Lemony and toasty, this approachable wine is rich and balanced, its texture soft and the flavors long-lasting, highlighted by a taste of lemon meringue.
This serious red blend puts together a texture firmed up with gripping tannins and acidity, flavors brimming with blackberry and sweet spices and a lingering finish. Too structured to appreciate alone, it will need pairing with roast beef, lasagna, ribs or the like.
Brisk nectarine and just a touch of apple frame the nose, and warmer, expressive flavors of peach make for a perfect poolside beverage.
Mildly sweet and soft-textured, it offers lots of honey and apple flavors. These are backed up by crisp, citrus-like acidity that adds balance and keeps the flavors lively all the way through the finish. It’s very tasty and well-rounded.
Another prodigious effort is the 2012 Pinot Noir Arrendell Vineyard (nearly 300 cases produced), which comes from a site planted with the Martini clone of Pinot Noir in 1975. According to Don Hartford, this vineyard struggles to produce one ton of fruit per acre. This dense ruby/purple-colored 2012 offers up a big, sweet kiss of blackcurrants, black cherries, camphor, forest floor and violets. Round, opulent, full-bodied and lush with stunning purity and texture as well as a multidimensional personality, this unfined, unfiltered beauty can be enjoyed over the next decade.
The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Christopher’s comes from a vineyard planted at 2,400 feet. Another 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, it was aged 21 months in 63% new French oak (486 cases produced). This profound Cabernet boasts an opaque blue/black color as well as a stunning bouquet of barbecue, charcoal embers, blueberry, blackberry and cassis. Long and full-bodied with an inky concentration, great fruit purity and no hard edges, this is a bigger-than-life, stunning Cabernet Sauvignon to drink over the next three decades or more.
There are nearly 1,000 cases of the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Rockfall, which is planted at 2,000-2,200 foot elevation. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, it spent 20 months in 50% new French oak. Deep, full-bodied and powerful with a fabulous bouquet of damp earth, forest floor, black currants, blackberries, licorice and vanilla, it is staggeringly rich, multidimensional, pure and deep with a finish that lasts 45 seconds. This should turn out to be spectacular with a few more years of bottle age, and should keep for 25-30 years.
An outrageously superb effort, the 2012 Pinot Noir Far Coast Vineyard sees 25% new oak. It offers a flowery, black cherry, forest floor and underbrush-scented bouquet. Deep, full-bodied, stunningly concentrated, pure, rich and expansive on the palate, this knock-out wine should drink well for 10 years.
The 2012 Pinot Noir Hailey’s Block comes from a cold, windy area in Green Valley. In reality, it is a sub-portion of the Arrendell Vineyard. The wine, which sees 44% new French oak, possesses stunning intensity as well as notes of spring flowers, raspberries, wild strawberries and sweet black cherries, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and a broad, savory richness. Drink 2015-2025.
The 2012 Proprietary Red Legacy, an 866-case blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot and Cabernet Franc, may turn out to be the finest Legacy ever made. It exhibits terrific intensity along with beautiful notes of plums, blackberries, blueberries, licorice, tobacco leaf and damp earth. Full-bodied, softer, with more velvety tannins than the other Cabernets, it is a plush, drinkable red to consume over the next 15-20 years.
The 2013 Chardonnay Stone Cote Vineyard (572 cases produced) is fashioned from a specific block of vines that Don Hartford farms in the well-known Durell Vineyard. Fermented with indigenous yeast, it exhibits lots of white peach, orange blossom, pear and honeysuckle notes in its medium to full-bodied, gorgeously pure, textured personality. With terrific acidity as well as focus, it should drink well for 10+ years.
There are 336 cases of the 2013 Zinfandel Hartford Vineyard, which comes from vines planted over 100 years ago on the estate vineyard of the Hartford Family Winery. Aged in 100% French oak (35% new), this wine possesses fabulous fruit intensity as well as abundant notes of black raspberries, blackcurrants and cherries intermixed with licorice, earth, vanillin and spice box. Full-bodied and powerful with massive fruit, opulence and a long finish that lasts nearly 40 seconds, this sensational Zinfandel can be drunk over the next 7-8 years.
The 2013 Zinfandel Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard (264 cases produced) was aged in 100% French oak of which 51% was new. This killer Zin includes a dollop of Petite Sirah. Its opaque purple color is accompanied by notes of licorice, incense, blackcurrants and black cherries, bay leaf, spice box, and pepper. This full-bodied stunner should drink well for 7-8 years or longer.
