Another beauty is the 2014 Chardonnay Cougar Ridge, which displays lots of honeysuckle, plenty of minerality, some hints of citrus oil, apple blossom, and white peach. It is another full-bodied, beautiful Chardonnay with a subtle dosage of wood. Drink it over the next 6-7 years.

The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon is 75.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc and the rest Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec, aged in 89% new French oak. The wine displays the great fruit that is possible from these two sites owned by the Jacksons. It has an opaque purple color, a big, sweet kiss of crème de cassis and blackberry with a touch of lead pencil shavings, vanilla and incense. It is full-bodied and dense, with moderately high tannins but beautiful sweetness and fruit. Drink it over the next 25-30 years.

One of the brilliant efforts from Hartford Court is the 2015 Pinot Noir Land’s Edge Vineyards. From a site located only four miles from the Pacific Ocean, this wine has a saturated ruby/purple color and a beautiful concentration of blueberry, black raspberry and black cherry, some crushed rock and spring flowers. The terrific fruit on the attack and mid-palate, the full-bodied finish and intensity are all promising in this brilliant effort. Drink it over the next decade.

The 2015 Zinfandel Hartford Vineyard comes from head-trained vines planted over 100 years ago, and they are incredibly low-yielding. The wine was aged in 100% French oak, of which 50% is new, and like all these wines, was bottled unfined and unfiltered. This is a big wine at 15.2% natural alcohol, but there’s not a bit of heat to it. Its flamboyant, dramatic aromatics consist of black fruits, red fruits, licorice, roasted herbs, and smoked game. The wine has fabulous fruit on the attack, is full-bodied, and the red and black fruit combo follows through to a long finish of a good 40+ seconds. This is a stunner to drink over the next 6-10 years.

The 2015 Zinfandel Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard (another century-old parcel in the Russian River) shows tart acids, tangy red and black cherry fruit, notes of roasted meat, crushed pepper, and briary, zesty, classic Zinfandel flavors that tip the scales at 15.5% natural alcohol. This is big, juicy, succulent Zinfandel with great acid. Drink it over the next decade.

As for the 2015s, one can anticipate that these are going to be big, blackberry and blueberry-laced wines, opaque in color, with loads of glycerin. The Helena Dakota will probably inch out the Helena Montana in terms of concentration, length and intensity by a slight degree, but both are mid-90-point wines that should have early drinkability windows because of their sucrosity and supple, sweet tannins, yet be capable of lasting 25-30 or more years. This is an up-and-coming star.

The 2015 Chardonnay Stone Côte Vineyard comes from a block of Chardonnay within the well-known Durell Vineyard. It is fermented with indigenous yeast (as are all the Chardonnays) and kept in barrel 16-17 months before being bottled with absolutely no fining or filtering. The 2015 Stone Côte offers plenty of citrus oil, white flowers, crushed rock, and some tropical mango and pineapple. Lush, with great acidity, the very low yields of this vintage have added to its level of concentration. Anticipated maturity: now-2023.

Another brilliant effort is the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Réserve Spéciale, which actually comes from five vineyard sites in Sonoma (Monte Rosso, Kellogg, Smothers, Sellitto and Lasseter). It’s also 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, barrel selected and blended after 24 months, then aged another 8 months in 45% new French oak. This opaque purple wine has a long pedigree and a history of aging for 25 to 35 or more years, and I don’t see any evidence that has changed, although Kristina Werner is now making the wine rather than Dick Arrowood. This is a big, powerful, classic Cabernet Sauvignon, with loamy soil notes intermixed with unsmoked cigar tobacco, blackcurrants, licorice, and touches of graphite and oak. Full-bodied and muscular, it will be better in 3-4 years and keep for 25-30 years at the very minimum.

The 2014 Stature, which is a Sonoma County (mostly Alexander Valley and Knights Valley) blend representing 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, is dense, concentrated and perfumed with notes of cedar wood, unsmoked cigar tobacco, lavender, blackberry and cassis. There’s also some vanilla from the oak. The wine is full-bodied and concentrated, with sweet tannin and adequate acidity. This wine should drink well for up to 20 or more years.

The 2013 Proprietary Red from Bootleg is a major sleeper of not only the vintage, but in its entire concept. There are just over 8,000 cases of this wine, which has been culled from KJ vineyards on Atlas Peak, Oakville, Mt. Veeder, Rutherford and Spring Mountain. The wine is a blend of 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Petite Sirah, 21% Zinfandel, 12% Merlot, and the rest Malbec and Petit Verdot. That’s like throwing in the entire kitchen sink, but the result is a stunningly delicious, complex, big-time, sexy style of wine with a deep, opaque purple color, a beautiful nose of blackberries and blueberries, with some lavender Provençal herbs, licorice and a touch of espresso. The wine has a fabulous texture, a plush, full-bodied mouthfeel, and beautiful purity and depth. It’s something that could only be made in California, given the blend, but it is off-the-charts in terms of its hedonistic appeal. At the same time, it is complex enough to satisfy the intellectual senses as well. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. A big-time winner.

The 2014 Chardonnay Broken Road (1800-foot elevation) is made from Dijon clones and displays oodles of tropical fruit such as orange, pineapple and apricot marmalade in a deep, rich, crisp, lusty and dramatic style. It is one of the more flamboyant of these Chardonnays out of the gate, and should drink well for up to a decade as well.

