The 2011 Zinfandel Hartford Vineyard boasts gorgeous depth of fruit and pure radiance. Juicy, dark and expressive, the 2011 has tons of palate presence and texture, all while expressing plenty of varietal character and nuance. There is a lot to admire here. Sweet floral notes add a level of brightness that is unusual for an old-vine Zinfandel made from such tiny yields. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2021.

The rare Zinfandel that favors structure and focus over bold flavors yet doesn't sacrifice a rich and zesty character.

The rare Zinfandel that favors structure and focus over bold flavors yet doesn't sacrifice a rich and zesty character. The aromas of wild berry, mineral and fresh fennel lead to flavors of boysenberry, white pepper and dried herb. Drink now through 2020.

The 2011 Zinfandel Dina's Vineyard is another of the more polished wines in this lineup. Juicy dark cherries, plums, menthol, violets and new leather all take shape in this sensual, layered Zinfandel. This Dina's is arguably the most complete wine in the range of 2011 Zinfandels. It should drink well pretty much right out of the gate, but also clearly has the potential to improve in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2021.

The 2010 Zinfandel Highwire Vineyard is another impressive wine, but here it is the silkiness and graciousness of the tannin that distinguishes the Highwire. The presence of Carigane in this site gives the wine much of its high-toned, floral bouquet. Sweet red berries, flowers, mint and licorice inform the sensual, inviting finish. This is another terrific showing from Hartford. The Highwire is an especially racy, sleek wine. It makes a fascinating contrast to the Dina's as the two sites are essentially next to each other but the field blends are quite different. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022.

The 2009 Zinfandel Old Vine walks a hypothetical path between the complexity, foresty, spicy notes of Pinot Noir and the exuberant, ripe, rich blue and black fruits of Zinfandel. Blackberry, blueberry, black cherry, pepper, spice and forest floor characteristics result in a complex, medium to full-bodied, supple-textured Zinfandel. This gorgeous Zin is already irresistible and should drink nicely for 4-5 years. One of the top Zinfandel specialists in California is Don Hartford at Jess Jackson's Hartford winery. They also produce an impressive portfolio of Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays under the Hartford Court label. These five Zinfandels all come from dry-farmed, low-yielding, old vine Russian River sites.

Glass-staining violet. Deep, floral-accented aromas of blackberry, cassis and cola, with a strong violet pastille quality and a touch of allspice adding interest. Palate-coating dark berry flavors are given spine by fresh acidity and show a seamless, velvety texture. Dense and weighty on the finish, leaving behind a sweet dark berry preserve note. I'd serve this with a strongly seasoned, grilled steak.

Opaque ruby. Explosive aromas of black and blue fruit preserves, cola, licorice and violet, plus an intense spiciness that builds with aeration. Broad, sappy and sweet, with potent blackberry and mulberry flavors lifted by tangy acidity. Ample but in no way heavy, this zinfandel finishes with strong thrust and resonating spiciness.

Inky ruby. Expansive, flamboyant bouquet evokes dark berry preserves, cola, incense and violet, with hints of smoke and fruitcake building with aeration. Lush, creamy and broad, with dense dark fruit and floral flavors enlivened by zesty spices. Very rich but almost shockingly lithe, with intense finishing spiciness and repeating florality.

Glass-staining ruby. Exotically perfumed nose evokes blackcurrant, violet, dried rose, iron and apricot pit. Stains the palate with sweet dark berry preserve flavors, picking up licorice, smoky minerals and candied flowers with air. This reminded me of a ripe vintage of Mouton-Rothschild! The finish echoes the sweet dark berry and floral notes and refuses to let up. This sexy wine is drinking well right now. These vines are reportedly 93 years old. (JR)

This gorgeously rich effort reveals a Pinot Noir-like sensitivity along with a seductive, fragrant nose of black raspberries, cherries, spice box, pepper, and earth. In the mouth, it's a flamboyant, seductive, expansive, full-bodied, savory wine with beautifully integrated acidity, wood, alcohol, and tannin. Drink this decadent Zin over the next 5-6 years.

