2003 Chteau Vignot, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru: light, dry and aromatic with flavors of raspberry and cinnamon; soft tannins; intensely fruity; $35. Miami Herald July 20, 2006 WINE Wandering but grounded, he's `a servant of the soil' Fred Tasker ftasker@MiamiHerald.com Pierre Seillan seems a little too down-to-earth to be a globe-trotting, jet-setting ''Flying Winemaker'' -- one of those charismatic characters who flits about the world running winemaking operations at a dozen wineries in half a dozen countries. But he seems like one to his wife, Monique, who says she seldom sees him at their homes in California and France. ''If his mistress were a woman, I could compete with that,'' she sighs. ``But his mistress is his job. What can I do?'' Seillan began to wander in 1997 after 30 years of winemaking in France's Bordeaux region. That's when he met Jess Jackson, who, with his wife and fellow lawyer, Barbara Banke, has create a far-flung empire of wine operations in the United States, France, Italy, Chile and Australia, including notably Kendall-Jackson in California. The winemaking styles of Jackson and Seillan proved sympathetic, and Seillan today oversees red wine operations at several of Jackson's wineries as consultant or winemaker. He makes a red wine called ''Le Désir,'' a blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and merlot, at Jackson's Vérité winery near Healdsburg in California's Sonoma Valley. He makes the red wine called ''Arcanum,'' of the same grapes, at Jackson's Tenuta di Arceno, in Italy's Tuscany region. Now Jackson and Seillan have teamed up to buy Chteau Lassgue, a 60-acre grand cru vineyard and winery in Bordeaux's Saint-Emilion region. ''Saint-Emilion is the most serious appellation in Bordeaux,'' Seillan says. ``It's not one of your generic Bordeaux areas.'' Seillan and Jackson were impressed with the vineyard's limestone soils, which give wine that French hint of minerality, and its perfect southwest sun exposure, which is crucial to getting grapes fully ripe. There's also a beautiful old chteau on the property, where the Seillans live part of the year. At the chteau, Seillan is turning out two wines from different plots with different soils. One is $35, the second is $50. Neither is a ''second wine,'' he insists, simply ``another wine.'' Reflecting Seillan's style, both are subtle wines based on merlot, with a French restraint and minerality. ''I am a servant of the soil,'' he says. ``It's not the other way around. I want wines that are fruity, with power but finesse and elegance, not too much tannic astringency.'' Visiting Miami, Seillan also was showing off wines he has made at Jackson's Verité and Tenuta di Arceno wineries. Both show his subtle touch, his ability to create intensity and complexity without bombast. And next year -- maybe later -- Monique hopes to slow down her flying winemaker and spend more time in France, fixing the plumbing and redoing the paint on their 18th century chteau. ''It needs repair, but all the money must go into the wine,'' she says, sighing again. ``Someday . . . ''

2003 Lassegue, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru: intense flavors and aromas of black cherries, minerals and spice; firm tannin; tart, fruity finish; $50. Wandering but grounded, he's `a servant of the soil' Fred Tasker ftasker@MiamiHerald.com Pierre Seillan seems a little too down-to-earth to be a globe-trotting, jet-setting ''Flying Winemaker'' -- one of those charismatic characters who flits about the world running winemaking operations at a dozen wineries in half a dozen countries. But he seems like one to his wife, Monique, who says she seldom sees him at their homes in California and France. ''If his mistress were a woman, I could compete with that,'' she sighs. ``But his mistress is his job. What can I do?'' Seillan began to wander in 1997 after 30 years of winemaking in France's Bordeaux region. That's when he met Jess Jackson, who, with his wife and fellow lawyer, Barbara Banke, has create a far-flung empire of wine operations in the United States, France, Italy, Chile and Australia, including notably Kendall-Jackson in California. The winemaking styles of Jackson and Seillan proved sympathetic, and Seillan today oversees red wine operations at several of Jackson's wineries as consultant or winemaker. He makes a red wine called ''Le Désir,'' a blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and merlot, at Jackson's Vérité winery near Healdsburg in California's Sonoma Valley. He makes the red wine called ''Arcanum,'' of the same grapes, at Jackson's Tenuta di Arceno, in Italy's Tuscany region. Now Jackson and Seillan have teamed up to buy Chteau Lassgue, a 60-acre grand cru vineyard and winery in Bordeaux's Saint-Emilion region. ''Saint-Emilion is the most serious appellation in Bordeaux,'' Seillan says. ``It's not one of your generic Bordeaux areas.'' Seillan and Jackson were impressed with the vineyard's limestone soils, which give wine that French hint of minerality, and its perfect southwest sun exposure, which is crucial to getting grapes fully ripe. There's also a beautiful old chteau on the property, where the Seillans live part of the year. At the chteau, Seillan is turning out two wines from different plots with different soils. One is $35, the second is $50. Neither is a ''second wine,'' he insists, simply ``another wine.'' Reflecting Seillan's style, both are subtle wines based on merlot, with a French restraint and minerality. ''I am a servant of the soil,'' he says. ``It's not the other way around. I want wines that are fruity, with power but finesse and elegance, not too much tannic astringency.'' Visiting Miami, Seillan also was showing off wines he has made at Jackson's Verité and Tenuta di Arceno wineries. Both show his subtle touch, his ability to create intensity and complexity without bombast. And next year -- maybe later -- Monique hopes to slow down her flying winemaker and spend more time in France, fixing the plumbing and redoing the paint on their 18th century chteau. ''It needs repair, but all the money must go into the wine,'' she says, sighing again. ``Someday . . . ''

