Smoky, lively nose with a hint of smoke and lime with more obvious freshness than the Colluvial California Central Coast Chardonnays I have just been tasting. Not austere, not mean. There is quite enough fruit here and some persistence. Though it's not that long …

Offers alluring raspberry and mulberry coulis flavors that stretch out in a lengthy fashion, with a zip of blood orange running underneath and ample spice, rooibos tea and incense notes in the background. The long, silky finish lets the fruit play out, while maintaining an elegant feel. Drink now through 2030.

From the 1.7ha Block 31, the highest section of the 1946 bush vines. 50% whole
berries, wild yeast open-fermented; matured in a foudre and ceramic eggs for 11
months. Truly great wines add something new on each taste; here, there’s an
ethereal, otherworldly purity to the lingering finish and aftertaste.

From a 2ha block; berry-sorted, crushed into 675L ceramic eggs; on skins for 133
days, in the eggs for 13 months. A scented rose petal and spice bouquet lays the
scene for an intense yet diaphanous palate that oozes layer upon layer of richness.

From 17ha of 1946 bush vines on a deep sandy dune. So scented/perfumed, and I’m
gone for all money without even tasting it. Its red-fruit sundae glistens with dew
drops on a spider’s web, yet also has a savoury echo on the finish

This sports some gorgeous fruit, with damson plum, griotte and blood orange pâte de fruit driving along a silky, refined structure, while rooibos tea, sandalwood, singed anise and savory details underscore the long, lilting finish. Drink now through 2031.

This bursts forth with abundant notes of succulent raspberry, griotte and blood orange, pulling in additional red tea, singed sandalwood and savory details along the way. Seems to pick up speed through the racy finish, showing more detail as time goes on. Reveals a late sanguine note that provides a lovely counterpoint. Drink now through 2032. From California.—

This has a long, steady, caressing wave of mulled pomegranate, blood orange and raspberry coulis notes rolling through, showing nice detail and focus as savory, singed wood spice and rooibos tea accents all thread up the mouthwatering finish, where a piercing sanguine echo lingers. Drink now through 2030

Alluring, with singed red tea and mulled pomegranate notes leading the way, before a second wave of raspberry and cherry coulis chimes in. The finish stays focused, thanks to a long, refined savory edge. Drink now through 2028.

Leads with rooibos tea and raspberry coulis notes, with hints of blood orange and chalky minerality. Shows a subtle savory influence that guides the finish, which has nice tension, thanks to the lingering minerality. Drink now through 2028.

This is an exceptional, mid-weighted chardonnay. A mesh of unresolved CO2 and juicy acidity provide trajectory. Vanilla pod oak provides direction. Taut and seamless. Lemon curd and roasted quince, nestled amidst creamed cashew, nougatine and truffle at the core. The finish is endless, joining a matrix of textural rivets and seams, underlain by the flavorful Gingin clone. With wines such as these it is little wonder that Australia boasts the finest expressions of chardonnay with Burgundy. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.

“Aromas of clove, bing cherries, lilac and mulch. A darker composition. A carnal whiff of autumnal leaves and Lapsang souchong. Detailed tannins compress a mid-weighted palate of impressive density and freshness. This will unravel nicely across the mid-term, based on poise and succulent length. A reductive clench at the finish confers further tension. Drinkable now, but best from 2024.”

“Discreet and a little more subdued than its siblings. The highest vineyard in the Yarra. Despite being gently mid-weighted with lower alcohol, this feels softer and looser at the seams, while still typically intense. Bitter almond, lemon zest, nectarine and pistachio accents roll across a skein of tangerine freshness and cinnamon oak. Oatmeal lees at the core. The finish is exceptionally long and effusive of energy. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.”

“Given the cooler conditions, much of the whole-bunch quotient has shifted to whole berries. Still, 20%. The semi-carbonic approach exudes floral perfumes, red to blue pastille, red apple skin and rosewater. Mid-weighted, sappy, nicely crunchy and joyous. An earlier drinking wine in the context of the site. Really delicious. Drink or hold.”

“Softer and more forward than other chardonnay in the suite. A warmer sub-zone, albeit, eastern facing vines. Aromas of baked apples, quince, lemon drops and orange pastilles. The oak is classy and impeccably integrated, directing a bumptious, mid-weighted palate. A subtly creamy finish. I'd be drinking this while waiting for the rest. Drink or hold.”

