Merlot, like Syrah, has suffered its share of arrows and slings, yet its affable, outgoing aspects are still beloved by many and a careful look at retailers’ shelves will reveal more than a few very fine values...and the very solid, keenly focused (one star) Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Sonoma County 2012 Merlot.

This wine is quite an accomplishment in flavor and complexity given the vintage and the price. From high-altitude vineyards atop the Mayacamas, it delivers peppercorn, herb and fine, well-integrated tannins, with mellow oak. Graphite and cedar also figure into the mix, with a shock of black cherry and cassis weaved within.

Smooth, mellow and balanced with sweet oak, spice and plum; balanced, supple and complex with depth and lovely style.

Whatever the Jackson family does in Santa Maria works quite well, including this wine. The wondrous nose shows chives, exotic pears, mandarin pith, sesame seeds, a touch of smoke and chalky grip. On the palate, flavors recall fried green apple peels, lemon juice, quince, star fruit and lemon pith.

Smooth and rich with velvety texture and lots of ripe berry fruit; deep, elegant and balanced; juicy and long.

Delicious fruit aromas and abundant spices waft up from the glass. The flavors follow suit, with ripe plum, strawberry and cinnamon all well supported by firm acidity and a medium-to-full body. This is a well-rounded wine that’s easy to enjoy.

Nutmeg, allspice and chestnuts provide a warmth and sense of hearth to this robust, full-bodied wine, from a special site in the heart of Santa Rosa. Candied cherry dominates on the palate, the wine bright yet sultry, with a healthy, generous body and length.

This young wine is finding its way, tight and grippy still, with a strong sense of oak and tannin. Leathery and savory, with a suggestion of the rustic, it offers a crispness of black cherry and plum on the finish. Drink now after a slight decanting.

From a vineyard in the foothills of the Mayacamas Range, this shows dramatic ripeness in flashes of alcohol, and plenty of new oak in scents of coffee and smoke, yet there’s clarity of flavor here: tangy black raspberry and cedar tones that provide a center of energy to its roasted edges. The fruit fights mightily, and wins out in the end. Its burly intensity would ease the transition between a porterhouse and a plate of firm cheeses.

Crisp earth and seamless tannin give this wine a sultry softness around a subtle overlay of oak. Black cherry and leather meet in the middle, buoyed by a zest of acidity, medium weight and a lengthy finish.

This effusively fragrant, medium-bodied wine is compelling for its freshness, fruity complexity and subtle spicy, buttery accents. It feels lively and crisp on the palate while still carrying enough depth and richness.

Dark and smooth; roasted meat, spice and blackberry; toasty oak, smooth texture and a long finish.

Smooth and ripe with black cherry and blackberry fruit; a blend of more than seven varieties; lush and seamless with good balance. 50% Merlot, 22% Syrah, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Malbec, 7% Petite Sirah, 3% Carignan and other.

Smooth and bright with juicy, tangy citrus and hints of lemongrass and minerals; lush and balanced, long and fresh.

Smooth and fresh with generous citrus and apple fruit; bright, juicy and balanced.

Polished and well-structured, exhibiting the supple texture you expect in a top Merlot. Features a complex core, with aromas of blackberry and dried herb opening to flavors of black cherry, spice and lead pencil.

Ripe and plush, this is well made for the style. Cherry pie aromas open to lively flavors of jammy raspberry, cinnamon and toasted spice. A crowd-pleaser.

Offers a fleshy, extracted feel, with steeped plum and blackberry fruit carried by loamy tannins. Tobacco and bittersweet cocoa notes fill in on the finish. Good underlying acidity should help this stretch out a bit more with modest cellaring.

Spry and well-balanced, with appealing aromas of currant and tomato leaf and focused flavors of cherry, spiced herb and cedar.

From a rock-star vineyard site, this Pinot is exuberant in raspberry, cherry and cocoa, accented in sweet oak. Structured acidity and toned-down tannins maintain a balance of approachability, though the wine should age beautifully for another 10 years.

Splashes of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon add complexity to this flat-out delicious, stylish Merlot. Generous in plump plum, black raspberry and black cherry fruit, it has a very pleasant herbal quality, moderate oak structure and supple tannins.

The inviting forest floor, cedar, cassis and vanillin oak aromas lead to a fresh, brisk mouthful of beautifully balanced red and dark plum fruit. It favors complexity and refinement over ripeness and bombast - this is a wine you want to drink with steak and lamb, and not as a cocktail.

This is the style of Cabernet Sauvignon that made California famous for that variety. It’s balanced and discreet, with haunting herbal influences that complement the ripe fruit flavors. Not overdone, over extracted or over oaked, the multifaceted flavors of Cabernet come through. It dances on your palate. Murphy-Goode makes a series of more muscular -- and expensive -- single vineyard Cabernets as well for people who are looking for more oomph in their wines. For my money, I’d go with this one because you can appreciate the subtlety the wine offers.

The Arrowood winery lies in Sonoma County, tucked between the Mayacamas and the Sonoma Mountain ranges. Grapes for this wine were sourced from the Sonoma, Knights and Alexander Valleys. The wine has just the right amount of oak – mostly French, 20% new – and is a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon with small amounts of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Look for aromas of blueberry and plum with notes of orchard blossom and dark cherry. The palate adds nuances of baking spice and anise, yielding to a soft and flavorful finish.

The Stonestreet Estate Vineyards occupy 900 acres of the 5,100-acre estate atop the western edge of the Mayacamas Mountains overlooking the Alexander Valley. From the cooler 2011 vintage, the wine offers aromas of black currant and dark cherry with notes of green olive and citrus. On the palate, fruit flavors mingle with firm-textured tannins and finishing notes of caramel, mineral and coffee.