To get a sense of why people fall in love with Pinot Noir, it's worth spending a little more money. The following wines, made by some of the top winemakers in the state, are all great examples of regional terroir—the distinctive character that comes from a specific soil type and climate. Plus, taken together, they essentially amount to a five-bottle master class in some of California's most significant Pinot Noir regions.

Matanzas Creek's regular sauvignon blanc ($21) is a pretty big wine for the price.

This reputable Sonoma County producer made three different sauvignon blancs in 2012 - all of them excellent. It was fun to taste them side by side to see the difference clones and soil can make. We're a sucker for the musque clone, so this version with 40 percent musque appealed to us the most. There is also a dash of semillon to soften the texture. Lots of citrus and melon notes with a touch of minerality and crisp acidity.

North Coast: hint of oak, aromas and flavors of black cherries and spice, ripe tannins; $22.

Sonoma Coast: aromas and flavors of ripe apples, pears and lemons, spicy finish; $23.

A bit more aged than its mates and delivering more of aged cedary patina from the outset along with a whiff of burnt walnuts, this wine has arrived at its peak and will now begin to dry out over the next four to eight years. It is oaky, briary and oriented to black cherries in its remaining fruit, and it possesses still a fair bit of sturdy structure, but its filling is drifting off and the best course would be to drink it up soon. One star and $24 when first reviewed.

The label doesn't tell us what the blend is, but it's a blend of Syrah, Merlot, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel. The texture is soft, and the flavors are rich and ripe in cherries, currants and spicy, umami teriyaki. Earns an extra point for sheer likeability.

One percent of Semillon is in the blend, but this wine basically highlights classic Sauvignon Blanc notes of citrus and tropical fruits, green apples and pears. There's a slight note of smoky oak. Most noteworthy is a strong taste of tart, green, unripe gooseberries that will divide consumers. This is the winery's most expensive Sauvignon Blanc, but it's not their best.

Always a compelling wine, the 2011 Upper Barn shows the estate's classic acidity and minerality that give it such linear elegance. There is, however, nothing shy about the flavors, which are an explosion of oranges, peaches, limes, honey and new oak. This wine is not for aging, so drink now through 2015.

Winemaker Graham Weerts has wrested a fine Cabernet from the difficult highlands of the Mayacamas Mountains, 1,500 feet above the Alexander Valley. The wine is first and foremost powerful. It shows concentrated layers of blackberries an blueberries, with an array of sweet herbs and minerals. The tannins are remarkably smooth, making this wine easy to drink now but also enabling the wine to age well. If cellaring, hold for a minimum of six years.

Even though this Chardonnay has rich, ripe flavors of tropical fruit, peaches, apples and honey, it possesses an austere elegance by virtue of dryness, minerality and acidity. The blocks from which the grapes were grown are part of Stonestreet's holdings in the mountains overlooking Alexander Valley. This is a fine wine, intricate and powerful.

The minerality in this wine is showcased through notes of granite that give a firm kick to the ripe apricots, citrus, tropical fruit and honeysuckle that make it so gorgeous. Drink now with fare such as lobster, tuna or scallops.

The wine is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. It was largely fermented and aged in stainless steel, but there is some minor French oak influence, bringing a subtle soft smokiness. The fruit itself is exotic and complex, ranging from Meyer lemons, limes and green apple to guava and pear. Dry and acidic, it's a gorgeous wine to drink now.

Rich and spicy, with exotic honeydew melon, fig, pumpkin and baked apple notes, this is well done in a full-blown style, maintaining focus and presence on the finish.

The most promising Pinots come from this central Monterey County appellation, and this is definitely one of them, continue to show its promise. This is one of the few that goes beyond simple fruit and acidity into complexity. It's not an ager, but the raspberries and cherries, accented with acidity and oak, make it a fine partner now for steak, lamb, tuna or an elaborate mushroom risotto.

Comprised of multiple clones of Sauvignon Blanc as well as a splash of Semillon for complexity, this wine has only some neutral oak, which is barely evident in the tasting profile. The flavors are strong in lemons, limes, pink grapefruits and sweeter peaches and nectarines, with a strong hint of tart, green gooseberries.

Tilts toward the rustic side, showing a drying edge to the brick and crushed rock notes, with dried berry and savory herb details.

From Santa Barbara’s first commercial vineyard. Clones 114, 667 and Pommard. Small yields. Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. The aromatics are captivating with a complex array of black raspberry, blackberry, spice and floral aromas which hold up well over time in the glass. The dark red and black berry fruits are perfectly ripe and bright. There is a complimentary accent of spice and oak with an earthy undertow. This wine offers impressive clarity and tension and is very easy to drink now. I liked the wine increasingly over time.

Sourced from select vineyard sites in proximity to the Pacific Ocean. Clones 667, 777, 115, Pommard, 2A, Martini, Flowers, Calera, “828,” and 23. 100% de-stemmed, 3 to 4-day cold soak, fermented in small, open-top tanks, minimal post-fermentation maceration, aged in 26% new (98% French) oak barrels for 6 months. Racked only once for blending just before bottling. Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. Enticing aromas soar from the glass including cherries, berries, purple grapes and earthy flora. Very tasty juice with excellent depth and length offering an arsenal of flavors including dark red strawberries and cherries, cola and gregarious spice with a dusting of oak enhancing the experience. Nicely crafted, with supple tannins and a long, caressing finish. As good or better than many Pinot Noirs in the marketplace costing twice as much.