K-J's Grand Reserve 2005 Chardonnay does justice to the reputation of the brand - it's a succulent mix of tropical and citrus fruits, polished and racy with a pleasing minerality.

Today, finding a bargain-priced, finely oaked chardonnay is a grail for consumers. Kendall-Jackson proved it has a handle on that with its Vintner's Reserve 2004, which squeezed out top spot in a field full of close contenders.

LA CREMA 2003 NINE BARREL CHARDONNAY(RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY) Only 200 cases were produced of this extraordinary wine. It just explodes in unfolding waves of lime custard, pineapple tart, ripe white peach, creme brulee and Asian spice-box flavors, and a minerality usually found in Chards from the far Sonoma Coast. With that metallic stoniness comes mouth-watering, citrus acidity leading to a long, dry finish. S.H.

2004 VERITE LE DESIR Verite's spin on Bordeaux St.-Emilion, the 2004 Le Desire (again sourced from the same three sites as its siblings) is a blend of nearly equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon and even a touch of Malbec. The deepest of this trio, it boasts a plum/purple hue along with a big, sweet nose of Christmas spices intermixed with black currant jam, sweet cherries, incense, Allspice, Licorice, and herbs. Powerful, full-bodied, and opulent, in terms of its phenolics, it is as tannic and extracted as La Joie. However, the fruit seems to be more noticeable, and there is a degree of opulence present that La joie will not reveal for a few more years. The beautiful Le Desir combines full-bodied power with the sweetness of mountain-styled, cool climate California fruit and French savoir-faire when it comes to structure and......

94 Points - 2002 La Jota Howell Mountain 21st Anniversary Release Cabernet Sauvignon.

Another first rate release from KJ's Highland Estate series this time from Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County. Stunningly rich and sophisticated, it's 100 percent barrel fermented but by using only 35 percent new French oak it has both power and elegance wrapped about a tropical fruit tour de force of pineapple, mango, baked apple pie and spicy vanilla. This is the full meal deal without being over the top. One of the best California chardonnay in the market at a highly attractive price.

92 Points - 2002 La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon.

A blend of grapes from two vineyards, including Bien Nacido, this polished Pinot shows the crushed hard spices and deep, black-cherry flavors typical of the appellation. It's still a young wine, brimming with acids and tannins, and is drinkable now, but has the stuffing for medium-term aging. It's a good value for a Santa Barbara Pinot of this quality.

An extended cold soak prior to fermentation continues to enhance the round, supple nature of this merlot with its spicy black fruit nose and cedar-y, olive underbelly. Similar flavours mark the palate flecked with cherry cola and chocolate. The fruit is a rigourous selection of top lots from Sonoma (77) and Napa (23). Winemaker Randy Ullom is using 23 percent new French oak here and it's really firm up the mid-palate and finish. Well done.

Blends fruit from Napa and Sonoma and most of that off top benchland. Look for a rich black fruit nose with spicy, cassis notes. On the palate it's rich ripe and round with coffee, vanilla, peppery blackberry fruit flavours and a long smooth finish with substantial but soft tannins.

There are few bells and whistles about this bottling, but it gets the job done in terms of delivering clean Merlot fruit. Its themes of cherries and dusty oak spice in the nose are carried forward in its nicely proportioned, medium-deep flavors. Its slight sense of polish makes it accessible now, but a touch of last-minute tannin says it will keep for a while.

Rich and Velvety, brimming with plum, blackberry and cherry flavors, wrapped in a veil of very fine tannins. Best from 2008 through 2015.

2004 Katherine's Vineyard Chardonnay ****1/2 A lovely chardonnay, with crisp, pear and apple flavors. Notes of jasmine, lime and toast. Rich texture. Long finish.

88 La Crema 2004 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); The best, most complex of La Crema's three appellation series Pinot Noirs shows true Russian River character. It's medium-to full-bodied, with oak-tinged cherry compote, root beer and cocoa flavors. Tannic weight could help it improve for a couple of years. -- S.H.

La Crema 2004 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley): Shows lots of polish in the ripe tropical fruit and green apple flavors that have a baked, buttery pie crust edge. brisk cool-climate acidity perks up these rich flavors and makes the wine clean and balanced. -- S.H.

TWO STARS 2004 La Crema Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. The somewhat plush but reticent cherry, red raspberry nose sits atop sweet and mildly smoky oak. This isn't a big win, but has sufficient cherry-berry fruit to balance the supple, somewhat velvety feel of a clean, quaffable Pinot Noir.

92 Murphy-Goode 2002 Terra A Lago #4 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley) This block selection combines the richness of the winery's Adams Knoll Cab with the tannic inaccessibility of the Sarah Block. The result is a wine that needs age. It displays its appellation's herbal, tobaccoey personality, with a solid core of cherry and blackberry fruit. Best to cellar until 2008, and should hold beyond that.

90 Carmel Road 2004 Pinot Noir (Monterey);Likeable for its silky texture and dry finish, this Pinot also offers high acidity and earthy, cherry, cola and coffee flavors. It's an elegant, food-friendly wine with a great deal of spicy richness and the silky texture that makes Pinot Noir so distinctive. S.H.

92 Carmel Road 2003 Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco); The Appellation is a distinct bench on the west side of the Salinas Valley, and this fine Pinot has benefited from the cool winds and long hang time. Marked by bright acidity and intense cherry, cola and spice flavors, it's a dry, rich wine, with a silky texture and enough complexity to age through this decade. - S.H.

Ripened to black currant flavors and soft, tender tannins, this rich red ends with the scent of autumn leaves.

It's from the people behind the big Kendall-Jackson brand, and shows exceptional balance and harmony for the money. Medium full-bodied and round, it's brimming with ripe mango and pineapple flavours, complemented by nicely integrated toasty oak and bright acidity. It would be perfect to sip all on its own, or with roast chicken, salmon or even popcorn.

KJ wowed the world with its off-dry Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay, selling pallets of the stuff in restaurants and grocery stores around the U.S While it made Jess Jackson a billionaire, he wanted something money couldn't buy: respect. This Syrah is a perfect example of where they are going, filled with big black fruit flavors (cherry, berry, and currant) and just enough of the grape's cranky natural aromas (black pepper, leather, and tar) to make you take a second whiff to analyze why you like it so much.