Is a great effort for the price. Made firm various vineyards, all averaging 80 years of age, it exhibits a sexy, up front, raspberry, blackberry, and spice box-scented perfume, huge body, a peppery component, and a large, seductive, luscious finish with no hard edges.

This is another stunning effort revealing copious quantities of boysenberry, blueberry, raspberry, and cherry fruit as well as a striking minerality. Full-bodied and fruit-driven, it is an exquisite Zinfandel to drink over the next 5-7 years.

Exhibits a dark, ruby color, floral, red currant, raspberry, and forest floor scents, medium body, and loads of finesse as well as delicacy. I would love to insert this wine in a tasting of California Pinot Noir. Sadly, there are only 164 cases.

Boasts a deep ruby/purple color along with a sweet bouquet of raspberries, garrigue, kirsch liqueur, and Châteauneuf du Pape-like peppery licorice notes. Full-bodied, ripe, flinty, and elegant, with a French-styled personality, it, too, will drink well for 5-7 years.

From a site planted in 1906, it possesses dramatic fruit in addition to a wonderful perfume of black raspberries intermixed with kirsch, loamy soil, and spice box. Deep, full-bodied, opulent, and elegant, this is another beautifully pure, flashy Zin to consume over the next 5-7 years.

Inky black in color and densely rich on the palate. This is one of the five fine Zins from this winery-plush, silky, sexy and complex, with a broad array of black cherry, plum, cola, coffee, chocolate, spice, and herb flavors. Velvety smooth and long on the finish.

Inky black in color and densely rich on the palate. This is one of the Zins from this winery - plush, silky, sexy, and complex, with a broad array of black cherry, plum, cola, coffee, chocolate, spice, and herb flavors. Velvety smooth and long on the finish. Editors' Choice.

Saturated medium ruby. Roasted blackberry and blueberry, bitter chocolate and black pepper on the nose. Urgent and vinous, with syrupy sweetness of fruit, superb concentration and a strong suggestion of wet slate. Very much like tasting a barrel sample, but with the clarity of flavor of a finished wine. Ends with serious, firm tannins and outstanding lingering sweetness of fruit.

A century ago, when the vineyards used in this wine were planted, immigrant farmers tried to replicate the hearty reds of home. They planted grapes they could ferment together: Zinfandel, Alicante Bouschet, Petite Sirah and Carignan. Don and Jennifer Hartford were only looking for a house when they bought this property in 1991, but they fell in love with old-vine Zin. Winemaker Jeff Stewart made this red from lots not used in the winery's single-vineyard Zins: Hartford, Dina's and Highwire. Stewart used indigenous yeast in small open-top fermentors and aged the wine nine months in French oak, about 40 percent new. Plump and fleshy, with a dense core of focused tannins and lively acidity. Aromas of ripe black raspberry, anise and licorice open to layered, slightly jammy flavors of black cherry, blueberry pie and smoky cracked pepper.

Aromas of ripe raspberry, anise and licorice open to layered, slightly jammy flavors of black cherry, blueberry pie and cracked pepper.

Plump and fleshy, with a dense core of focused tannins and lively acidity. Aromas of ripe black raspberry, anise and licorice open to layered, slightly jammy flavors of black cherry, blueberry pie and smoky cracked pepper.

Plump and fleshy, with a dense core of focused tannins and lively acidity. Aromas of ripe black raspberry, anise and licorice open to layered, slightly jammy flavors of black cherry, blueberry pie and smoky cracked pepper. Drink now through 2024.

The 2013 Zinfandel Russian River Valley is an attractive, boisterous wine to drink now and over the next few years. Dark red cherry, raspberry, spice, and mint inform the juicy finish. The 2013 is gracious, inviting and pretty much impossible to resist.