a blend of three vineyard blocks and three clones (114, 828 and Pommard). It has the most linear aroma of the three, a combination of tart cherry, raspberry and pine, fresh and uplifted. The palate speaks of red fruits intermingled with spices and airy forest notes. Truly dry, it nonetheless has great richness in the mouth and a broad, velvety texture -- but then there is the acidity, linear and precise. The effect is that of richness balanced atop a steeple. The lasting impression is vibrancy and purity in the presence of full ripeness of fruit. Ironically, this wine has the highest alcohol of the three, 13 percent.

The 2013 Mount Veeder is a powerful wine, rich in your mouth, fleshy with soft tannins and ripe, dark fruit. Its aromas suggest floral notes and spicy, dark chocolate, with a richness of blueberry fruit. The wine’s flavors are concentrated; blueberry and dark plum mingle with earthy mineral notes for interwoven complexity, and the flavors carry to a really impressive finish that echoes the ripeness of the fruit. Despite its power, this wine is accessible. Its acidity is a light within the darkness of the fruit and it gives the wine a touch of elegance.

The 2013 Spring Mountain to me is all about the interplay of depth and power. Its perfume is captivating, suggesting cedar -- instant gratification for classicists -- with ripe, red fruit and high notes of pine and licorice, as well as unmistakeable floral tones. The wine’s structure is sleek and linear, smooth tannin forming the periphery while silky dark fruit fills in the middle and mineral notes enliven the whole. This is not an explosive wine but one whose power is framed and contained. Mount Veeder is the richer of the two and Spring Mountain is the sleeker.

Today’s selection was already in its (neutral) barrels when Jackson Family Farms purchased Copain Wines in May 2016 for an undisclosed Print price, but I’ll bet that it wasn’t a pittance, since Copain is a highly regarded boutique winery focusing on single-vineyard pinot noir and chardonnay. Under the “Tous Ensemble” designation, however, winemaker Wells Gutherie produces wines blended from a variety of vineyards in broad AVA applications. The Copain Wines Tous Ensemble Pinot Noir 2015, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County, offers a dark ruby hue that shifts to a transparent magenta rim; aromas of spiced and macerated red and black cherries and currants open to notes of pomegranate and cranberry, with hints of underlying leather and loam and a rooty, briery element, as if the wine were steeped in some essential black tea. These aspects segue seamlessly onto the palate, where the wine delivers lovely shape and heft in its satiny texture and liveliness in its energetic acid structure; mildly dusty tannins lend depth and substance through the bright, graphite-flecked finish.

From select barrels, this “no name” reserve takes the signature elements of the winery's Pinots—notably forward, plush berry fruits and a strong whiff of tobacco—and punches them up to the next level. Big, solid, almost chunky with packed flavor, it touches lightly on lifted aromatics, and frames its tannins in dark chocolate.

Brilliant ruby-red. Exotic, highly expressive aromas of blackberry liqueur, Indian spices, cola and pipe tobacco, joined in the glass by a suave floral overtone. Sweet and penetrating on the palate, offering intense dark berry, cherry cola and spicecake flavors given lift and spine by juicy acidity. A distinctly plush, concentrated and seamless Pinot Noir that finishes impressively long and sweet, with lingering dark berry and spice character and velvety tannins sneaking in late.

As with many of the winery's other single-vineyard selections from this vintage, this is strongly scented with fresh tobacco, and brings generous black-cherry fruit to the front and center. The fruit is accented by a wide swath of cola, perhaps Dr. Pepper. The finish continues long, clean and fresh.

Limpid ruby. A complex, deeply perfumed bouquet evokes fresh dark berries, cherry cola and potpourri, and a hint of mocha emerges with aeration. Juicy, expansive black raspberry, bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors stretch out and become sweeter and more lively with air. Shows excellent clarity and breadth on the persistent finish, which is framed by harmonious, slow-mounting tannins. In a decidedly generous style, but this wine doesn't want for vivacity.

Bright ruby. Ripe blackberry, cherry cola and violet pastille aromas are lifted and given focus by a smoky mineral nuance. Suave, alluringly sweet dark berry, cherry liqueur and spicecake flavors develop a touch of vanilla with air. Shows impressive depth and power but vivacity as well, finishing with impressive breadth and length and a late jolt of firming tannins.

Ruby-red. Aromas of blackberry, cherry cola, candied licorice and mocha take on a suave floral element in the glass. Sweet and broad on the palate, offering intense dark berry and violet pastille flavors sweetened by a building note of vanilla. The cola and vanilla notes come back steadily on a very long, penetrating finish that's framed and given grip by smooth, harmonious tannins. For a rich wine, there's quite good energy here.

Deep red. An explosively perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red and blue fruits and pungent flowers, while vanilla, incense and Asian spice notes add complexity. Sweet and expansive in the mouth, offering intense black raspberry, boysenberry and spicecake flavors plus hints of mocha and cola. Finishes sappy and impressively long, featuring excellent energy and lift, smooth tannins and lingering dark berry and floral notes.

Sporting the AVA's classic, concentrated black-cherry fruit, this carries a strong whiff of fresh cut tobacco. Those flavors control the palate, with lemony acids and a light touch of spice.

In this much-celebrated well-ripened vintage, the Shea designate has a pleasingly soft entry. The lush persistent flavors of black-cherry and blackberry fruit are streaked with vanilla, tobacco and cola highlights. Drink now and over the next four to five years.

The wine from this vineyard has a lightly smoky scent, more of the characteristic tobacco aromas, and a flavorful fruit mix of mulberry, blueberry and blackberry. It's spicy and chunky and generous, ready for near-term drinking.

This much-admired vineyard brings exotic scents of ripe black-cherry fruit soaked in Asian spices. The wine is compact and powerful, with strong tannins and a light whiff of tar. Drink 2018 through 2026.

Directly adjoining the famed Shea Vineyard, these grapes bring comparable quality. This is young, grapy and aromatic, with primary aromas focused on black-cherry fruit. There are streaks of licorice and cola, leading into a long, lemony, tobacco-laced finish.

Deep red. Vibrant aromas of spicy red and dark berries are complicated by cola and vanilla notes. Silky and appealingly sweet, offering juicy black raspberry and floral pastille flavors with a touch of toasty oak. Finishes impressively long, sappy and smooth, with sneaky tannins building slowly and adding grip.

Vivid ruby-red. Suave, mineral-accented cherry and black raspberry scents are complemented by suggestions of musky herbs and potpourri. Seamless and concentrated on the palate, offering appealingly sweet dark berry and cherry compote flavors lifted and sharpened by a spine of juicy acidity. Rich yet energetic, finishing with excellent clarity and length and building tannins.