The 2006 Chardonnay Rae's was difficult to judge, seeming very tight, with high acidity as well as a structured feel to it. Nevertheless, there are some attractive tropical fruits and minerality behind this Chardonnay, which plays it close to the vest. For a wine already four years old, this is surprisingly youthful and backward.

I'll keep my tasting notes on Cambria's Pinot Noirs short, since the only wine produced in acceptable commercial quantities is the Bench Break. The rest are experimental, small lots, all of them solidly made wines emphasizing the red currants, strawberry, and sweet and sour cherry notes as well as the minerality of Pinot Noir. I didn't see as much difference in the clonal choices as one might expect, although the alcohol percentages ranged widely.

I'll keep my tasting notes on Cambria's Pinot Noirs short, since the only wine produced in acceptable commercial quantities is the Bench Break. The rest are experimental, small lots, all of them solidly made wines emphasizing the red currants, strawberry, and sweet and sour cherry notes as well as the minerality of Pinot Noir. I didn't see as much difference in the clonal choices as one might expect, although the alcohol percentages ranged widely.

The one lot available commercially in decent quantities is the 2008 Pinot Noir Bench Break. This red shares many characteristics with the others - minerality (wet rock notes) intermixed with strawberry, black cherry, and pomegranate. It is medium-bodied and crisp, in a tart, fresh style of Pinot Noir that should drink well for 4-5 years.

I'll keep my tasting notes on Cambria's Pinot Noirs short, since the only wine produced in acceptable commercial quantities is the Bench Break. The rest are experimental, small lots, all of them solidly made wines emphasizing the red currants, strawberry, and sweet and sour cherry notes as well as the minerality of Pinot Noir. I didn't see as much difference in the clonal choices as one might expect, although the alcohol percentages ranged widely.

Clean, controlled and confidently focused on lightly grassy, green-melon fruit from front to back, this well-made, medium-full-bodied Sauvignon steers down the center of the varietal road without getting too pungent, too heavy or too stiff. It is, in short, a balanced and eminently likeable wine that is approachable now, but one whose stamina should hold it in good stead for several years.

I'll keep my tasting notes on Cambria's Pinot Noirs short, since the only wine produced in acceptable commercial quantities is the Bench Break. The rest are experimental, small lots, all of them solidly made wines emphasizing the red currants, strawberry, and sweet and sour cherry notes as well as the minerality of Pinot Noir. I didn't see as much difference in the clonal choices as one might expect, although the alcohol percentages ranged widely.

I'll keep my tasting notes on Cambria's Pinot Noirs short, since the only wine produced in acceptable commercial quantities is the Bench Break. The rest are experimental, small lots, all of them solidly made wines emphasizing the red currants, strawberry, and sweet and sour cherry notes as well as the minerality of Pinot Noir. I didn't see as much difference in the clonal choices as one might expect, although the alcohol percentages ranged widely.

2008 La Crema Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley: aromas of oak, black raspberries and spice, flavors of mulberries and cinnamon, lush and smooth, full-bodied.

Kendall-Jackson is reputedly the largest grower of Pinot Noir in California and the Vintner's Reserve Pinot Noir is the best selling Pinot Noir in the United States. Moderate reddish-purple in the glass. Pleasing slightly confected aromas of strawberries and cherries with supporting oak and cedar. Modestly intense cherry and berry fruit core veering toward cherry Life-Savor flavor. Soft in the mouth with slippery tannins. A fine training wheels Pinot that is highly drinkable and a stellar value. Your wine impaired in-laws will love this wine. Good.

Classy, with details of barrel spice.

A smoky pinot with aromas and flavors of cranberry, herbs, mineral and spice. Balanced. Good length.

We enjoyed this luxurious blend of eight white grapes. You're not sure what you are drinking, but you know you like it. Citrus and tropical fruit notes.

An inky wine full of warm spices, cedar, earth and some fruit. A lovely nose; incense, berry and earth.

Simple, sweet cherry notes underscored by an aromatic earthiness. The nose is of incense and smoke with a touch of green tea.

RED WINE with a huge steak, pour a full-bodied, big-flavored wine like an all-American Zinfandel. Try the berry tinged 2007 Edmeades Mendocino from California.

Paired with recipe - Smoky Barbecue Chicken. Oaked Chardonnays have toasty notes that go well with smoky dishes like this chicken. Look for the pear-scented 2007 Cambria Barrel-Fermented Chardonnay.

An earthy pinot with notes of mushroom, herb, cherry and spice. Layered flavors. Nice acid.

Stonestreet Fifth Ridge Alexander Mountain Estate

Oak dominates this 100% barrel-fermented Chardonnay, giving vanilla creme brulee and buttered toast notes, but they marry well with the pineapple and pear tart flavors of the fruit. The overall impression is flashy and elaborate. The grapes come from the highly regarded Nielson Vineyard.

Here's a very dry, steely and streamlined Chardonnay. Brims with mineral-infused pineapple tart, buttered toast and honey flavors. Feels wonderfully elegant and balanced, and will pair beautifully with barbecued salmon. The vineyard is located on the so-called Santa Maria bench, one of the region's prime growing areas.

Great price for a Chardonnay this rich and attractive. Although the alcohol is relatively high, the wine feels balanced, with a proper tension between ripe fruit, oak, alcohol, lees and acidity. Offers savory flavors of lemondrop candy, pineapple tart and buttered toast.

Juicy and fresh; lovely red fruit; generous and ripe; lush and tangy.

Very rich, reflecting 100% barrel fermentation in partial new oak and 100% malolactic fermentation. Under the creamy lees and buttered toast are scads of pineapples, pears and papayas. The grapes come from the Nielson Vineyard.

Smells bright, citrusy and clean, an impression followed in the mouth, where intricate flavors of pineapple, lemondrop candy and Key lime pie turn spicy on the finish. The acidity is brisk; the wine did not go through malolactic fermentation. Just shows that a great Chardonnay doesn't need oak, although sur lies aging gives it a notable creaminess.