As for the Mt. Veeder cuvée, the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Jackson Estate Napa Mountain is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in nearly 50% new French oak as well as a handful of American barrels for 21 months prior to bottling. This is a 25- to 30-year wine from KJ. Inky blue/purple, with notes of blueberries, blackberries, white flowers and cedar wood, the wine hits the palate with some espresso and chocolate. The wine is concentrated, rich, full-bodied and multidimensional. It is a stunner, but very limited in production (521 cases). It should evolve for 20 or more years.

As for the 2014 Pinot Noir MacLean’s Block, this emerges from a gentle east-facing slope east of Occidental. Made from clones 67 and 777, the wine is a stunner, with notes of forest floor, white flowers, black cherries and raspberries. The gorgeous fruit follows through on the medium to full-bodied palate with impressive purity, texture and length. This wine should drink nicely young and keep for at least a decade.

Another saturated ruby/purple wine is the 2014 Pinot Noir Far Coast Vineyard. This comes from a mountain ridge north of Fort Ross at a 1,000-foot elevation. Dense ruby purple, with notes of sassafras, forest floor, red and black cherries, raspberry and underbrush, the wine exhibits medium to full body and terrific texture and length. This is another 10-year Pinot Noir, but should be drinkable during that entire window of opportunity.

The 2014 Pinot Noir Muldune Trail comes from a vineyard at the southern end of the Anderson Valley planted at an elevation of 1,600 feet. Again unfined and unfiltered, this has a dense ruby/plum color that is more saturated than its two predecessors and notes of fresh herbs intermixed with wet gravel, blueberry, raspberry and pomegranate. It is medium-bodied, long, rich, and made from Dijon clones 115 and 777. This is a broad, savory, impressive Pinot Noir to drink over the next decade.

A real whopper is the 2015 Zinfandel Dina’s Vineyard, which comes from vines planted over 100 years ago and tips the scales at a heart-thumping 16.3% natural alcohol. There is a touch of Alicante in the blend with Zinfandel. Notes of pen ink, graphite, licorice, creosote, lavender and pepper along with enormous quantities of blackberry and black cherry fruit soar from the glass of this thick, viscous, heavy-duty, pedal-to-the-metal Zinfandel. It is a Mediterranean-tasting wine that could pass for a Southern Rhône from France in a blind tasting. This wine should drink nicely for 8-10 years, if not longer.

The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Latro from Knights Valley is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 20 months in two-thirds new French oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. This has a touch of roasted Provençal herbs in it, with some white chocolate and terrific blackcurrant intensity intermixed with a hint of graphite. Full-bodied, opulent and flamboyant, this is a beauty to drink over the next 15 or so years.

The 2015 Chardonnay Seascape Vineyard emerges from a ridgetop site west of Occidental, facing Bodega Bay. This is a very cold area, and the result is one of the smaller production cuvées. Big-time tropical fruits such as mango and pineapple followed by orange marmalade and wet rocks are all present in this big, rich, viscous Chardonnay, which has terrific acidity and freshness. These half-dozen Chardonnays are about as good as you can find anywhere in the world and a tribute to the vineyard sites Don Hartford owns as well as the great winemaking of Jeff Stewart.

The 2015 Chardonnay Jennifer’s comes from a windy, cold Sebastopol Hills neighborhood from primarily the old Wente clone. Loads of orange marmalade, white peach and pineapple jump from the glass of this light gold wine, which has great precision and acidity. It is a super-concentrated, fleshy wine with a long, layering finish.

From the first-growth vineyard of Monte Rosso, the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso (again, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 32 months in 4% new oak) is a 30- to 35-year proposition. Inky blue/purple, with notes of underbrush, forest floor, wet gravel, and scorched earth as well as plenty of blackberry and blueberry fruit, this big, masculine, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon is fragrant but structured, dense and built for the long haul. Forget it for another 2-3 years and drink it over the following three decades-plus.

The 2014s are 30-year wines, even in such a supple, easygoing and charming vintage. The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Montana has an opaque purple color, a beautiful nose of graphite, creosote, incense, blackberry and licorice, and maybe a touch of charcoal and earth. The tannins are soft, and there is enormous fruit as well as a deep, full-bodied mouthfeel and some coffee in the finish. It should drink well for 25-30 years.

The 2014 is a beauty, with plenty of finesse, forest floor, floral blueberry notes, silky tannins, medium to full body, high energy, a vibrant mouthfeel, and a long crisp finish with loads of blue and black fruits. It should drink nicely for 15 or more years.

As for the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Cougar Ridge, this is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 20 months in 32% new French oak (which is the lowest amount of new oak for any of these cuvées). This is a broad, deep wine with savory blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, an opaque color like its siblings, terrific purity, and hints of lavender and underbrush. A complex, earthy style of Cabernet with moderate tannin in the finish, this is another 30- to 35-year wine that needs 4-5 years of bottle age.

The 2014 Chardonnay Bear Point comes from a 1,000-foot elevation vineyard and its clonal origin is the Hyde-Wente selection. Loads of crisp pineapple notes intermixed with mango and tangerine oil jump from the glass of this full-bodied Chardonnay, which has terrific acidity and freshness. It should drink well for up to a decade.

Floral, with loads of black raspberry and blueberry fruit, the 2014 Cabernet Franc is 85.5% Cabernet Franc and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 64% new French oak. The flowery characteristics are pure Cabernet Franc, and that follows through to the beautiful texture of the wine, which is deep and intense, but never seems all that heavy (which is why Cabernet Franc is so different from Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon). There is terrific uplift and vibrancy in this wine, which can be drunk now or cellared for another 15 or more years.