There are 400 cases of the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Jackson Estate Napa Mountain. This is also 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged primarily in French oak, of which 55% was new. This comes from their Veeder Peak Estate Vineyard, a site that has provided some fabulous Cabernet Sauvignons over the years. It needs another 4-5 years of bottle age, but it should last three decades or more. Inky purple with notes of blueberry and black raspberry liqueur, cassis, blackberries, new vanillin from oak and a wet, foresty floor note that’s elaborate and penetrating. This is a very full-bodied, powerful, masculine, multidimensional wine of super intensity and purity. Drink over the next 25-30 years.
The dense purple 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Trace Ridge (400 cases of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Knights Valley and their Kellogg Estate Vineyard) offers up hints of spring flowers, blueberry liqueur, crème de cassis, camphor and wet rocks. It’s mineral-laced on the palate. Displaying a full-bodied mouthfeel, sweet tannin and a long, long finish, this classic, ostentatious Cabernet can be drunk over the next 12-15 years.
The numerous Chardonnay vineyards are planted at 800 to as high as 1,800 feet (in the case of the Gravel Bench, Upper Barn and Broken Road vineyards). All are 100% Chardonnays largely made from the Old Wente clone with a small percentage of the Hyde clone, and are fermented with indigenous yeasts. Almost all of them spend 10-11 months in various percentages of new French oak, ranging from a low of 44% (the Estate Chardonnay) to a high of 100% (the Gravel Bench Chardonnay. The differences between the various cuvées are very subtle as they are all relatively full-bodied, rich, and aromatic with natural textures. As the scores attest, they are far more alike than dissimilar. My favorites include the 2013 Chardonnay Gravel Bench, which reveals amazing texture and richness as well as a honeyed crème brûlée intensity and striking minerality. The same can be said for the 2013 Chardonnay Broken Road as well as the 2013 Chardonnay Upper Barn, a parcel made famous by Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer when they were producing Chardonnay from this site under their Marcassin label. All of these wines are great Chardonnays that combine the best of California ripeness with the minerality, structure and delineation of a French white Burgundy.
The 2013 Chardonnay Red Point possesses notes of caramelized grapefruit, orange and tangerines along with impressive minerality.
The smallest production cuvée is the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Monolith (200 cases), which comes from a vineyard of the same name planted at a 1,750-foot elevation. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon was aged 20 months in 70% new French oak. An opaque purple color is accompanied by notes of charcoal, graphite, blackcurrants, blackberries and background toast, and a full-bodied, powerful, highly extracted mouthfeel with no hard edges or angularity. This 2012 Cabernet is still an infant, but it should evolve beautifully for 20-30 years.
The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Stature, which is a blend of 54% fruit from Alexander Valley and 46% fruit from Knights Valley, is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot aged primarily in French oak. The new oak percentage jumps to 71%, which is the highest of any of these Cabernets. Deep ruby/purple with notes of tobacco leaf, underbrush, blackcurrants, sweet new oak and spice box, this is a full-bodied, ripe, impressively endowed wine that will drink well upon release and continue to evolve for up to 15 or more years.
Other Chardonnays include the more mineral, Meursault-like 2013 Chardonnay Jackson Estate Camelot Highlands from Santa Maria. This shows notes of hazelnuts, caramelized citrus fruit, a hint of match sticks and wet rocks. It is a complex, Burgundian style of Chardonnay that is completely different than the other wines from Kendall-Jackson.
The beautiful perfume of the 2012 Pinot Noir Fog Dance Vineyard offers notes of red and blackcurrants, plums, Asian soy, forest floor and hints of clove and spice. Medium to full-bodied and ripe, this compelling, delicious Pinot can be enjoyed over the next 7-8 years.
The 2012 Pinot Noir Muldune Trail comes from the southern end of Anderson Valley at a 1,600 foot elevation. It exhibits cool-climate blueberry and raspberry fruit, medium body and lots of elegance. It comes across like a sexy, lush, full-bodied Volnay. Drink it over the next decade.
From the Laguna Ridge sub-region of Russian River, the bottled 2013 Chardonnay Four Hearts Vineyard (1,200 cases made) is fashioned from such older Chardonnay clones as the Wente, Sees and Rued. It displays tremendous acidity, wonderful ripeness, a leaner, and a more premier cru Chablis-like style than the Three Jacks and Stone Cote cuvées. It should drink well for 5-7 years.
Another beauty is the 2013 Zinfandel Highwire Vineyard, which comes from century-old vines, half of which are head-pruned and the other half are trained on a trellising system, hence the name. Aged in 50% new French oak, it includes a small percentage of old vine Carignane in the blend. Terrific blackcurrant and kirsch liqueur notes intermixed with loamy soil, pepper, spice and unsmoked cigar tobacco are all present in this big, full-bodied, powerful Zinfandel. It should drink well for 7-8 years.
The 2013 Chardonnay Bear Point possesses a lot of minerality, crushed rock, white currant and quince characteristics.