International Chardonnay Day: The best classic and natural white wines to celebrate withThe Yarra Valley, close to Melbourne in Victoria, is one of Australia’ s cool climate regions where pinot noir and chardonnay grapes thrive. From a small producer, this bottle is appropriately subtle and restrained. While the wine is fermented and aged in oak barrels, the richer, buttery style of Australian chardonnay is now discouraged and it does not dominate the rounded, mellow flavours of stone fruits and nectarines and the finish, as with the best chardonnay’s remains crisp and fresh on the palate. A special occasion bottle – try this one with roast loin of pork or as a midweek treat with a mushroom risotto.

A savory, mineral-driven nose tees up a palate of excellent concentration, where crunchy yet still somehow pliant tannins frame flavors of cassis, blackberry and black cherry liqueur, pencil led, and melted chocolate, all spiced with star anise that shimmers through the finish. Great now, and with lots of time left—easily another 15 years or more.

Taut and generous at the same time, with aromas of Chinese five-spice powder, goji berries, and pomegranates before a palate of sweet, generous fruit that’s framed by sweet tannins, all of it dusted with cinnamon, cloves, and allspice. The suggestion of sage smolders in the background, as well as a hint of rosemary and mint. It’s cut through with mouthwatering acidity, making this particularly food-friendly. Enjoy over the next decade…or right now.

Wine of the WeekBright gold with hints of peach and citrus fruit aromas. Well balanced with a core of concentrated fruit flavors and sharp, focused finish.

Ayres introduced the flagship Penner-Ash 2018 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir as the wine that put Willamette Valley on the map. It is sourced from 18 vineyards in nine sub-appellations and is a snapshot of the region.According to Kate, sub-appellations like Dundee Hills add spice tones, while Eola-Amity and Chehalem Hills offer red fruit and texture. Ribbon Ridge to the north gives the blend dark fruit qualities and southerly McMinnville adds white pepper.Aged in 23% new French oak, the Penner-Ash release expressed an earthiness with balanced red and black fruit flavors. A slight sweetness on mid-palate finished with a fresh acidity and savory notes. Tonya spoke of the black fruit and black tea flavors as a perfect pair with grilled salmon.

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Réserve Spéciale may very well be the finest wine I have tasted from Arrowood in this incarnation. Readers will have to be patient with the 2017, as it is a powerhouse. The purity of the flavors is just striking. Sweet red cherry, pomegranate, mocha, spice and cedar all open gradually in the glass. This is a fabulous example of Sonoma Cabernet. Don't miss it, but give the tannins time to soften.

The 2018 Syrah Brosseau is dense, powerful and meaty. Inky dark fruit, gravel, cured meat and dried flowers. A wine of real density and power, the Brosseau Syrah is endowed with massive power and concentration. There is so much to the 2018. This site on decomposed granite with limestone yields wines of tremendous complexity and character. The 2018 is fabulous.

The 2018 Syrah Sea Lift is fabulous. Inky dark fruit, black cherry, plum, chocolate, licorice, spice, sage and menthol build in a powerful, deep Syrah endowed with tremendous character.

The 2018 Syrah Hawkes Butte is once again one of the most distinctive wines in the range. Inky dark fruit, black pepper, sage, lavender and spice all run through this super-expressive Syrah. The 2018 is rich and unctuous but also not at all heavy. It is incredibly singular and full of character.

The 2018 Chardonnay Brosseau, from the famed vineyard in the Chalone AVA, is fabulous. Dried flowers, sage, mint, chamomile and graphite give the Brosseau its distinctly savory, mineral personality. Structure, acid and soil tones dominate this rich, full-bodied Chardonnay, while the fruit is very much in the background.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Stormin' is the most exuberant wine in the range. It shows terrific depth and density, while remaining transparent and light on its feet. Dark red/purplish berry fruit, rose petal, lavender, spice and mint build in this expansive, beautifully expressive Pinot. A dollop of whole clusters (7%) adds a touch of character without being especially evident.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Sealift, from a site in Annapolis, is bold, juicy and so expressive. Red/purplish berry fruit, spice, rose petal and dried herbs are some of the many notes than run through the Sealift. A wine of energy and nuance, the 2018 has so much to offer. A healthy dose of whole clusters add character as well as nuance. This is very nicely done.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Edmeades is gorgeous. The blend of Calera, Swan and Dijon clones on low vigor soils works so well here. Pliant and silky, with striking depth, the 2018 has so much character. Red/bluish-hued fruit, spice, orange peel and mint give the Edmeades an effusive beauty that is impossible to miss. All the elements come together in an Anderson Valley Pinot that hits all the right notes.

