At 98 years of age, the vineyard certainly qualifies as old vine, which isn’t the case with all wines so labeled. Who really knows what varieties actually constitute these ancient vineyards, but this wine is certainly rich in Zinfandel character. The wild raspberry and cherry fruits have a briary edge, suggesting the tartness of Dr. Pepper cola, the nettles of summer chamomile and the savoriness of green peppercorn. There’s little question that the wine will age well, but there’s no reason not to drink it now, with proper decanting.

Big, bold, brawny yet strangely elegant, this Zin holds plenty of appeal. The vineyard is 96 years old, giving the wine unusual concentration and complexity. It’s one of the winery’s riper 2011 Zins, massive in wild raspberries, cherries and prunes, with spicy notes of black pepper and a nice touch of smoky oak.

Zinfandel fans will celebrate this powerfully ripe, exuberant wine. It’s classic Russian River Zin, dry, tannic, heady and enormously rich in black currants, raisins, prunes, beef jerky and exotic baking spices. The finish is so fruity, it’s almost sweet, yet is actually quite dry, making it clean and zesty.

This Syrah is so good, it’s crazy to think K-J made 16,000 cases of it and is selling it at this price. It’s dry, tannic and full-bodied, just what you want in a steak-friendly wine, and the amazing flavors range from blackberry and cherry jam through cassis and plums to toast, smoked meat, vanilla, black pepper and dark chocolate.

A blend of several vineyards, this Chardonnay captures the exquisite ripeness and tart acidity of the valley. It’s lush in apricots, oranges, pineapples and honey, with the buttered toast and vanilla of French oak barrels. Sure is tasty for drinking now.

They say the vineyard is over 100 years old. It shows intensely concentrated flavors of wild raspberries, with vanilla, white pepper, sandalwood and exotic baking spice notes. A hint of blueberry marks the finish. Drink this heady, delicious Zin now and until 2019.

The 2012 vintage has been released, but many retailers still offer the 2011, which is showing beautifully right now if you like older Chardonnays. I certainly do, in fact I often find that slightly older vintages of well made California Chardonnay can be more appealing than current releases, which are sometimes jittery and slightly unfocused. What do I like about this wine from Cambria? I love its deep, gold color. I like that it speaks to me in a low, throaty voice rather than in the slightly shriller tones of youth. Its exotic, erotic aroma is thrilling, and the smooth, self-assured wave of flavor entering the mouth is a delight. With its richly defined notes of tropical fruit the wine still manages to be crisp and refreshing on the finish.

The wine is a blend of various vineyards located in the far Sonoma Coast. This origin shows in the brisk acidity, keen minerality and overall bracing structure of this ripe, succulent wine. It brims with wild raspberry and cherry, roasted coconut, white chocolate, anise and toasty oak flavors that last for a full minute into the finish. It’s probably at its best now.

The winery has sourced this wine from their coastal vineyards, which accounts for its acidity and long hangtime raspberry, persimmon and sour-cherry candy flavors. With a silky texture, it’s lovely to drink now.

This bottling is sourced from some of the higher-elevation benchland blocks of the Cambria estate. For all its heady ripeness and new oak polish, it’s got admirable energy: lithe, dark-fruited and persistent. Its concentration would match wild fowl.

The vineyard is in a warmer part of the northern valley, and yet it shows brisk acidity and the cool-climate apricot, lime and white peach flavors of a long hangtime region. It’s a fine Chardonnay, oaky and buttery, and provides pleasant drinking now.

86–88. Barrel Sample. A ripe, full-bodied wine, this is showing dark layers of wood, spice and intense acidity. Dark chocolate flavors give a bitter aftertaste.

Lots of lush, fancy features in this Merlot, although K-J does have to be careful not to price the Vintner’s Reserve line out of affordability. Blended with all the classic Bordeaux varieties, the wine is dry and full-bodied, with blackberry, cherry, violet and plum flavors.

Here’s a basic red wine, full-bodied and dry, with ripe blackberry, cherry, currant and oak flavors. The blend is Merlot-dominated, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.

One of the riper Zins out there, it’s so developed that the cherries and blackberries veer all the way into raisins and even prunes. Along with high alcohol and strong tannins, the wine has a Port-like headiness, without the sweetness.

Put some meat on the grill, slather it with barbecue sauce, and enjoy with this spicy Zin. Medium-bodied, it doesn’t overwhelm the food but complements it, with dry, classically varietal flavors of wild berries, brambly herbs, white pepper and sandalwood.

Sweet black fruit on the nose and palate. Very luscious -- I'd say pluscious. (I'm copyrighting that.) Layers of dark fruit pleasure, caress me softly. Full-bodied right to the end. Great finish. Shiraz food pairings: grilled meats and vegetables, stew, pizza, barbecued beef, bison steak.

Yes, yes, yes! This is what we want from Californian Zinfandel: fleshy dark fruit that's not sweet, just rich. A whiff of pepper, a lick of savoury goodness that in no way dims the vibrant character. There's some restraint and balance in a good way yet this is full-bodied, supple and smooth. Ready to dance with gourmet hamburgers

An impressive syrah with complexity. A range of flavors — black cherry, plum and a kick of cracked black pepper. Edgy.

Deep, bright, youthful, purple colour. Very fresh, primary aroma of banana and dark berries, somewhat raw and unready. It's the same on the palate: full-bodied and grippy, with a certain rawness. Bright acidity. It's firm and tight, and somewhat callow. It needs more time. It's a bit shrill and infantile to drink now.

The Clark Vineyard, in the shadows of the Santa Lucia range in the Arroyo Seco AVA, enjoys a slightly warmer climate than most vineyards in the valley. It is the primary source for fruit used in this all-stainless Chardonnay crafted by winemaker Ivan Giotenov. Look for aromas and flavors of earthy pear and cream with notes of orchard blossom and spicy baked apple.

2011 Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Merlot, Sonoma County: aromas of cedar, flavors of black cherries and mocha, soft tannins, smooth; $28.

Kendall Jackson winemaker Randy Ullom combined fruit from Monterey County for citrus and floral notes, with fruit from vineyards in the Santa Maria benchland in Santa Barbara for structure and richness to create this wine. Several different clones are in play - including the exotic Rued clone - adding yet more complexity. Enjoy this well-balanced Chardonnay for its tropical and citrus aromas and flavors and notes of apple, vanilla and toast on the finish.

Dry, earthy, herbal, and so tightly wound - what a beautiful Pinot. The blast of cherry, plum, vanilla and herbs is Oregon refined and polished to a sparkling gem. This is a powerful, beautiful wine. Acidity makes it lean and mean. Fruit speaks to the highly rated 2012 vintage. It was sourced from 10 vineyards and seven clones from throughout the Willamette Valley and its sub-AVAs, and aged nine months in 100 percent French oak, 25 percent new. Get ahead of local distribution and join the La Crema Wine Club or buy it when it becomes available online at La Crema. It's a whole new taste and style profile for this artisan winemaker.

I liked this wine much more than I thought I would. I was afraid it might be too clean, correct, corporate--and it is all those things, but that doesn't mean it lacks character. With its lacey texture and hints of pineapple the wine may not send you off into a meditative state, but even without causing you to contemplate the complex virtues of Chardonnay you're going to enjoy every sip of Avant paired with unpretentious food such as turkey burgers, spaghetti with white clam sauce, or fish tacos. Or what the heck, just open a bag of potato chips and pour the wine, and you'll be pleased to discover what a satisfying food and wine combo this is.