As always, it’s about choosing the best parcels of fruit and barrels for this high end wine. It’s seamless. The pristine fruit absorbing the oak, the filigreed tannins, the chalky acidity, everything doing its bit to create a complete picture. While incredibly fresh, its best days are ahead of it.

A shiraz that’s full-bodied and complex yet charming and swoon-worthy all at once. Excellent colour; the generosity of flavor comes through with red and black fruits, some licorice, cinnamon and a dusting of mocha. Freshness, bright acidity, length and beautiful, fine tannins seal the deal.

Renowned throughout Australia, the Hickinbotham estate perched above the floor of McLaren Vale (Valley) is the source of a half dozen fantastic wines. “The Trueman” is not the most expensive, but it is one of my favorites. Beautifully elegant and incredibly long, its uplifts of flavor—cassis, almonds, minerals, and camphor—are mesmerizing and complex. Alive and elegant.

Wine of the Week The Hickinbotham wines being carefully crafted by Charlie Seppelt and American Chris Carpenter in McLaren Vale are hugely impressive. Across the board they are wines of class, style and substance. This quite splendid single-vineyard cabernet sauvignon is all about balance. It was hand-picked, whole berry sorted and open fermented, spending 18 days on skins. Basket-pressed and then matured in new and one-year-old French barriques, it is powerful but sleek. Think blackcurrant, herbal and leafy nuances, soft tannins and seductive length. A classsic "claret" style. One for the long haul but deliciously drinkable now.

Hand-picked, destemmed but whole berries, open-fermented on skins 18 days, basket-pressed, only free-run juice, new and 1yo Bordeaux barrels, aged 15 months. It’s tempting to pour a glass immediately and savour it, for everything from the fruit, cedary oak and tannins to its acidity are in total balance.

Light purple color. Wow, the aromas are fantastic: black cherries, currants, blackberries, loaded with fruit but elegant, too, and backed up with black pepper, bell pepper, iron, chewing tobacco, graphite and dark chocolate. So rich, structured well with serious tannic grip, but the wine maintains an effortless and velvety feel. Rich, plush, bold but not too dense, with roasted plums, currant paste, blackberries, the fruit is yummy but nuanced. Cocoa, graphite, loam, charcoal, grilled herbs and coffee, lots of complex elements here. Beautiful young but burying this wine for a decade and forgetting about it would be a solid move. This blend of 56% Cabernet and 44% Shiraz is sourced from the estate’s oldest vines, planted in 1971.

Exceptionally potent and powerful, initially giving the (false) impression its alcohol is more than 14%. Retasting brings it back into perspective, the two varieties bonded, yet each preserving its varietal integrity and structural architecture. A classic Australian blend of exceptional quality, destined to outlive most who taste it.

Deep, brilliant red/purple colour; youthful. The bouquet is complex and inviting, with lots of savoury aromas, earth, charcuterie, spices, leather and subdued nuances of dark fruits. Some sooty and smoky touches. It's full-bodied and very supple in the mouth, with ample tannins which are smooth as silk. Red fruits rather than black. A delicious wine, superbly balanced and long. Drink 2016 to 2034

Deep crimson-purple; a very complex wine, all the components handled with the skill of a circus juggler, keeping all in the air. Its extreme fragrance and intensity on the palate have a lightness to their touch, with spiced red and black fruits, licorice and fine tannins, oak the (almost) unseen hand.

This is a top example of the classic Australian blend. Cabernet (57%) provides cigar box aromas and elongates the finish, while Shiraz (43%) fills out the midpalate. The combination is full-bodied yet muscular, generous yet firmly structured. Essence of cassis is framed by hints of vanilla and cedar, while the long finish shows off chewy tannins and mouthwatering acids.

'Revivalist' refers to extensive vineyard work on canopy structure, vines planted ?76, hand-picked, destemmed, whole berry sorted, 4-day cold soak, open-fermented, 18 days on skins, basket-pressed, matured for 15 months in Bordeaux-coopered barrels. The bouquet is fragrant and very expressive, the palate opening with an elegant fusion of cassis and French oak, but leaving it to the finish and aftertaste to show its ultimate class, fine-grained tannins adding another dimension.

USA, Northern California, Napa Valley: 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages Medium ruby-purple in color, the 2016 Hartford Court Pinot Noir Far Coast Vineyard reveals a beautifully fruity nose of warm raspberries, preserved cherries and mulberries with hints of red roses, underbrush, wild blueberries and cast iron pan with a touch of truffles. Medium-bodied with a solid frame of very fine-grained tannins, the palate delivers vibrant red and blue fruit layers and a long, perfumed finish.

The 2017s From Sonoma Sourced from a single block in the estate’s Maggie Hawk Vineyard in Anderson Valley, the 2016 Pinot Noir Velvet Sisters spent 16 months in 37% new French oak and, as with all the wines here, was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Bright cherry, red apple, spice box, and some mulberry notes as well as some marine salinity all flow to a medium to full-bodied, beautifully textured, multi-dimensional effort that has ripe tannins and integrated acidity. Give bottles a year and it should be a gem of a wine to enjoy through 2028.

