Freemark Abbey Chardonnay is something of a forgotten classic. As other Chardonnays have grown bigger, richer and riper, winemaker Ted Edwards has held the line. This wine does not go through malolactic fermentation and therefore has enough acidity to be light on its feet; as another effect, its aromas and flavors are not dampened by the ML muting process. In fact, the wine's fresh acidity conspires to accentuate the apple aromas and flavors. The wine definitely tastes oaked in its vanilla and smoke character, but it is not overly oaky. It is full-bodied as a Chardonnay should be, but not too big, and it manages to have soft texture despite its crispness, without the bite of high alcohol that mars many a Chardonnay for me. The winery is also known for its red wines: two Cabernet Sauvignon single-vineyard wines, the Bosché and Sycamore Vineyard. The winery has changed ownership in the past few years, and I am happy to see that the wine has survived the ordeal. If you're planning to serve this wine, don't think of it as a typical full-throttle California Chardonnay. It's more delicate and fine-boned than that. It doesn't need to be very cold, because its alcohol doesn't need that straightjacket. And it can accompany food better than an excessive California Chardonnay. I like it in a medium-sized glass with a tulip-shaped bowl, and I like it with veal or chicken fillets, grilled or sautéed. As I taste it, my mind also conjures up thoughts of grilled Italian sausages. Did you notice the price? In my perfect world, this wine would command a higher price--except that in my perfect world, most Chardonnays would taste like this one.

Cool breezes and coastal fog along with basalt soils (an ancient floor rock) are factors in Sonoma's Bennett Valley, home to Matanzas Creek Winery's 2004 Merlot. Herbes de Provence, a bit of smoke and dark black fruit permeate this full-bodied red.

If you love Merlot, this wine is for you. If you don't like Merlot, this wine is for you, too. It has the roundness and supple tannins that made Merlot the wine darling of the 1990s, yet it's so solidly structured, and with none of the herbaceous flavors and watery texture often seen in California Merlots made from grapes grown in the wrong places.

Fully loaded and fully flavored with an intense concentration of peppery black spice layered over an ever-present frame of toasty oak. Ripe cherries and plum get a measured dusting of mocha and the firm tannins persist through the finish. While approachable now, cellaring should soften and integrate each component for a complex and multi-layered experience.

Given Kendall-Jackson's track record and popularity it's no surprise that their ever-expanding line of dependably delicious wines extends to multi-appellation estates, like this Jackson Estate, which encompasses vineyards in Sonoma (79%) and Napa (21%). This is a complex Merlot, redolent of black fruit and soft velvety tannins, finishing with toasty oak.

A rich, complex wine of the kind we need more of. Packed with ripe pear, peach, mango and pineapple flavors that are well-oaked, and delicately balanced with acidity.

Silky and charming with notes of banana and lovely floral tones.

Another beautiful California Chardonnay with elegant structure and bright stone fruit.

Edmeades, a true Mendocino pioneer, has crafted an enormously likeable Zin, deeply flavored in black currant, cherry and black raspberry-pie filling and chocolaty, spicy desirousness. But for all its size and high alcohol, the wine retains a silky, elegant mouthfeel.

Medium ruby color; light aromas of spice and strawberry; light, bit sharp, cherry and strawberry fruit; some tannin, lingering finish. Lighter, leaner style of Pinot with good fruit flavor.

Medium ruby color; light, earthy, cherry aromas; light, lean, red cherry flavors with a bit of earthy and toasty notes; lingering finish. Good middle of the road style with bright fruit and just a bit of earthy complexity.

Full credit to the winery for coming up with a solid, widely distributed, fresh and nicely ripened Syrah. It is slightly fleshy in feel and has more grip than one might expect at the price, but this is Syrah and there is nothing wrong with an intimation of the grape's power potential within an entirely drinkable and priceworthy version.

Black cherry and hints of briar highlight the aromas of this cassis-tinged wine, but the suggested tilt towards Cabernet Sauvignon is less evident in the wine's flavors than in its nose, and save for some finishing astringency, the mouth tracks like Merlot in character.

Intense, with Blackberry, lead pencil and cracked pepper aromas and tightly wound plum, bay leaf and licorice notes.

A classic Cabernet nose of cassis, with herbal notes, too. Good slightly ripe fruit, but not overly sweet, this wine is well balanced, and not an obvious New World fruit bomb. An elegant and restrained example of what California is capable of.

A Showy chardonnay. Notes of apple, pear toast and spice. Slightly sweet, with a tart finish. Medium complexity.

A pinot with a nice structure. Gamey, with notes of Strawberry, pine needles, oak and chocolate. Long flavors.

...the 2005 really shines with it's spicy cherry and strawberry flavors and firm structure. At that price, it's also a tremendous value.

A great value with melon and citrus notes dashed with exotic flavors of figs and kiwi. Blended with semillon and sauvignon musque to give it a soft mouthfeel.

This is a tremendous Cabernet-based wine. A mixture of Atlas Peak, Howell Mountain, Mount Veeder and St. Helena bench grapes, it's a masterpiece of blending. Seductive now for its lush, soft and brilliant cherry, cassis and mocha flavors that are finished with the smoky vanilla and toast of 96% new French oak, the wine is decadently good.

Tremendous Cab, grown on the high slopes of this appellation where great Bordeaux reds come from. It hits the palate with hugely concentrated Cab flavors, flooding the mouth with black currants, plums, coffee, spices and gorgeously toasty French oak. Feels lavish, powerful, complex and ageworthy.

Lots of structure in this refined, polished Merlot. The tannins are strong but sweetly ripe, and with the crisp acids, they provide a rich framework to the cherry, cassis, cola and mocha flavors. Dry and elegant, this wine drinks well now should hold for five years before the fruit fades.