The 2009 Chardonnay Seascape Vineyard reveals an intriguing combination of expressive citrus, salt and crushed stone on a fairly large frame. The wine's balance and overall sense of harmony are first rate. A racy, saline-infused finish rounds things out in style. This is a gorgeous showing from Hartford. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Dakota Vineyard is a huge, explosive wine endowed with tremendous density, richness and power. Blackberries, cassis, graphite, minerals, spices and tar are some of the many notes that wrap around the big, dramatic finish. This is a stunning showing. Wow! Pierre Seillan describes this site as having a longer growing season and generally cooler temperatures than Helena Montana. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029.

The 2010 Chardonnay Four Hearts Vineyards, from Tom Dehlinger's vineyards on Laguna Ridge, displays a lovely combination of intensity of fruit and minerality. All of the elements meld together beautifully in this textured, complete Chardonnay. Lemon peel, mint, flowers and crushed rocks inform the expressive finish. The Four Hearts grows beautifully with time in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.

...it is impossible not to admire the wine's energy and big, broad-shouldered frame. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020.

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Trace Ridge is deep, plush and inviting. The Trace Ridge is denser and richer than the Hawkeye Mountain, but doesn't quite have the aromatic complexity of that wine. Layers of black fruit, iron, spices and licorice flow through to the round, generous finish. The 2009 is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Kellogg Vineyard in Knights Valley. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.

The 2009 Syrah Saralee's Vineyard, co-fermented with 4% Viognier, shows the wilder, gamier side of Syrah. Cured meats, smoke, earthiness, blood, iron and tar are some of the many notes that flow from the glass. There is no shortage of personality here, but this wine should only be bought by readers who appreciate the rustic, hearty side of Syrah. A plush, round finish balances some of the wine's wilder tendencies. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021

The 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Aurora is full of attractive melon, fig and pear notes. It shows considerable textural richness and depth, partly from the aging in neutral puncheons. I especially like the volume and depth here. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.

The 2009 Red Wine, mostly from Alexander Valley fruit, bursts from the glass with expressive dark red berries, flowers, mint and licorice. It shows lovely delineation and focus in an understated, gracious style. Layers of fruit build toward the plush, generous finish. This is another totally delicious, engaging wine. The 2009 Red is 99% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Malbec aged in French oak barrels (67%) new. It is a selection of the best barrels at Matanzas Creek. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.

The 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Helena Bench/Sonoma County is a gorgeous wine. Melon, peach, fig and pear wrap around the palate in this highly expressive Sauvignon. This late-ripening plot yields an especially nuanced, rich Sauvignon that maintains considerable energy and focus. Bright, grassy notes reappear on the finish. The Helena Bench was aged 80% in steel and 20% in foudre. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014.

The 2010 Pinot Noir Anderson Valley is a beautiful, layered wine graced with exquisite aromatics, delineated fruit and firm yet well-integrated tannins. Everything here is first-class. Sweet perfumed notes are the threads that frame the fruit in this expressive, juicy Pinot. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018.

The 2009 Chardonnay Nine Barrel is a selection from the estate's best barrels of Russian River juice. It is an effortless, gracious wine laced with tropical fruit, sweet spices, pastry and lemon. Although the wine is quite rich in its flavor profile, there is no sense at all of heaviness. The Nine Barrel was vinified in French oak barrels (34% new), with full malolactic fermentation and lees stirring every 2-3 weeks. This is an impeccable wine from La Crema and winemaker Elizabeth Grant-Douglas. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.

The 2009 Pinot Noir MacLean's Block is a big, masculine wine bursting with expressive dark fruit. Firm tannins provide the backbone in this virile, unique Pinot. The MacLean's will appeal most to readers who appreciate a bigger, firmer style of Pinot. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.

The 2009 Pinot Noir Fog Dance Vineyard is a soft, silky wine that shows the feminine, graceful side of Pinot. Sweet raspberries, flowers, exotic spices, citrus and mint flow from the glass in this high-toned, delicate Pinot. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.

The 2009 Pinot Noir Land's Edge Vineyards is made in a fairly rich, round style for the Sonoma Coast. The Land's Edge is built on a rich core of expressive dark red fruit, flowers, licorice and spices. It shows gorgeous depth and definition from the first taste. Deep layers of fruit wrap around the intense finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.

The 2010 Chardonnay Far Coast Vineyard shows the energy and drive of this site north of Fort Ross in the upper reaches of the west Sonoma Coast. At the same time the Hartford style is evident. Brisk saline notes provide the backbone in this aromatic, varietally expressive Chardonnay. Sweet hints from the oak linger on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.

The 2010 Chardonnay Fog Dance Vineyard shows a little more focus and cut than the Stone Cote. Here the aromatics show the higher-toned side of Chardonnay. White flowers, lemon and crushed rocks are very nicely layered in this focused, taut Chardonnay. I especially like the energy here. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.

The 2010 Zinfandel Jolene's Vineyard bursts onto the palate with waves of dark fruit. The Jolene's shows massive richness, power and concentration. It needs at least another year in bottle for the tannins to soften. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020.

The 2009 Merlot is a gorgeous, fleshy wine laced with expressive dark red berries, mocha, spices and licorice. It shows lovely balance and a juicy, approachable personality best suited for drinking over the next few years. The intensity of the fruit fleshes out beautifully on the expansive finish. Winemaker Marcia Monahan added 2% Carmenere to the blend to give the wine additional mid-palate depth, which certainly seems to have worked. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.

The 2010 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley is a sexy, medium-bodied Pinot that shows the elegance of the year. Freshly cut flowers, spices, roses and raspberries emerge from the glass. This is an especially nuanced, feminine style. The juiciness and sweetness of the fruit fleshes out nicely with time in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.

The 2009 Chardonnay Los Carneros is a beautiful, complete wine. Layers of apricot, peach, mint and French oak are woven together in this impeccable, gracious wine. Everything is in the right place. The fruit builds nicely towards the soft, enveloping finish. This is another striking wine from La Crema. The Carneros bottling is fermented in barrel, with lees stirring once a month and full malolactic fermentation. It is the most complete and well-balanced of the mid-level 2009 Chardonnays. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Reserve explodes from the glass with black fruit, grilled herbs, licorice, smoke and tar. The Grand Reserve reveals tons of energy and exceptional overall balance. In 2009 the blend is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot, 3% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, all from the Alexander Mountain Estate Vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.

The 2010 Viognier Alisos Hills is beautiful, round and impeccably balanced. This is a fairly restrained style for Viognier in the bouquet. It is the wine's texture, depth and polished finish that stand out most. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.

The 2009 Pinot Noir Seven's Bench Vineyard is a big, rich wine endowed with generous fruit and an open, radiant personality. It shows the exuberance of the 777 and 667 clones planted on clay soils. Subtle earthy notes, black cherries and licorice develop in the glass, adding complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.

The 2010 Zinfandel Russian River Valley is a big, exuberant wine bursting with dark black fruit, spices, mint and tobacco. This luscious Zinfandel is an excellent choice for drinking over the next few years. High-toned floral notes add lift and freshness on the finish. I especially like the way the wine turns more elegant and finessed with time in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.

The 2010 Sauvignon Blanc is a pretty, well-articulated wine that shows the greener, grassier side of Sauvignon. Bright citrus, grapefruit, lime, mint and white flowers emerge from the glass in this focused, energetic Sauvignon. The 2010 was mostly aged in steel, although a small percentage of the wine was aged in foudres. This is a terrific effort from Matanzas Creek. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014.