There's plenty of ripe Cabernet flavor in this succulent wine. Cherries, raspberries and blueberries are supported by fine, expressive tannins and crisp acidity, leading to a dry, spicy finish.

In a tasting of American Zinfandel between $20 and $50 from recent vintages, these were our favorites. 2003 Liars's Dice Zinfandel What a surprise; a real good food zin. All the right tastes with blueberries, pepper and earth, but a great deal of restraint and vibrant, food-friendly acidity. VERY GOOD

K-J turns out oceans of wine, but it's all made with the precision of a boutique grower. The new Cabernet Sauvignon is smooth and round, with ripe, dusty tannins for structure and toasty French oak for mouthfeel, spice and complexity. It's all Napa and Sonoma fruit, with splashes of Merlot and Petite Verdot, and is aged 15 months in wood, 34 percent new barrels. Aromas of cassis, blackberries, cocoa and brown spice are followed by notes of cedar, smoke and earthiness on the palate. If you're overwhelmed by all the labels on wine shelves today, don't worry a second about picking a Kendall-Jackson wine. They're always on my short list of reliable, affordable producers.

A fruity young red is a match for Turkey Day. For pinot noir, look for the spicy, medium-weight 2005 Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Pinot Noir.

Lokoya Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (Diamond Mountain District, Napa Valley) Black as night, with intense, blackberry tastes and hints of chocolate, mint and tobacco. Huge, but surprisingly elegant and balanced, with a long, dry, peppery finish.

U.S. PINOT NOIR THREE STARS 2004 Carmel Road Monterey

Lokoya Howell Mountain 2003 This latest single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from winemaker Christopher Carpenter is a refined and inky brew. The nose gives off violets, spicy plum, cassis, vanilla ice cream, and chocolate, and the finish is a lengthy tour de force that culminates in a satisfying minerality.

K-J's Grand Reserve 2005 Chardonnay does justice to the reputation of the brand - it's a succulent mix of tropical and citrus fruits, polished and racy with a pleasing minerality.

Today, finding a bargain-priced, finely oaked chardonnay is a grail for consumers. Kendall-Jackson proved it has a handle on that with its Vintner's Reserve 2004, which squeezed out top spot in a field full of close contenders.

LA CREMA 2003 NINE BARREL CHARDONNAY(RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY) Only 200 cases were produced of this extraordinary wine. It just explodes in unfolding waves of lime custard, pineapple tart, ripe white peach, creme brulee and Asian spice-box flavors, and a minerality usually found in Chards from the far Sonoma Coast. With that metallic stoniness comes mouth-watering, citrus acidity leading to a long, dry finish. S.H.

2004 VERITE LE DESIR Verite's spin on Bordeaux St.-Emilion, the 2004 Le Desire (again sourced from the same three sites as its siblings) is a blend of nearly equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon and even a touch of Malbec. The deepest of this trio, it boasts a plum/purple hue along with a big, sweet nose of Christmas spices intermixed with black currant jam, sweet cherries, incense, Allspice, Licorice, and herbs. Powerful, full-bodied, and opulent, in terms of its phenolics, it is as tannic and extracted as La Joie. However, the fruit seems to be more noticeable, and there is a degree of opulence present that La joie will not reveal for a few more years. The beautiful Le Desir combines full-bodied power with the sweetness of mountain-styled, cool climate California fruit and French savoir-faire when it comes to structure and......

94 Points - 2002 La Jota Howell Mountain 21st Anniversary Release Cabernet Sauvignon.

Another first rate release from KJ's Highland Estate series this time from Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County. Stunningly rich and sophisticated, it's 100 percent barrel fermented but by using only 35 percent new French oak it has both power and elegance wrapped about a tropical fruit tour de force of pineapple, mango, baked apple pie and spicy vanilla. This is the full meal deal without being over the top. One of the best California chardonnay in the market at a highly attractive price.

92 Points - 2002 La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon.

A blend of grapes from two vineyards, including Bien Nacido, this polished Pinot shows the crushed hard spices and deep, black-cherry flavors typical of the appellation. It's still a young wine, brimming with acids and tannins, and is drinkable now, but has the stuffing for medium-term aging. It's a good value for a Santa Barbara Pinot of this quality.

An extended cold soak prior to fermentation continues to enhance the round, supple nature of this merlot with its spicy black fruit nose and cedar-y, olive underbelly. Similar flavours mark the palate flecked with cherry cola and chocolate. The fruit is a rigourous selection of top lots from Sonoma (77) and Napa (23). Winemaker Randy Ullom is using 23 percent new French oak here and it's really firm up the mid-palate and finish. Well done.

Blends fruit from Napa and Sonoma and most of that off top benchland. Look for a rich black fruit nose with spicy, cassis notes. On the palate it's rich ripe and round with coffee, vanilla, peppery blackberry fruit flavours and a long smooth finish with substantial but soft tannins.

There are few bells and whistles about this bottling, but it gets the job done in terms of delivering clean Merlot fruit. Its themes of cherries and dusty oak spice in the nose are carried forward in its nicely proportioned, medium-deep flavors. Its slight sense of polish makes it accessible now, but a touch of last-minute tannin says it will keep for a while.

Rich and Velvety, brimming with plum, blackberry and cherry flavors, wrapped in a veil of very fine tannins. Best from 2008 through 2015.

2004 Katherine's Vineyard Chardonnay ****1/2 A lovely chardonnay, with crisp, pear and apple flavors. Notes of jasmine, lime and toast. Rich texture. Long finish.

88 La Crema 2004 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); The best, most complex of La Crema's three appellation series Pinot Noirs shows true Russian River character. It's medium-to full-bodied, with oak-tinged cherry compote, root beer and cocoa flavors. Tannic weight could help it improve for a couple of years. -- S.H.

La Crema 2004 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley): Shows lots of polish in the ripe tropical fruit and green apple flavors that have a baked, buttery pie crust edge. brisk cool-climate acidity perks up these rich flavors and makes the wine clean and balanced. -- S.H.