Apricot, spice, tangerine, sweet spices inform Hartford's 2012 Chardonnay Seascape Vineyard. A rich, layered Chardonnay, the Seascape is deeply marked by the thick-skinned grapes that emerge from this inhospitably cool site. There is a real phenolic quality to the Seascape that adds breadth and pure weight, not to mention considerable personality.

Hartford's 2012 Chardonnay Stone Côte Vineyard is bright, saline and beautifully focused in the glass. Dried pear, spices, orange peel and wild flowers all take shape as the wine shows off its personality. Today, though, the 2012 is a bit raw and not fully formed, but that should be less of an issue once the wine is bottled. The Stone Côte emerges from a parcel in Durrell.

Butter, pastry, almonds, pears and apricots inform Hartford's 2012 Chardonnay Three Jacks Vineyard. The Three Jacks is silky, layered and impeccable from start to finish. It should drink well early.

From the Laguna Ridge sub-region in the Russian River, the 2012 Chardonnay Four Hearts Vineyard comes from the famous Goldridge soils that dominate the best hillside vineyards of this area. Very Corton-Charlemagne-like with lots of wet stone, white currant, quince and caramelized citrus characteristics, this full-bodied white was aged in 38% new oak and was bottled unfined and unfiltered. It came in at 14.5% natural alcohol. The wine possesses terrific acidity, and should age easily for 5-7 years.

The 2010 Chardonnay Four Hearts Vineyards, from Tom Dehlinger's vineyards on Laguna Ridge, displays a lovely combination of intensity of fruit and minerality. All of the elements meld together beautifully in this textured, complete Chardonnay. Lemon peel, mint, flowers and crushed rocks inform the expressive finish. The Four Hearts grows beautifully with time in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.

A blend of top-flight fruit… A dense ruby/purple hue and aromas of blueberries, crushed rocks, white flowers, and spicy oak emerge from this rich, medium to full-bodied, powerful Cabernet Sauvignon. Give it 2-3 more years of bottle age and drink it over the following 15+ years

Charm, Freshness and Vibrancy Looking to establish a quality hierarchy among the four wines as I tasted them, I quickly decided that the 2017 Afleet was my least favorite, because I found it to be big, blunt and beefy — not my preferred style of Pinot Noir. But: it’s fascinating! Perfectly ripe, with aromatics of both black and red fruit, earth, dried herbs, licorice and even blood oranges, it’s creamy-textured, full, and dramatic, with noticeable tannin, and yet glints of freshness and light within. This wine was made using 25 to 30 percent whole cluster fruit, which probably accounts for its freshness of flavor. It’s still on the big side for my taste, but an admirable Pinot Noir.

Charm, Freshness and Vibrancy The 2017 Stormin’ Pinot Noir for me took an early lead out of the gate because I could immediately perceive its depth, freshness and acidity. My opinion of this wine diverges from the winemaker’s notes, which describe it as “rich and assertive” and “dark and brooding.” I perceive the richness, but find freshness of red fruit expression, precision and vibrancy within that richness. I do agree that this wine has a “muscular frame,” but my palate experiences the elements of freshness and vibrancy rather than the weight.

Charm, Freshness and Vibrancy The 2017 Unforgettable is an enigmatic Pinot Noir because it is a big wine and yet it shows elements of freshness and light. Its aromas and flavors are in the ripe black-fruits realm, with cocoa and floral notes. Tannin is noticeable in the wine’s structure, but the fruit balances the tannin, and the tannin balances the alcohol. The pieces come together into a rich, ripe, flavorful Pinot Noir that expresses power without overwhelming you. This wine derives from two blocks and two very different clones — 777 and 2A — vinified separately, which accounts for its duality of expression.

Honey, almonds, tropical fruit, butter, sweet spices, nectarines are all present in the 2011 Chardonnay Camelot Highlands. The 2011 possesses gorgeous inner sweetness and perfume with plenty of body but no excess heaviness. Today, it is compelling. I tasted the 2011 from tank, just prior to bottling.

OC Very unusual mix of marzipan, dry chocolate and blackcurrant. It is quite tannic, but does have some violet scent and sap to lift it. SJE Textbook aromas: blackcurrant with a hint of green pepper. This is a modern and glossy approach to Cab. Fleshy blackcurrants and a firm undertone of cedar. TG Quite a jammy Cab, but still has that cassis and green pepper note, plus soft vanilla oak and grippy tannins.

Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Lovely aromas of peppery cherry, dark rose and earthy loam. The mid weight black cherry core is framed by firm tannins and accented with a compliment of oak. Earthy and savory, with soft acidity, and a remarkably intense and long finish. Will benefit from more time in bottle.

Vivid ruby. Smoky cherry-cola and Indian spice scents show very good energy and focus. Rich but lively, offering intense dark fruit flavors and a brighter note of orange zest. Shows impressive clarity and energy on the finish, which features fine-grained tannins and a late touch of candied rose.

Dark ruby. Pungent, spice-accented aromas and flavors of bitter cherry, cola and Indian spices. Sappy, penetrating and pure, with a note of star anise gaining power with air. Closes on a smoky note, with impressive cling, chewy tannins and persistent sweetness.

Full ruby. Primary dark berry and cherry pit aromas are complicated by notes of lavender and peppery spices. Silky and appealingly sweet, offering vibrant black raspberry and floral pastille flavors and an exotic touch of star anise. Silky tannins make a late appearance and add shape to a smooth, clinging finish.

Vivid ruby. A pungent, exotically perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red fruits, cherry pit, anise, vanilla and medicinal herbs. Sappy, penetrating red currant and cherry compote flavors gain sweetness with air and show a suave, silky texture. A spicy nuance adds lift to the impressively long, sweet finish, which leaves a juicy raspberry note behind.

Vivid ruby. Deep aromas of black raspberry, cherry-cola, minerals and cocoa powder. Concentrated and ripe but tightly wound, with a sappy cherry compote flavor brightened by zesty acidity and slow-building spiciness. Shows very good energy and a mounting floral quality on the finish.

Bright red. Intensely perfumed aromas of fresh strawberry, raspberry, lavender and Asian spices. A bright, juicy and incisive midweight with red berry flavors and complicating floral nuances. Closes with very good clarity and vivacity, leaving a tangy blood orange note behind

Vivid red. A heady, spice-accented bouquet evokes cherry-cola and blackberry, with smoke and floral notes in the background. Dense and chewy in texture, offering potent dark fruit flavors lifted by a touch of white pepper. Shows very good energy on the finish, which leaves sappy dark fruit and cola notes behind.

Bright, green-tinged yellow. Intensely perfumed bouquet evokes dried pear, honeydew, jasmine and chamomile. Spicy and firm on the palate, with bitter lemon and orchard fruit flavors that flesh out with air. A juicy melon nuance emerges in the glass and carries through a long, supple, spice-dominated finish.

Saturated bright ruby. Restrained but pure aromas of blackberry, kirsch and licorice, plus a suggestion of sweet butter. Tightly wound and less giving than the Helena Dakota, showing a strong mineral spine and distinctly cooler, slightly medicinal flavors of black cherry and blackberry. Less generous and sweet than the Helena Dakota, finishing with tougher tannins that still require patience. This may yet merit a higher rating but it's painfully unevolved today.

The 2021 Chardonnay Silene captivates with its Chardonnay essence, complemented by nutty oak, lemon and green apple notes alongside hints of fynbos. Medium to full-bodied, it unfolds on the palate with a subtle kiss of reduction, while the energetic acidity and hints of baking spices linger on the finish. 15,000 bottles were produced.

Sourced from estate sites in Oakville and Calistoga and incorporating purchased fruit as well, there are 11,000 cases of the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, about half the usual volume. Aged in just under 50% new French oak, it easily marries cherries with notes of vanilla and brown sugar. It's full-bodied and concentrated, richly tannic but ripe, with a lingering, dusty finish.

Cerebral and unforced, the 2022 Pinot Noir Wombat Creek Vineyard emerges from one of the highest- elevation vineyards in the Yarra. It opens slowly to reveal sous bois, cinnamon sugar, fruits of the forest and a nice touch if vanillin oak. Lovely forest floor and sour cherry flavors follow, with touches of wintergreen, gently framed by supple tannins. This is pretty and refined, with room to improve.

There are roughly 2,000 cases of the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, which comes from the Red Barn, Bosche, and Sycamore Vineyards. A blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 8% Petit Verdot, this black-fruited, medium to full-bodied, nicely balanced 2019 has plenty of up-front fruit, velvety tannins, and a great finish.