Two proprietary blocks contribute, later and earlier ripening. Hand picked, basket pressed and fermented spontaneously in French oak puncheons (25% new). Sea spray, rooibos, quince and lemon pith. Stone fruits tucked amidst the fray. A fine, textural, forceful and filigreed finish, marked by a burst of fruit weight.

An excellent GSM thanks to maker Pete Fraser's erudition when it comes to the Rhône. A spice rub of complexity galvanises the fruit, without overwhelming it. The overall effect is one of freshness, detail, pangs for the Mediterranean and a delicious, full-weighted and savoury gulpability rather than the norm of pulpy, sweet fruit. Charcuterie, clove, thyme, rosemary, ume, turmeric, raspberry, sandalwood and scrub. A wonderful spread of umami warmth across the nourishing finish. An enticing day-to-day proposition.

Very deep red/purple colour. Intense and very ripe aromas of angelica, ginger, spices and almost medicinal undertones. Full-bodied and quite high in tannin. Deep-set spices, too, as well as richer, riper nuances. Good density and fleshy extract with lashings of soft, supple tannins. Serious wine; needs time.

The Mt. Brave similarly takes a lot of time to really come out of its shell. The modestly boastful nose includes black cherry, muddled strawberry, black licorice, mulling spice, and black plum. Full bodied with broad, lush, and finely grained tannins and juicy acid, the youthful structure and significant chew and depth indicates a long positive evolution ahead. Flavors include salty plum, cigar tobacco, dark cherry, blackberry, tar, and cassis. Far too young to fully enjoy right now, I wouldn’t touch this until at least 2026 and can easily see it reaching the height of its evolution around 2030.

A glossy, vanilla-and-spiced oak sentinel stands guard over this Cab-Shiraz blend from a top McLaren Vale vineyard. It’s not wholly intrusive, but it makes itself known, as do the characteristics of supple dark berry fruit and chocolate with undertones of mint and spice. The palate is equally rich and broad shouldered, with plump, concentrated fruit and spicy, powerful but well-placed tannins. An infant now, it should age gracefully and slowly. Drink 2024 until well into the 2030s.

This single vineyard beauty, from a restrained and acid-driven Chardonnay vintage in the Yarra Valley, leads with reductive flint and nut characters. They’re woven in with more delicate aromas like stone fruit, waxy lemon, white spice, orchard blossoms and wet stones. Toasty oak is there too, but it’s well tucked. The mouthfeel is beautifully balanced, with prickly, citrusy acidity and supportive oak. Precise yet still characterful, this is an excellent, food friendly example of modern Aussie Chard. Drink now–2032.

A juicy and savory red with white pepper, dried meat and dark fruits. Fresh and vivid. Medium to full body. Tensioned, tight and fresh finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

This feels so youthful and vibrant with aromas of chamomile, green apples, flint and pineapples. Medium-bodied, with beautiful minerality and freshness. Barely ageing. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

A lovely nose of lemon curd, chamomile and crushed thyme. Medium-bodied with silky texture. Bright acidity and fresh citrus fruit wash over the palate. Taut and crisp. Refreshing tannins at the finish. Tropical fruit such as pineapple. From organically grown grapes. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink now. Screw cap.

The aromas of honeydew melon and lemons are beautiful here, with a touch of floral from lilacs. Medium to full body with a creamy texture and a complex salty, white pepper and green mango after taste. Bitter lemon, too. Made in ceramic vessels. No wood. 73% grenache blanc and 27% roussane. Drink now. Screw cap.

This has seductive aromas of plums, nutmeg, iodine and cocoa. Polished and delicious, with a medium to full body and firm, fine tannins. Polished and classy. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Aromas of crushed plums, blackberries, ground clove and grilled rosemary. Forest. Mushroom. Bark. Leafy. Full-bodied with slightly chewy tannins. Lovely density and concentration here with the fruit remaining fresh and succulent throughout. Subtle, but complex spice and herbs as well. Delicious. Best after 2025. Screw cap.

