Sweet, spicy notes of cinnamon, black cherry jam, cold steel, and crushed rocks jump from the glass of the medium ruby-colored 2004 Pinot Noir Sevens Bench Vineyard. Riper than some of its siblings, with sweeter cherry fruit as well as abundant spice, it should be consumed over the next 3-4 years.

Red-ruby color. Dark cherry and strong spice notes on the nose. Juicy and in a distinctly dry style, with the flavors of red berries and cherry showing a very restrained sweetness. Not especially complex, but this should make a flexible bottle at the dinner table. Finishes with slightly dry but light tannins.

88 POINTS 2004 HARTFORD COURT PINOT NOIR HAILEY'S BLOCK The Pinot Noirs include the cold climate 2004 Pinot Noir Hailey's Block from the Green Valley. Made from younger vines from the Arrendell Vineyard, it exhibits a medium ruby color, scents of Allspice, mulberries, sweet and sour cherries, and tart acidity. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. This is one of my favorite vineries for the Burgundian-sytled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs as well as full-throttle Zinfandels (although the 2005s are lighter than usual). Don Hartford and Jess Jackson have incredible access to some fabulous vineyards.

Good bright ruby-red. Slightly medicinal, peppery aromas of black cherry and dark chocolate. Concentrated and creamy-rich in the mouth, but wit a firm edge to the black cherry, forest floor and tea leaf flavors that carries through to the finish. Tiny clusters and berries in these vines yielded less than a ton of fruit per acre.

Moderately saturated amber-tinged red. Expressive but low-toned aromas of currant, tobacco, sassafras and truffle. Fat, sweet and plump, with good stuffing but a faint alcoholic warmth. Shows a lightly medicinal aspect. The finish betrays some heat. This will offer immediate drinkability and should evolve quickly.

Here is a straightforward wine that features sweet cherries and berries and always evokes Pinot's friendlier side. It is consistently focused on well-defined fruit, and it is both smooth and supple without veering to softness. Age will not hurt it, but it is ready to go and should show particularly well with juicy pork roasts or a simple rack of lamb.

Closed off in its tannins for now, this wine gives hints of a foresty Russian River breeze. The fruit needs several years to absorb the black tannin; it could grow to be an impressive wine.

Firm, ripe and marked by plummy cherry and raspberry flavors, this wine combines ripe, rich, supple fruit with firm, structured tannins that turn soft and fleshy.

Red-ruby. Blackberry, cranberry, licorice, fresh herbs and a bit of heat on the nose. Juicy and leanish in the mouth; has sound acidity but could use more pliancy. Tannins turn a bit tough with aeration, but there's also lingering berry flavor.

Musky aromas of spices apple, pear and flowers. Suppler and softer than the Seascape Chardonnay, but with less delineation of flavor. A rather easygoing style but quite dry and firmly minerally on the aftertaste.

The 2015 Chardonnay (Russian River) is a very pretty appellation-level wine. Apricot pit, peach and stone fruit notes abound in a supple, mid-weight Chardonnay that captures plenty of the open-knit style that is typical of the Russian River.

Presents a tasty mix of floral, perfumed apple blossom, pippin apple and pear flavors. Pure and direct. A touch pithy, with a citrus skin texture.

Focused on flinty green apple, pear and light citrus flavors, this is a well-balanced effort. Light oak plays a subtle role in the background.

Focused on flinty green apple, pear and light citrus flavors, this is a well-balanced effort. Light oak plays a subtle role in the background.

Marked by a strong show of citrus, quince, lemon, lime and white peach notes that give this a mouthwatering presence.

This full-bodied, rich and layered version hits most of the high notes, with honey, pear, fig and melon flavors. Features nice acidity and a long, clean finish.

Rich and creamy, without the weight, delivering ripe pear, apple, light toasty oak and honeydew melon notes. Drink now.

Smooth and easy-drinking, with fleshy peach and baked apple notes.

Smooth ripe and round; balanced, fresh and long.

Good pale color. Intriguing aromas of pear, stone fruit, ginger, nutmeg and wet stone. Lively, enticingly sweet flavors of pear and apple. Finishes dry, juicy and persistent.

Good full red. Perfumed aromas of red cherry, raspberry, cola, minerals and rose water. Juicy, lively and firm-edged, with bright red berry flavors of moderate complexity. Finishes a tad tart but not dry. From mostly estate fruit.

Medium red. Spicy raspberry, red cherry, cola and sassafras aromas, with a floral nuance and a slightly roasted quality. Supple, attractive red fruit flavors offer moderate complexity but lovely pinot sweetness.

Still a solid Zinfandel, showing a touch of age in addition to alcohol. Jammy raspberry and toasted spice aromas lead to flavors of blueberry, black tea and anise.—Blind '94/'04 California Zinfandel retrospective (March 2014). Drink now.

Hartford's 2011 Zinfandel has lovely balance and inner perfume. Dark red cherries, plums, tobacco and new leather burst from the glass in an expressive, nuanced wine best suited for drinking over the next few years. This is a serious, entry-level offering. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019.

A solid Zin from a tough vintage. Aromas of boysenberry, herb and mineral lead to plum, dill and anise flavors. A combination of firm acidity and tannins tightens the finish.