Pale to medium ruby-purple colored, the 2016 Pinot Noir Ewald Vineyard exudes wonderfully fragrant lilac and kirsch notes, accented by scents of cinnamon toast, raspberry pie and dried Provence herbs. Medium to full-bodied with a taut line of grainy tannins and oodles of freshness, it has wonderful intensity and depth with a long perfumed finish.
A field blend of over a dozen different clonal selections, picked as one lot, the 2015 Pinot Noir Saralee’s Vineyard has a deep ruby-purple color and is a little closed to begin, offering delicate tree bark, moss, mulberries and dusty soil earth notes that, with a bit of coaxing, open into baking spice and kirsch notes. The rich, concentrated, medium to full-bodied palate is very structured, with firm, grainy tannins and refreshing acidity supporting the taut fruit, finishing long with a menthol lift.
USA, Oregon: 2016 Vintage – Part Two "In 2016 we had access to vineyard sites that came with the purchase by Jackson Family Wines," Lynn Penner-Ash explains. "Those sites brought some freshness to the wines. They are fresher and livelier than what we saw from the other warm vintages." She also notes that the oak usage dropped quite a bit in 2016, down to about 19% -23% from 20%-40%. Pale to medium ruby-purple in color, the 2016 Pinot Noir opens with just the slightest touch of gunflint-like reduction on the nose, giving way to red cherries, cranberries and warm raspberry with underlying suggestions of pink peppercorn and flowers. Light to medium-bodied, it gives up great layers of warm red and blue fruits with earthy accents of forest floor, wet earth and bark. It's structured by fine-grained tannins and great juicy acidity carrying the long fruit-forward finish. This is youthfully coiled but should blossom beautifully.
USA, Oregon: 2016 Vintage – Part Two The 2015 Pinot Noir Zena Crown Vineyard is pale to medium ruby-purple in color with an elegant, perfumed nose of wild blackberries, new leather, pipe tobacco and undergrowth plus notes of cardamom and garrigue. Light to medium-bodied and silky in the mouth, it offers great black and blue fruits framed with spice and earthy accents, held together with firm, plush tannins and juicy acidity and finishing long and packed with wonderful layers.
USA, Oregon: 2016 Vintage – Part Two "In 2015 we really tried to focus on earlier picking instead of acidulation," says Lynn Penner-Ash. "2015 has a life to it, a brightness." Pale to medium ruby-purple in color, the 2015 Pinot Noir has a gorgeous nose of violet and rose petal over a core of warm red and black cherries, baked cranberries, pink peppercorn, Bergamot and an exotic hint of saltiness. Light to medium-bodied, it has wonderful layers of red and black fruits in the mouth with a strong line of spice—cardamom, nutmeg, hints of pepper—plus notes of autumn leaves and dusty earth. It’s got supple, grainy tannins and wonderful juicy acidity carrying the layered finish.
USA, Oregon: 2016 Vintage – Part Two The 2015 Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard is pale to medium ruby-purple in color and youthfully shy on the nose, giving way to garrigue and pepper over a core of macerated black cherries, black licorice and bramble berry with floral perfume in the background. Light to medium-bodied, the palate sings with dark fruits, warm earth, wet leaves and floral perfume with notes of baking spice. It's held together with plush, grainy tannins and juicy acidity carrying the long, dense finish. This is young and tight but has the stuffing to blossom beautifully.
USA, Oregon: 2016 Vintage – Part Two Pale to medium ruby-purple in color, the 2015 Pinot Noir Pas de Nom is youthfully shy, giving way to spicy notions of cinnamon stick, nutmeg, garrigue and perfume over a core of warm black cherry and blackberry jam plus a suggestion of wet soil. The light to medium-bodied palate is packed full of warm, ripe, dark fruits accented by spice and flowers. It's framed by plush, grainy tannins and wonderful mouthwatering acidity, finishing long and packed with flavor. Yum!
USA, Oregon: 2016 Vintage – Part Two The 2015 Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard is pale to medium ruby-purple in color with a nose of warm blueberries, boysenberry, wild blackberries and warm black cherries plus notes of exotic perfume, violets, lilacs, pink peppercorn, garrigue, and touches of charcuterie—this is very savory and pretty! Light to medium-bodied, the palate is generous with blue and black fruits and spicy touches of pepper, cardamom and cinnamon stick. It has firm, plush, grainy tannins and good freshness to carry the dense finish. Give this a couple years in bottle for it to really show its stuff.
Slightly more reserved than the Carlisle Vineyard, with a more coiled personality, is the 2013 Zinfandel Limerick Lane. This wine shows notes of charcoal, asphalt, pepper, black cherries, blackcurrants, meaty notes, a big spicy, earthy, herbal richness, multi-dimensional mouthfeel and sensational concentration, this wine is 100% Zinfandel and capable of lasting at least another decade.
Another winner, the impressive 2007 Journey Proprietary Red is a blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. An elegant, medium to full-bodied, pure, rich, Bordeaux-styled red, it offers up scents of cedar wood, licorice, smoked herbs, creme de cassis, and background oak.
The tiny cuvee of 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder (132 cases) actually is the only 1998 that needs another 2-3 years of cellaring. It also will probably last 20-25 years, but will it achieve the greatness of the Diamond Mountain or the suppleness of the Rutherford? With a dense purple color, notes of scorched earth, liquid minerals, black fruits, cedar & licorice, this full-bodied, powerful, muscular wine has some tannin to shed,but it is loaded with extract & richness. To reiterate, these are amazing achievements in 1998.
