The 2005 Chardonnay Grand Reserve (primarily from Santa Barbara and Monterey fruit) spent 8 months in a combination of American and French oak, with 100% barrel fermentation. Crisp and elegant, with notes of orange marmalade and oil, a brilliant texture, outstanding purity, and a heady finish, it is bigger than the Vintner's Reserve, but remains a fine bargain. It should drink well for 2-3 years.

From an Alexander Valley vineyard planted at lofty heights of 900-2,200 feet, the 2004 Highland Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Hawkeye Mountain is a structured, austere, Bordeaux-like offering displaying a backward, brooding fruitiness. Terroir-driven, it exhibits notes of black currants, crushed rocks, earth, and tobacco leaf. It should be cellared for 3-4 years, and drunk over the following 15 or more.

2004 ARROWOOD SYRAH LE BEAU MELANGE The 2004 Syrah Le Beau Melange reveals a deep ruby/purple color as well as tannin, chocolate, pepper, and spice characteristics. Although it receives an identical upbringing, it is a more structured, masculine effort. Where the Saralee is plush, opulent, and voluptuous, Le Beau Melange is tannic, firmer, and more masculine than the Saralee's Vineyard. It will benefit from another year of bottle age, and should keep for 6-10 years.

2003 ARROWOOD CABERNET SAUVIGNON MONTE ROSSO VINEYARDS More structured, backward, and brooding than the Sonoma is the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard. Dusty, loamy soil notes intermixed with tobacco leaf, red and black currants, and spicy oak are present in this wine. It was hard to fathom the day I tasted it given its tannic structure and backwardness. There is a lot going on, and it has a good, weighty mouthfeel, but it is very tight at present. Give it 2-3 years of bottle age, and drink it over the following 15+.

2003 ARROWOOD CABERNET SAUVIGNON The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma possesses plenty of spice box and cassis characteristics as well as a soft underbelly, medium to full body, and plenty of juicy, plum-like fruit. It's a wine to consume over the next 7-10 years.

The 2005 Chardonnay Sonoma (6,500+ cases) is 100 percent barrel fermented with 100 percent malolactic fermentation, resulting in vivid honeyed lemon, apple blossom, white peach, and currant characteristics offered in a fresh, lively, medium-bodied format with good underlying acidity. Drink it over the next 1-3 years.

2004 CHARDONNAY RUSSIAN RIVER The 2004 Chardonnay (8,000 cases) exhibits crisp orange rind, lemon oil, honeysuckle, and a hint of candied pear-like characteristics. Enjoy this perfumed white over the next 1-2 years.

Slightly bigger and more structured is the 2004 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Jackson Estates (a blend of 88% Sonoma and 12% Napa fruit). A combination of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot and Petit Verdot, it exhibits a dark ruby/purple color, an attractive nose of black currants, licorice, cedar, and spice box, and a medium-bodied, structured style. Give it 1-2 more years of bottle age, and drink it over the following 10-14 years.

Eighty-nine percent of the 2005 Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay Jackson Estates is aged 6 months in barrel with malolactic fermentation, which is pretty amazing considering the quantity and the sources. It is all coastal vineyards owned by Jess Jackson, with Monterey and Santa Barbara fruit composing three-fourths of the blend, and the rest from Mendocino. 2005 continues their streak of top-notch wines. Loads of tropical fruit, surprisingly deep texture, medium body, and wonderful purity results in crisp, elegant, dry Chardonnay. It is ideal for drinking over the next 1-2 years. This is unquestionably one of the world's finest Chardonnay bargains. It is almost too serious for its price point.

2005 HARTFORD ZINFANDEL HARTFORD VINEYARD Hartford Court's 2005 Zinfandels are considerably lighter than previous vintages. It was a cool year and I suspect Zinfandel never received the heat it needs to achieve full power. The 2005 Zinfandel Hartford Vineyard (289 cases) exhibits a dark ruby color, crisp acidity, a lean style, plenty of cherry and raspberry fruit, not a great deal of body, but good acidity, spice, and earthiness. Drink it over the next 3-4 years......