A beautiful cool climate chardonnay with cooked apples, lemons and lime aromas and plenty of flint. Lovely marriage of creaminess and very elegant acidity. Long silky finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

This Yarra Valley chardonnay marries creaminess and lemony freshness with a flinty tension giving it a wonderful energy on the focused full-bodied palate. Positive tannins anchor it at the long, positively dry finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Ray Guerin planted the Applejack Vineyard in 1997, and Sexton purchased it in 2013. The vines face northeast on a hillside in the Upper Yarra, yielding a sunny wine that feels open, even as there's a tight-fleshed coolness to its bright cherry fruit. That contrast plays out in a delicate, lightly voluptuous pinot, a textural pleasure that lasts on fragrance. Beautiful to drink now, this should age with grace.

Pure and focused, with a laser beam of lemon meringue, fleshy mandarin orange and orange sherbet showing incredible intensity and concentration. This remains light on its feet and focused, thanks to fresh acidity, with details of matcha and dried apricot for extra dimension on the finish. Drink now through 2027.

Burgundian-like reduction of crushed stone and oyster shell – a certain flinty character Weerts says comes from a special site in Barrydale. Then, layers of limey, austere citrus, steel and crushed chalk. The palate is unwaveringly driven, with a tight linear acidity complemented by a skeleton of oak spice that tapers into a dry, crisp finish. 14%

Fragrant lemon balm, flowers and white citrus mark out the nose. There’s an inherent joy to this wine. On entry, a vibrant twist of freshly squeezed lime, then the freshness of nectarine stone fruits along with a compelling chalky texture and a properly mouthwatering line of saline acid. 14%

Aromas of yuzu pith, orange peel, light mint and a focused dairy element invite the nose deep into this complex bottling. The palate grips with stunning intensity, taking the wine through a citrus maze of lime, lemon and grapefruit as that underlying earth and dairy quality adds depth.

This appellation blend is even more compelling than some of this vintage’s single-block expressions. Aromas of lemon peel, apricot, chamomile, mint, yogurt and seashore make for a dynamic nose. The palate is lined with a minty shiso leaf flavor that carries through the lemon-confit core, with tart freshness that enlivens the mouth.

This brand’s familiarly juicy red-fruit aromas of candied pomegranate, red cherry and strawberry lure the nose deep into this bottling, which also offers red spice and light herb. The palate is fresh, fun and delightful, with snappy red-fruit
flavors as well as more complex notes of lemon rind and rooibos tea.

Ripe cherry aromas with underlying hints of herb and mace are fresh and fun on the nose of this appellation expression. The delicious palate offers baked strawberry compote, dark mint cream and concentrated hibiscus flavors.

Inky purple. Ripe black and blue fruit, floral and spice qualities on the deeply perfumed nose; incense and smoky mineral nuances emerge as the wine opens up. Sweet and expansive on the palate, offering concentrated cassis, cherry preserve, blueberry and violet pastille flavors given spicy bite by a jolt of cracked pepper. Youthfully firm tannins add grip to a very long, chewy finish that leaves spice and dark fruit liqueur notes behind.

Dark, vivid magenta. Vibrant, spice-tinged red and blue fruit and floral scents show fine detail and mineral lift. Juicy and energetic in style, offering appealingly sweet Chambord and boysenberry flavors that deepen steadily with aeration. Smooth, slowly emerging tannins add shape to a very long, spicy finish that strongly echoes the berry notes.

Saturated violet. A complex bouquet evokes spice-accented red and blue fruits, pungent flowers, vanilla and exotic spices, and a smoky mineral flourish emerges with aeration. Juicy and well-concentrated but lithe as well, offering appealingly sweet black raspberry, cherry and mulberry flavors underscored by a vein of zesty acidity. Shows fine definition and spicy lift on the youthfully tannic finish, which strongly echoes the blue fruit and floral notes.