Chardonnay La Crête was matured for 16 months in new and used French oak puncheons and barrels. It has slowly unfurling scents of white peach, lemon peel, raw almonds, beeswax and freshly baked bread. The medium-bodied palate has a silky texture and balances soft, creamy flavors with vibrant acidity that adds a shimmery feel. It has a very long, honeyed finish and should be long lived in the cellar. 105 cases were made.

The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Monolith was matured for 20 months in 44% new French oak. It has intense aromas of boysenberry, violet, cigar box, iron, aniseed and graphite. The full-bodied palate is powerfully styled with generous, mineral-laced flavors and muscular, grainy tannins. It’s balanced by vibrant acidity, and it has a long, floral finish. It should be long lived in the cellar. 369 cases were made.

The 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Dakota matured for 15 months in 85% new French oak. It has slowly unfurling aromas of blackcurrant, blueberry, lilac, tobacco and iron, plus seamlessly integrated new-oak spice. The full-bodied palate is much more open at this stage, offering detailed flavors ranging from dark fruit to floral perfume. It’s structured by velvety tannins and mouthwatering acidity and has a long, latent finish. It will benefit from several years in the cellar.

The Sexton vineyard was planted in 1997. It’s a north-facing, exposed site, at 200 metres above sea level. Red fruit, aspects of saucy oak, figs and graphite, smoke. Chester described this wine as “grenache adjacent” and that’s as apt a call as you’ll hear. It has that cloves-tucked-into-raspberry-into-smoke-into-iron persona. It feels compact, it tastes delicious, and it has good weight and length, the latter featuring a keen smoked peppercorn aspect. Love the feel and the profile of this.

Tarraford is the lowest and theoretically the warmest of Giant Steps single vineyard site. This vineyard is, to quote winemaker Mel Chester, “tucked into a glade in Tarrawarra”.

Straight out of the gate this looked really beautiful. “We’re leaning into the breadth of 2024 with this wine, and into the personality of the vineyard”. Almond, pears, peaches, citrus, flowers and spice but it’s the juicy flow of it, so well seasoned. Umumi savouriness on the finish. Chester used the word opulent and that’s the word. I would jump this now; it wants to roll right now. When I came back to this maybe 45 minutes later all it had done was continue to blossom and pillow. Gorgeous wine