“Soft, beautifully perfumed and silty of texture. The structural latticework is looser and more reliant on a skein of juicy freshness over any significant tannin. Silky and svelte. Barely mid-weighted of feel, such is the ethereal aura. Lovely tangy length. Red mountain berries, bergamot and cranberries. A wine to pique the curiosity of the versed drinker as much as one new to the variety. Drink or hold, but really this is such an enticing proposition that it is hard to resist immediately.”

“MV6 and 115 clones, planted in a cool spot at 230 meters. The cool, wet year is obviated to an extent by a good portion of whole berries servicing sumptuous florals and oodles of red forest fruits. Very pretty, reminiscent of a high quality cru Beaujolais. Silky tannins. The acidity, gentle and peppery. The finish, svelte and joyous. Drink now. Preferably in large drafts, so delicious this is.”

“A foray into Tasmania, in pursuit of great expressions of pinot noir. A very cool year, mitigated to an extent by long sunlight hours. Pepper, fecund strawberry and orange zest. The tannins, lithe and savory-astringent. The freshness, apposite. This mid-weighted wine should age well across the mid-term. Delicious, if not a bit prosaic. Drink or hold.”

Amazing wine. Deep and elegant at once. Seamless, just so seamless. Blackcurrant and bay leaf notes, woodsmoke and cedar, roasted nuts, some coffee, some salted black olive characters. Tannin is immensely fine-grained; the finish all-round feels confident and long. Spread; that’s what this wine has. Lots of spread. It’s championship material. It’s a long-termer.

A whole lot of blue and black fruit, some violet perfume, and no shortage of creamy mocha oak, also some iodine and crushed dried herbs. It’s full-bodied, rich in flavour, a Turkish coffee feel to tannin, chocolaty oak, dried blueberry and raspberry, lavish silty tannin to close, with oak and fruit having a fair old crack at each other, though the density of the fruit is probably the winner. It’s a bold wine, inky and ferrous, with no shortage of stuffing. It’s a throaty, almost Napa style of wine, and kind of showy in that way, though there’s no doubt it’s high quality.

This is a weighty merlot. It’s also a firmly structured one. Mulberry, redcurrant, coffee beans and saltbush notes merge into dark chocolate and earth. There will be no compalaints of this wine’s depth, or spread, or tannic framework, though it may (or may not) lack some x-factor. This latter comment is of course in the context that x-factor is a near impossible demand to make of a wine; given that it’s impossible to define, and that you only know it when you see it. In any case there’s ample weight on this wine’s bones, and it’s all delivered in svelte form.

Bursting with ripe peach, pear and pineapple with an expressive vanilla bean oak intensity and a lively tension from the lemon acidity. Long, herbaceous and fulfilling.

I can’t help but do a little happy dance for the savvy team behind Yangarra when I crack the seal on the Ovitelli Blanc. Grenache Blanc in capable hands – YAY. This is a blend of 73% Grenache Blanc and 27% Roussanne and it makes sense in the old country of McLaren Vale. Like anything Yangarra does, there is thought, consideration, trials and a purpose behind each decision made both in the vineyard and winery. It’s no surprise then that the fruit is handled with a portion macerated on skins for over 110 days, some batches whole bunch pressed and other elements with the finest pressure imaginable. All parts into ceramic eggs for fermentation. Sounds like a lot of work and you bet it is. However, what you are left with is a bouquet of alluring white gardenia, Cape jasmine and aloe vera gel. Star fruit, winter melon and mangosteen. All of this before a rattle of what you thought you knew of textural white wines. A lustrous and creamy palate that winds down your tongue. With hints of bee pollen, whey and almond meal, this has the force of a fighter jet with the soft wing flutter of a night owl. It’s dynamic and pristine. I’m completely enamoured. Drink with..hmmm .. geez something bloody brilliant made by someone very talented. Or perhaps the sweetest scallop nigiri placed at room temperature in your hand by the Sushi master.

Always the delicately fine wine and long awaited between vintages. Here they have selected berry sorting and 100% destemmed fruit that goes into ceramic eggs for 13 months. No pressings, no oak. Basically no Bull. This is NOT a red lollied water Grenache for slurping sake. This is style and substance and this, my friends, is Grenache in the hands of those that adore it. Fresh pomegranate seeds picked from their hulls. Goji berry, salted red plum, mace and dried porcini mushroom powder. It’s the slinkyness across the palate that curves with the finesse of skin tannins. Rosemary stem, thistle and pine needle with a savoury licorice root astringency. Such an elegant expression of site backed by pinpoint accuracy. Drink with roast figs, chalky goats cheese and pomegranate molasses.

Buttery, toasty influence on baked lemons and rye over hints of smoke. Creamy on the palate, luscious and textured.