A Bordeaux-like blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, the 2004 Grand Reserve Meritage (762 cases) possesses more spicy new oak than its siblings, along with sweet berry fruit, fudge, coffee, and black currants. Well-made, medium-bodied, tightly-knit and closed at present, it requires 1-3 years of bottle age, and should evolve for 10-12 years.

The deep ruby/purple-tinged 2004 Grand Reserve Merlot (80% Sonoma and 20% Napa fruit) reveals notes of mocha, coffee beans, berries, spice and white chocolate. Although ready to consume, it should keep nicely for 5-6 years.

2004 PINOT NOIR RUSSIAN RIVER A cherry cough syrup character along with notions of toasty oak and beet root/root beer and followed by a lush, heady mid-palate and finish.

The 2005 Highland Estates Pinot Noir Seco is a crisp, cool climate example of Pinot offering cranberry, tart cherry, earth, and oak characteristics. Medium-bodied and charming, it should drink well for 2-4 years.

The 2004 Vintner's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is primarily from Sonoma, Mendocino, and Napa County vineyards. There are about 161,000 cases of this cuvee. Elegant, sweet red and black currant notes intermixed with spicy vanillin are found in this excellent, medium-bodied Cabernet. With sweet tannin and good underlying freshness, it will provide tasty drinking over the next 4-5 years.

2003 ARROWOOD CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE SPECIALE The brilliant 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Speciale needs a lot of time, but it reveals plenty of potential. A 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon aged 18 months in French oak, there are only 1,580 cases of this beauty. Abundant creme de cassis notes intermixed with loamy soil, graphite, and flowers leap from the glass. There is a terrific fruit on the attack, full body, plenty of power and intensity, and a long, rich finish. It should be at its best in 4-5 years, and keep for 15-20.

2005 GEWURZTRAMINER SARALEE'S VINEYARD I tasted two very fine Gewurztraminers on my recent trip, on from Z Mor, and Dick Arrowood's 2005 Gewurztraminer Saralee's Vineyard. Very authentic, it enjoyed a whole cluster fermentation and was kept in stainless steel, resulting in a luscious rose petal-scented perfume, plenty of body, and hints of exotic fruits as well as assorted flowers....

2005 CHARDONNAY ALEXANDER VALLEY The 2005 Chardonnay Alexander Valley, is an 8,000-case cuvee revealing plenty of crisp acidity as well as orange marmalade and honeyed lemon notes. It is a lovely, fruity white with the wood component kept well in the background...

87 La Crema 2004 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). There's a bit of leathery funk, for those who like that, to the cherry, cocoa cola and spice flavors of this dry, silky wine. It's a little soft, with a smooth, polished texture that makes it easy to drink. -- S.H.

At this price, VR is treading into high-priced waters, but quality is keeping up. The wine is rich and lush, with a fine balance of dusty tannins, crisp acids, and direct blackberry, coffee and herb flavors.

ARROWOOD VINEYARDS THREE AND A HALF STARS 2002 SONOMA COUNTY CABERNET

Murphy-Goode, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County. Plump, polished, ripe plum, mulberry, blackcurrant. Plush, gorgeous, silky dark fruit. Up to 5 years.

2005 La Crema Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Rose Sleek and elegant, it offers vivid cherry and strawberry aromas and flavors, impeccable balance and a spicy-fresh finish.

La Crema, Nine Barrel, Russian River Valley Sonoma County 2003 Elegant and subtle aromas. Juicy, ripe, rich. Tannins provide structure with acidity carrying flavours to a long length. Up to 5 years.

Shows real Pinot character in the light silkiness, nice acidity, and flavors of cherries, cream and vanilla spice. If you're just starting to get into the variety, this is a good into.