From the hilltops and benchlands of Alexander Valley comes this lovely Cabernet dusted in cedar and a faint rose-petal aroma. Along with a delicate supporting cast of oak and tannin, it offers black cherry, graphite and dried herbs, as well as a powerful concentration on the finish.

I was impressed by several Stonestreet offerings; the 2010 and ’12 Rockfall Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons, produced from one of the estate’s highest vineyards, were supple and elegant—particularly the 2012 bottling.

The Stonestreet Estate Vineyards occupy 900 acres of the 5,100-acre estate atop the western edge of the Mayacamas Mountains overlooking the Alexander Valley. From the cooler 2011 vintage, the wine offers aromas of black currant and dark cherry with notes of green olive and citrus. On the palate, fruit flavors mingle with firm-textured tannins and finishing notes of caramel, mineral and coffee.

This wine is quite an accomplishment in flavor and complexity, given the chilly vintage and price. From high-altitude vineyards atop the Mayacamas, it delivers peppercorn, herb and mellow oak notes and fine, integrated tannins. Graphite and cedar also figure into the mix, along with black cherry and cassis. Pop the cork when the pigs in a blanket come out of the oven.

I was impressed by several Stonestreet offerings; the 2010 and ’12 Rockfall Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons, produced from one of the estate’s highest vineyards, were supple and elegant—particularly the 2012 bottling.

Reminiscing on the 2010 Rockfall Cabernet Patience was rewarded in the best way on New Year’s Eve. In three separate instances, I’d tasted the Stonestreet Alexander Valley Rockfall Cabernet Sauvignon 2010. All three experiences left such a lasting impression that I’d decided to cellar one last purchased bottle of the red wine and revisit it on a special occasion. As 2017 came to a close, I decided it was time, one last experience with the red wine from the Sonoma Estate’s mountainous vineyards to see how it had evolved on its journey through time. Paired with a ribeye steak, garlic mashed potatoes, kale and apple salad and cheesy garlic bread, the experience was brilliant, different and memorable. Lots had changed in the world and in my life since the wine was bottled, and that was discussed over dinner. Plenty had changed in the wine as it entered its eighth year gracefully. Secondary flavors had taken over, tannins were tamed and the dark fruit note in the wine played a complementary role. It was a little kick on the finish that left a smile. The wine’s color on the edges had softened a bit, to a lighter shade of purple. The wine in the middle of the glass was as dark as ever. On the nose, time in the bottle showed a dusty aroma with cedar, dried herbs and mountain brush aromas. I’d walked through the mountain vineyards on a rainy spring day in 2014, and the heritage of the wine now showed on its nose. With the calmer tannins came a silky, smooth mouthfeel. Flavors of soy sauce, cedar and gravely dust came into focus. The absolute charm though was the round blackberry note that swept in on the finish. It was more prevalent when I wrote about it on Sep. 8, 2015, with the tasting note of: Stonestreet Alexander Valley Rockfall Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($100): Intensely dark violet color in the glass, beautiful dusty earth, quiet blackberry fruit with slate, pencil shavings and a savory meat component that intrigues. Sourced from blocks at 2,200 feet. My first experience with the wine was detailed in a Feb. 8, 2014, column. After the Altitude Matters wine tasting in Chicago, I’d written: Stonestreet, Rockfall Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010 ($100): Coffee beans, mocha, pencil shavings and a rocky minerality highlight an elegant wine. A lovely nose yields dark berry flavors and a hint of cigar box on the finish. If you have a bottle at home of the 2010 Rockfall, it will continue to change with more cellar time. But, on New Year’s Eve, I captured the wine at its best. At that moment, my last bottle had hit its peak.

Sourced from a handful of blocks situated on the spine of the primary mountain crest that runs through the Alexander Valley estate, the 2010 vintage includes a splash of Petit Verdot and Malbec to round out the Cabernet.

An elegant cabernet with great structure. Notes of black cherry, plum, herbs and cracked black pepper. Firm tannins. Nice length. An impressive holiday cab.

Abundant, rich aromas of blackberry, fresh ground coffee, dark chocolate and a hint of smoke and cedar. Bright, tart flavors of dark berries, dark chocolate, mincemeat pie and fine, well-integrated tannins.

I was thinking of Goose Island on a recent tour of Alexander Valley, Calif., when I was smitten by a particular cabernet sauvignon. With its dark, intense flavors of blackberry and dark cacao and its firm tannins, it certainly spoke to where the grapes were grown—wind-swept cliffs hanging high above the valley below. The owner of these vines explained that they typically vinify a mind-numbing 200-plus separate lots (some less than acre in size), each with its own unique characteristics. She also said that the 900-acres of vineyards (many of which cannot be accessed by tractors due to the extreme slope) are spread out over her 5,100-acre estate. The wine that bowled me over was the 2009 Stonestreet “Rockfall” Cabernet Sauvignon ($75). The owner in question is Barbara Banke. Banke’s “other” winery is Kendall-Jackson.

Fairly direct, sweetened by obvious oak and yet fixed on black cherries, this accessible, slightly ripe-leaning wine shows subdued hints of olives and herbs that very much say Cabernet. It is fairly supple and easy on the palate at entry, but it picks up enough tannin to end on a puckery note, and, if not built for the long haul, it still wants for at least a few more years of age.

Savors and scents as long as its name; sure, there is concentration at every level, but like many mountain wines it's all delivered so prettily, like a linebacker running on tippy-toes.

Alexander Mountain Estate, Sonoma County: youthful, closed and tannic with hints of cassis, mint and herbs; should age into an impressive wine.

...Stonestreet is producing wine every bit as good. Every one of its reserve wines will wake up the palate with exciting concentration, dense fruit flavors and great complexity. This is a stunning wine.

Recommended as a wine to drink while reading An Ideal Wine: One Generation's Pursuit of Perfection - and Profit - in California by David Darlington: This cabernet from its Alexander Valley holdings is...pretty hefty, but delivers its power gracefully.

...the 2007 Monument Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon ($45) uses grapes from special blocks ranging in elevation from 800 to 2,400 feet. Dark in color, it has huge black cherry and plum flavors with a touch of dried herbs and mineral.

The holidays offer a great excuse to splurge on a wine gift. If your target is high-end California Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, I suggest forgoing the quest for a cult wine. Instead seek out one of the great wines below...These wines are some of the best this winery has ever produced.

Dense, opulent, exotic, wild blackberry fruit and Asian spice. Layered streaks of black chocolate, minerals and tobacco. Grippy tannins and brisk acidity. Will age well. From 2012.

Named after Jackson’s only son, the vineyard, planted in 1991, is at the highest elevation on the estate, some 2,400 feet up. The wine is an iron fist in a velvet glove: graceful yet powerful. It had concentrated plum and boysenberry flavors with a good dose of spice and a hint of dark chocolate.

This seems like classic Alexander Valley Cabernet, which always gives off an intriguing, foresty, piney scent to accent dark cassis and plum aromas. Its flavors are all in the blue and purple fruit spectrum, with an herbaceous background note that gives the wine elegance and complexity.

Dense chocolatey nose. Rich, with concentrated black fruits, sleek but structured, but with freshness and persistence. From 2010.

Unlike the 2004, this wine is mostly cabernet sauvignon with only 5 percent blended with cabernet franc. The fruit is bright and redolent of blackberry and cherry flavors with hints of cedar and mocha. The 2005 won't be on the market for a couple of months.

Push the boat out for these very limited-production Sonoma cabs.