Not all sauvignon blanc is one-dimensional and this Sonoma County producer proves it year after year. You pay more — but you get so much more complexity and depth. The Bennett Valley version has powerful aromas of pear, lychee and basil. There is crisp acidity yet a roundness that comes from dash of musque clone. The producer also makes a Helena Bench sauvignon blanc ($40) that is even more delicious.

A floral sauvignon blanc with vibrant fruit on the palate. Notes of pear, lemon and thyme. Crisp finish.

A bright and lively sauvignon blanc with notes of nectarine, spice and a hint of lemongrass. Crisp and clean.

Matanzas Creek's regular sauvignon blanc ($21) is a pretty big wine for the price.

Matanzas Creek has long been one of California's leaders in sauvignon blanc, and the 2012 reaffirms that distinction. Not grassy and cutting like some of this varietal, this full-bodied dry white wine offers bold flavors of figs, herbs, green apple, gooseberries, vanilla, almond and mint. This is far more complex than most whites in this price range.

One percent of Semillon is in the blend, but this wine basically highlights classic Sauvignon Blanc notes of citrus and tropical fruits, green apples and pears. There's a slight note of smoky oak. Most noteworthy is a strong taste of tart, green, unripe gooseberries that will divide consumers. This is the winery's most expensive Sauvignon Blanc, but it's not their best.

A bright sauvignon blanc with a lot going on. Aromas and flavors of grapefruit, lemon zest and papaya. Seamless texture. Balanced.

2012 Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc, Helena Bench, Sonoma County (99 percent sauvignon blanc, 1 percent semillon): rich and crisp, with aromas and flavors of sweet oranges and fennel; $40.

This reputable Sonoma County producer made three different sauvignon blancs in 2012 - all of them excellent. It was fun to taste them side by side to see the difference clones and soil can make. We're a sucker for the musque clone, so this version with 40 percent musque appealed to us the most. There is also a dash of semillon to soften the texture. Lots of citrus and melon notes with a touch of minerality and crisp acidity.

The Matanzas Creek Helena Bench Sauvignon Blanc 2012 continued its trend as being one of the prettiest interpretations of the varietal on the market. There’s tropical fruit and floral aromas. Pineapple and starfruit flavors emerge on a medium bodied fresh, crisp and complex white that finished with a zest lime note. The mouthfeel is dynamic because of the texture layers it provided.

Winemaker Marcia Monahan is now releasing single-vineyard bottlings from Bennett Valley and from Helena Bench in Knights Valley, primarily for the restaurant trade. Both are excellent, slightly but noticeably singular expressions of what goes into the Sonoma County blend.

This classic seafood wine was blended of 84% Sauvignon Blanc, 8% Sauvignon Musque and 8% Semillon from the Coyote Hills and Knights Crossing Vineyards. A small percentage of the wine was barrel fermented and aged to add texture and complexity. Aromas of dusty mineral, lilac, lime, herbs and white peach invite a sip, revealing flavors of tangy lemon and grapefruit with peach and garden herbs on the finish.

An exceptional expression of Sonoma County sauvignon blanc, with racy acidity that revives the palate, followed by exciting tropical fruit flavors that just won’t quit. My experience with this wine is that it improves over three or four years.

2011 Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County: crisp and vibrant, medium-bodied with aromas and flavors of lemons, limes and grapefruit.

A classic Californian offering; vibrant with citrus and verbena notes; super tangy finish.

We have always enjoyed this distinctive sauvignon blanc from Sonoma County. It's always a little different and this year it's bolder than ever. Lots of grapefruit, citrus and mango aromas followed by citrus and peach notes to broaden the grapefruit character.

This is neither a typical nor an average sauvignon blanc. Matanzas Creek has a style all its own, and it certainly ranks in the top 1 percent of sauvignon blancs worldwide. The flavor profile is not the typical mouthful of grass and herbs. Fig is the dominant flavor, seasoned with nuances of citrus, pear, herbs, Asian spices and vanilla. It is much deeper, richer and more complex than most sauvignon blancs. While it's on the expensive side for a sauvignon blanc, it's a bargain for a great white wine.

Winemaker Marcia Monahan is releasing single-vineyard bottlings from Bennett Valley and Helena Bench in Knights Valley, primarily for the restaurant trade. Both are excellent, slightly but noticeably singular expressions of what goes into the Sonoma County blend.

A well-known Merlot producer, this long-standing Sonoma County winery also bottles this peppery, mouthwatering Sauvignon Blanc. It's well worth hunting for.

One our perennial favorites in this grape variety, Matanzas knows how to make sauvignon blanc. They always have crisp acidity and complexity that you don't often find in sauvignon blanc. If you want a real treat, try the Helena Bench version for $38 - loads of layered, rich fruit character and blended with 25 percent of the musque clone that adds rich dimension.

Here's an intense, no-holds-barred sauvignon blanc that isn't for folks who are ambivalent about this bold white varietal. It's very dry, intensely herbal and fresh. There's a complex mix of flavors of figs, grass, lime, minerals and smoke. Wisely bottled under screw cap. Best drunk over the next year.

A tasty, tropical sauvignon blanc that's approachable. Aromas and flavors of grapefruit, kiwi, toast and spice. Juicy.

Bright and crisp, with lemon meringue flavors and hints of minerals.