The 2018 Chardonnay Sky Crest captures all of the intensity of Anderson Valley. Rich and exuberant, the 2018 possesses terrific depth, with plenty of baked apple tart, pineapple, yellow flowers and tropical character. Even with all of its exuberance, the 2018 retains terrific freshness.

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Smothers-Remick Ridge is another striking wine in this range. Bold and punchy in the glass, with tons of savory/earthy character, the 2017 has a lot going on. Cedar, sweet pipe tobacco, menthol, licorice and wild cherry all run through the 2017. This Sonoma Valley site is one of the most distinctive sites in California, as are the wines.

It would not take long to count the number of still white Pinot Noirs that I have tried (the sparkling ones, naturally, would take a whole lot longer), but this is the second I have tried in as many weeks. Slightly golden straw in the glass with lovely aromas of peach, pear, white acacia, and ginger spice. The palate is deliciously balanced between the subtle fruit and racy acidity. Although the information about this wine is rather scant, I did discover that it spent nine months in neutral oak, which has no doubt softened that tartness just a touch. Lovely wine. Outstanding.

The 2019 White Pinot Noir is a tiny cuvée of just six barrels off a single block on the property. It is Pinot Noir vinified off the skins (like Blanc de Noir in Champagne). Textured and nuanced the White Pinot Noir is aged in neutral oak. Dried orchard fruit, spice and dried flowers are some of the many notes that grace this quirky yet absolutely delicious white.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Unforgettable is built on texture and creaminess. It offers a bit more mid-palate structure than some of the other wines in the range. The mix of mostly Pommard and Wadensvil clones works so well here. Silky and open-knit, the 2018 can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Abel is a pliant, supple wine with lovely mid-palate presence. Succulent red berry fruit, spice, orange peel and mint are all laced together. The 2018 offers a striking balance of energy and depth. There is something incredibly exotic about the 2018 that is quite appealing. The Abel was aged 16 months in barrel.

The 2018 Red Blend Prequel, a Syrah-based blend from vineyards in Sonoma, is a total knockout that makes such a strong statement as to the potential of Sonoma County. Dark, bold and savory, the Prequel offers a fabulous mix of fruit intensity and savoriness.

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Vales Edge is bright, punchy and full of character. This mid-weight Cabernet from a site on the Alexander Valley/Chalk Hill border is effusive and so inviting. Sweet red cherry, spice, mint, sage, blood orange and lavender give the 2017 striking purity and character. Drink it over the next decade.

The 2018 Syrah High Rock Ranch emerges from a site at 1,200 feet in elevation. Bright red berry fruit, iron, dried flowers, chalk, mint and white pepper inform this taut, savory Syrah. There is maybe a bit less body than in some of the other wines, but more than enough persistence to compensate.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Côte Bannie, from site in the Petaluma Gap, shows the wilder side of Pinot. Game, black pepper, iron, licorice, mint and dried flowers give the Côte Bannie a distinctly Syrah-like character. This is an eccentric wine but has just enough fruit depth to balance things out.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Maggy Hawk shows a different side of Anderson Valley. There is lovely savoriness and energy, and maybe a bit less fruit than in some of the other wines. A whole range of floral and spice notes lend complexity as well as persistence.

The 2019 Trousseau Copain Estate is another absolutely exquisite wine in the range. Bright red berry fruit, orange peel, cinnamon, pine and amaro herbs infuse the 2019 with striking aromatic complexity and nuance. Translucent and so expressive, the Trousseau is a winner. The 2019 is a blend of fruit from the Copain estate and a second site in Anderson Valley.