The ironstone that dominates a portion of Yangarra's estate vineyard asserts itself with brawny muscle in this deeply coloured, intense Shiraz. Despite 25% whole bunch in the ferment, the perfume is a dark, smouldering shroud of blackberry, laced with high notes of wild fennel and violets. The palate is linear and precise – partly a reflection of the site, partly the finesse that comes from gentle treatment in the winery – resulting in a big-framed wine that steps lightly on its toes.

Wombat Creek again proves a winner in the range of single-vineyard Chardonnays from this top Yarra Valley producer. It's the highest elevation, grown on volcanic loam soils, and shimmers with a mineral complexity like sunbaked clay, lightly toasted hazelnuts and high-toned lemon zest. Butterscotch notes appear as it warms in glass. In the mouth, an unforced, lemony acidity bounces on the tongue. A well-structured wine with great depth, length and purity. Drink now–2030.

Aromatic and generous, with notes of pineapple upside-down cake, ripe and fleshy peaches as well as a whiff of salted butterscotch. Vibrant, crisp acidity keeps the flavors balanced and focused. Long, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2030.

It takes a dedicated winemaker to work with the notoriously erratic Roussanne, but Pete Fraser nails it. A vibrant honey color, the nose is rich and savory, like crème brulée, amaretto, seashell, raw beeswax and damp hay, with gentle stone and citrus fruit at the back. The palate is an exercise in balance between texture and acidity, both locked in a beautiful dance. A little more flavor depth wouldn't hurt here, but overall this is top example of Roussanne.

Quenching in acid-driven flavors of Meyer lemon, tangerine and grapefruit, this is a lovely, bright, light and complex wine of great structure and refinement. A lasting note of wet stone adds to the beautiful texture.

Exploding with spicy, earthy notes from the glass, this Pinot Noir from Greg Brewer is a sensory delight. Red and black spiced cherry, wild strawberry, sassafras, black tea, and green olive juice notes are all present. Greg doesn’t use any new oak on his wines, but it’s never needed and what you get is the pure expression of the grape and the Sta. Rita Hills terroir. Medium tannins, high acidity, and a medium body complete the wine’s lengthy finish.

Blends tension with fresh and lovely fruit, such as raspberry and blueberry. Draws in accents of black tea, forest floor and dusky spice as this builds richness toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2030.

Strawberries and black cherries with stones and flowers. Medium body, firm and round tannins and a stone and mineral aftertaste to the fruit. Tight at the end. Drink after 2024.

Wells Guthrie has been working with Yorkville Highlands fruit sources for more than a decade, and has passed his confident hand onto Ryan Zepaltas, who’s made the wines since 2017. This wine is dark with leathery reduction when first poured, becoming more floral with air. The flavors of plum and carob are dark and brooding, but the texture is impossibly seductive, fine and silky, invigorating in its juicy succulence, the tannins so silky they feel almost cool to the touch.

This is very steely and fresh with crushed-stone and lemon-rind undertones. Praline, too. Medium-bodied, linear and bright. About 40% malo. Mostly Carneros and Coombsville fruit. Excellent value for this quality. Drink or hold.

Gorgeous aromas of blackberries and fresh herbs, such as lavender and sage. Bay leaf, too. Full-bodied with round, juicy tannins and a creamy and dusty finish. Hints of dried bay leaf and a dusty-wood undertone. Very drinkable now, but a year or two will improve it.

Blackcurrant and bay-leaf aromas with some licorice follow through to a medium to full body with dusty tannins and a juicy, savory finish. Creamy and lightly chewy tannins. Drink or hold.

Aromas of blackcurrants, spearmint, licorice and lead pencil follow through to a medium body with firm tannins and a fresh finish. Hints of chocolate and almonds. Really polished. Very drinkable now, but will age beautifully.

Smooth aromas of black cherry, cola and root beer are evident inside the nose of this lush bottling. The palate is thick and viscous while soft and comforting, offering dark cherry, boysenberry, star anise and cardamom flavors in an opulent yet balance manner.

Elegant and smoothly integrated aromas of black cherry, star anise, clove and vanilla converge on the nose of this bottling. Polished tannins peel back on the palate to reveal waves of charcuterie, roasted meat, tart pomegranate and chai-spice flavors. It’s complex while cohesive.

Lively, floral and broadly structured, this impressive mountain-grown wine showcases the producer’s mountain estate. Powerful and lengthy in apple butter, wet stone and honeysuckle, it holds its oak well, adding flecks of nutmeg and clove.

The 2019 Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills is scented of toasty yellow apples, roasted almonds, honey and saline. The palate is satiny and seamless, with bright acidity and rich, honeyed fruits, finishing with impressive texture and length.

From grapes grown between 400 and 1,800-feet elevation, this impressive white overdelivers on its price point, showcasing the beauty of the site. Graham cracker, honeycomb and stone fruit contribute to a rich midpalate of complex concentration and length, finishing balanced and bright in underlying acidity.

This wine demonstrates the tightrope walk of power and elegance at which winemaker Pete Fraser is so adept. An aromatic wine, there’s an appealing perfume of brambly red and blueberry fruit, licorice, winter-warming spices and a dusty, umami-like bass note. The palate is exquisitely balanced, the fruit and savory spice woven into wellgroomed tannins. Textural and powerful yet fresh and approachable. Drink now–2032.

This wine pops with fleshy red fruit, white pepper and woodsy, sap characters. The palate is round and primary-fruit driven, but it hints at depth and complexity yet to come. The juicy berries are woven through with chalky, savory tannins and spicy and sap linger on the finish. Drink now–2030.

This vineyard sits on red basalt soils. As the springtime name implies, it’s the most delicate of the lot. An enticing cherryjuice hue, it’s vibrant, bursting with primary redberry fruit and backed by gentle spice and driedfloral aromas. The palate is medium weight, but fills the mouth with more plump, juicy berries. There’s length and elegance here, and tannins are fine and well-placed, but this is a fruit show at the moment: Those more complex meaty aromas will need another few years before they show up to the party.

Richly flavored but light on its feet. Finely textured, tart and dry with lingering notes of cherry cola, black plum, bay leaf, cedar and cinnamon.

Brilliant ruby. Powerful, spice-accented black raspberry, cherry cola and floral scents are complicated by subtle licorice and vanilla notes. Appealingly sweet and expansive on the palate, offering juicy red and dark berry and spicecake flavors that pick up a hint of cocoa powder on the back half. Round, well-knit tannins frame the impressively persistent finish, which leaves behind red berry liqueur and mocha notes.

Brilliant violet. An expansive, spice-tinged bouquet evokes ripe red and blue fruits, cola, licorice and mocha, and a smoky mineral topnote emerges with air. Broad and fleshy in the mouth, offering sappy blueberry, raspberry preserve, vanilla and fruitcake flavors supported by a spine of juicy acidity. Smoothly blends depth and energy and shows fine definition and floral lift on an impressively long finish that features rounded tannins and a resonating blue fruit note.

Glistening ruby. Pungent, spice- and smoke-accented cherry cola and black raspberry scents convey a sexy potpourri quality. Silky and expansive in the mouth, offering sappy red and dark fruit preserve, candied rose, vanilla and spicecake flavors that smoothly meld depth and vivacity. Finishes very long and juicy, with velvety tannins framing resonating cherry, floral and exotic spice notes.