Also from the Green Valley portion of the Russian River Valley, from two separate blocks in the vineyard, the 2015 Pinot Noir MacLean's Block offers ample black cherries, exotic darker fruits, some toasty oak, medium to full body, and a lush, rounded, deep style on the palate. This cuvée sees a touch of whole cluster inclusion and is aged in 29% new French oak. Give this savory, rich, concentrated (masculine even) Pinot Noir a few years and enjoy over the following decade.

From a block growing at high elevation on the extremes of the coast north of Fort Ross, this wine is bright up-front with youthful tannins, its center juicy and densely packed in mocha, coffee and cocoa powder. Soft and structured, the dark cherry and blueberry fruit is dusted in dried herb and lavender.

This is comprised of fruit from two coastal sites, but it does not hold back on flavor or complexity. A juicy entry of spicy red and blue fruit is surrounded by moderate structure and an imprint of rose petal. Lasting in intensity and acidity, it's dotted in citrus and polished tannins.

Medium to deep ruby-purple colored, the 2015 Hartford Court Pinot Noir Seascape Vineyard has a beautiful floral nose of violets and lavender over a core of red currants and red plums plus a waft of dried Provence herbs and peat moss. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is full on packed with dark fruit and earthy/savory layers with grainy tannins and tons of freshness, finishing very long.

Black cherries, currants, forest floor, and beautiful baking spice notes all emerge from the 2015 Pinot Noir Seascape Vineyard. Made mostly from Dijon clone, destemmed and brought up in 26% new barrels, this medium to full-bodied, deep, rich, and gorgeously layered Pinot Noir has rounded, supple tannins, a silky texture, and a great, great finish. It's beautiful now but should keep for a decade.

Coming from a site on the northern end of Anderson Valley, the 2015 Pinot Noir Velvet Sisters (from a mix of Dijon clones) was completely destemmed and spent 16 months in just under 30% new French oak. It has a rich, broad, expansive blue-fruited bouquet of spiced plums, blueberries, vanilla, and dried flowers. One of the richer, more full-bodied, opulent and sexy wines in the lineup, it’s ideal for drinking over the coming decade.

What is usually their finest Pinot Noir hails from Hartford’s oldest vines, planted with the Martini clone in 1975. The 2014 Pinot Noir Arrendell Vineyard is often not picked until after Halloween, as it is one of the coldest vineyards in the Russian River Valley. Its spicy, complex notes of allspice, sassafras, sweet black cherries and Asian plum sauce are exotic, fragrant and intense. The superb fragrance is matched by an exotic, silky, fleshy wine with dark berries (especially ripe raspberries and black cherries), soft tannins, and full body. This is a head-turning “wow” Pinot Noir to drink over the next decade.

As for the 2013 Pinot Noir Fog Dance Vineyard, another cool site from a hillside in Green Valley, this is aged in 37% new French oak and from the Dijon clone 667 and 777. Absolutely prodigious Pinot Noir, with notes of blood orange, rose petals, blueberry and blackcurrant fruit, this is a stunner, with full-bodied texture, great depth, an opaque ruby/purple color and killer concentration and length. This Pinot Noir should age beautifully for at least a decade or more.

Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is flat out gorgeous filled with promising aromas of boysenberry and blackberry preserves with a wild, organic tone. Power to thrill, with a spellbinding core of dark fruits that envelope the palate and linger on the prodigious finish. Despite the fruit heft, the wine is welcoming with refined tannins, juicy acidity and a silky demeanor. A highly unique wine of uncommon provenance.

The 2013 Pinot Noir Velvet Sisters Vineyard (480 cases) comes from the northern end of Anderson Valley and Dijon clones 115, 667, 777 and a clone often seen in Oregon, Pommard. Aged in 37% new oak, this is another compelling, blue-fruited Pinot Noir with notes of spring flowers, blueberries, blackberries, Asian plum sauce and forest floor, in a full-bodied, gorgeously textured and opulent style. This is certainly one of the most sexy of all these Pinot Noirs for drinking now and over the next decade.

An outrageously superb effort, the 2012 Pinot Noir Far Coast Vineyard sees 25% new oak. It offers a flowery, black cherry, forest floor and underbrush-scented bouquet. Deep, full-bodied, stunningly concentrated, pure, rich and expansive on the palate, this knock-out wine should drink well for 10 years.

The 2012 Pinot Noir Hailey’s Block comes from a cold, windy area in Green Valley. In reality, it is a sub-portion of the Arrendell Vineyard. The wine, which sees 44% new French oak, possesses stunning intensity as well as notes of spring flowers, raspberries, wild strawberries and sweet black cherries, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and a broad, savory richness. Drink 2015-2025.