2000 Verité ''Le Désir,'' Sonoma County (cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot): cedar aromas; flavors of black cherries and black coffee; medium body; complex; shifting flavors; hugely rich; $150.

2003 ``Arcanum,'' by Tenuta di Arceno, Toscana (cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot): black raspberries and black plums; big, rich, generous and spicy with tart finish; $95.

Lovely, classic, luscious fruit exploding from the glass. Drink from 2010.

This generous, richly textured, barrel-fermented Chardonnay comes from benchland vineyards in the Santa Maria Valley. It has aromas and flavors of ripe tropical fruits and citrus, with honey and toasty oak accents, and has a weighty, full-bodied but soft presence in the mouth. To the wine's credit, its fruit character far outweighs its oakiness.

When it comes to Chardonnay, the name Kendall-Jackson is synonymous with this grape. While Kendall-Jackson is more known for its Vintner's Reserve and Grand Reserve wines, it is worth noting their commitment to terroir-driven, small-production, high-quality wines as well. This Chardonnay from the cool Santa Maria Valley is limited to only 4,000 cases. It is typical of Chardonnay from the region, expressing tropical and citrus fruit aromas, soft notes of vanilla and papaya, and good balance. Bravo to Kendall-Jackson for making a commitment to a high-quality, small production wine.

The year 2004 was a great vintage for Camelot Highlands, endowing this Chardonnay with the region's classic tropical fruit character, most specifically pineapple, as well as honeysuckle, vanilla beans and just a touch of sweet oak. Though rich and full-bodied overall, this powerhouse also possesses a Burgundian sur lies minerality that manages to keep the potent layers of ripe, juicy pear, apple and melon fruit nicely in check. The smooth, creamy finish goes on and on.

What a track record Byron has achieved with this single-vineyard wine, despite the hassles of ownership change. The '03 continues the tradition. It's rich and complex in cola, black cherry, coffee, cocoa and cinnamon spice flavors, with the silky elegance you want in a Pinot Noir. Drink now.

The grapes are from Bien Nacido. The wine was made Burgundy-style, and it shows in the creamy, oaky complexities. The flavors range from Chardonnay-like peaches and tropical fruits to sautéed bananas, but it's the acidity that really makes this wine work.

Big oak, big black cherry fruit, big tannins; a real steak wine.

Quite rich on the nose - dense. Full yet refreshing. Precision winemaking. 11 shoots per metre. Crop thinned. Very easy and gentle. South side picked 10 days earlier than the north side. Sits on the Santa Lucia Highlands line.

Definitely Pinot Noir, quite rich. Sweet. But fresh too. Very lively.

Very nice texture with a dry finish...

Deep sandy soils, deep crimson. Dry and very serious. Not at all the California sweetness factor - signs of real potential in this particular fruit.

Rich and tealeaf - sweet and round. Good sweetness and a bit of freshness...

Very rich and deep and sweet but infantile. Quite aggressive and punchy. Not quite knit. Chewy.

Luscious and well balanced on the nose. Very rich and sweet and readier than the 2001 - supple tannins. Dark chocolate and velvet. Long. Slightly astringent finish.

Slight evolution of color on the rim. Highly aromatic...

Very dark crimson. Rich and sweet and pretty focused, almost like a Penedes Cabernet in its frankness! Sweet and vibrant...

Very dark crimson. Beige volcanic rock. Very fresh Cabernet notes. Clone 7. Quite high altitude. Much richer on the palate...

Warmer, riper, richer nose. Want to drink - very rich and ripe and four-square. Dry tannins underneath. Quite deceptive.

Smells somehow roasted yet mountainous - not unlike a high Argentine fruit. Dry finish. Spice and tar. Real vitality in this very exciting, expressive one-place wine.