…reveals crème de cassis/mineral aromas, a superb mid-palate, and a full-bodied personality with impressive length and purity. It is not for readers desiring immediate gratification as it requires 4-5 years of cellaring.
The opaque purple-colored '97 Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder (220 cases) from an elevation of 1500 ft., reveals classic crème de cassis/mineral aromas, a superb mid-palate, and a full-bodied peersonality with impressive length & purity. It is not for readers desiring immediate gratification as it requires 4-5 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025.
Softer in the mouth, but full-bodied, dense, and rich, it is an immensely impressive effort.
More mineral, blueberry, plum, & earthy characteristics can be found in the dark puple-colored 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain (700 cases). Softer in the mouth, but full-bodied, dense, and rich, it is an immensely impressive effort. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2020.
The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is a classic Howell Mountain wine built on beams of firm mountain tannins. Purplish fruit, floral notes, mocha, licorice and espresso open up over time. The 2012 is explosive and burly, but it is also at times a bit alcoholic. Still, this is a vivid, expressive wine that speaks to the unique personality of Howell Mountain as seen in the 2012 vintage. I imagine the 2012 will enjoy a long and broad drinking window starting pretty much upon release.
USA, Northern California, Napa Valley: 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages The 2016 Chardonnay opens with a quiet intensity of fresh apples, ripe pears and waxed lemon scents with nuances of baking bread, nutmeg and chopped nuts. Medium-bodied, the palate features great freshness cutting through the intense citrus and apple layers, finishing on a mineral note.
Tasting as if it had just been bottled, the 2001 Stature comes from some remarkable vineyard sites, including the Beckstoffer To-Kalon, Stagecoach and Atlas Peak vineyards. Composed of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot and Malbec, it exhibits beautiful lead pencil shavings, pen ink, blackberry, blueberry, cedar and camphor notes. This full-bodied, moderately tannic 2001 has a long life ahead of it. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2030.
The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Stature, which is a blend of 54% fruit from Alexander Valley and 46% fruit from Knights Valley, is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot aged primarily in French oak. The new oak percentage jumps to 71%, which is the highest of any of these Cabernets. Deep ruby/purple with notes of tobacco leaf, underbrush, blackcurrants, sweet new oak and spice box, this is a full-bodied, ripe, impressively endowed wine that will drink well upon release and continue to evolve for up to 15 or more years.
USA, California, Northern California: Napa & Some Sonoma New Releases Aged ten months in 41% new French oak, the 2016 Jackson Estate Camelot Highlands Chardonnay leaps from the glass with vivacious lemon tart, ripe grapefruit and fresh pineapple scents with hints of struck match, lime cordial, honeysuckle and crème brûlée. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is super intense with vibrant tropical fruit and loads of savory layers plus a pleasantly oily texture and wonderfully long finish.
The Hickinbotham wines tend to combine powerful flavours with (comparatively) modest alcohol levels; i.e. they’re not overdone. There’s a best-selling novel to be written, set in the Australian Wine Industry, titled Power Without Heat. Tannin. Always the tannin. You wouldn’t say there’s a great deal of it here but what there is is ultra fine and steady-as-a-keel. We have blackcurrant and jubey blackberry, redcurrant and malt, a touch of molasses too maybe, but the general feeling is of freshness. It’s more of a 21st than it is a 40th, in human year celebrations, if that makes sense; it has power and strut but it feels eager.
2015 Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard The Revivalist Merlot The vines were planted in 1976 and 1989. The grapes were left on skins for three weeks. It was basket pressed before going into French oak (Bordeaux coopered) for 15 months. It’s a substantial red wine by any measure. Bold berried fruit, bold coffeed oak, bold tannin. It feels integrated, supple and creamy – elegant even – but there’s no missing the weight of flavour, and texture. This isn’t your average Australian merlot. It’s good now but there’s a lot in the tank for the future.
The 2013 Pinot Noir MacLean Block comes from a vineyard east of the town of Occidental and saw 36% new French oak prior to being bottled unfined and unfiltered. This is from Dijon clone 667 and 777 from a relatively high-elevation site that needs plenty of time to ripen fully. About 30% whole-clusters were used in this wine, which is dense ruby/purple with loads of spice, damp earth, forest floor and mushrooms as well as raspberry and black cherry fruit. It should drink well for up to a decade.
The lemon and orange blossom-scented 2007 Chardonnay Seascape Vineyard (an incredibly cold windswept site) offers up copious notes of caramelized citrus, marmalade, crushed rock, and subtle wood, along with high acidity, and impressive layers of concentration. This vineyard is normally harvested in November because it is such a cold, windy zone. All three of these Chardonnays are best drunk in their first 3-4 years of life, although my instincts suggest they will last longer. One of the best wineries in Sonoma, Hartford Family Winery, under the guidance of winemaker Jeff Mangahas, continues to fine tune an impressive portfolio of wines, all from cool climate sites. The three Chardonnays among the current releases are all outstanding.
A dark, meaty wine, the 2014 Zinfandel Highwire Vineyard offers lovely depth and pliancy throughout. Inky blue/purplish fruit, spices, menthol and licorice fill out the wine's broad frame nicely. The Highwire is one of the more massively constituted wines in the range, and will appeal most to readers who like big Zinfandels.