aromas and flavors of black plums and licorice, soft tannins, full body.

Last, but by no means least, the sturdy *KENDALL-JACKSON Vintner’s Reserve Santa Barbara County 2014 is a substantial, very specifc Syrah that, while a very good buy at its winery-suggested price, becomes an out-and-out steal when found at a discount as it often is. One star, best buys in the market

The 2013 Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Syrah, made from Santa Barbara County grapes, offers lively blackberry fruit, accented by hints of smoke and lavender.

Aromas and flavors of red plums and spice, soft tannins, smooth.

2012 Kendall-Jackson Syrah Vintner's Reserve, Calif.: (81 percent syrah, 12 percent petite sirah, 7 percent grenache): floral aromas, flavors of ripe black plums and cloves; $17.

Syrah's plunge in popularity has been well-documented. It's a pity, because the grape is so versatile. And you can find good, inexpensive versions, like the 2011 Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Syrah ($17), which is bright and smoky, with ripe berry, white pepper, a hint of roasted meat and fine tannins.

2010 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Syrah, Santa Barbara County: aromas and flavors of black cherries, mocha and spice, smooth.

Pinot Noir, mourvedre and grenache join the syrah in this motley but juicy blend from three California counties. Earthy, ripe black berry grapes and soft mouthfeel.

Aromas and flavors of red plums; soft, rich and smooth.

It may be street food, but it's gourmet. Pair it with a big, rich 2007 Kendall-Jackson Syrah.

Syrahs are a little like zinfandels -- big, rich and almost sweet, great with spicy food. This one has black plum and cinnamon flavors and big but ripe tannins.

Spicy black cherries and licorice; opulent and ripe.

K-J has a terrific syrah in the full-bodied 2005 Vintner's Reserve Syrah, which is ripe with blackberry fruitiness and notes of black pepper.

Our wine of the week, Kendall-Jackson 2005 Vintner's Reserve Syrah, is a somewhat subtle example of the direction of this varietal in California, and the New World in general. It does not have as much immediate forward fruit as Jess Jackson, founder of the behemoth brand, usually advocates. Instead, flavors begin to unfold midpalate, with a general sense of dark fruit swaddled in violet and lavender. A profoundly silky texture resolves in just a bit of roughness around the edges, where the wine's earthier qualities linger.

A rich, meaty syrah. Aromas and flavors of lavender, violet, dark plum, blackberry and caramel. Nice jammy fruit. Medium complexity. Soft texture.

Kendall-Jackson, best known for its ubiquitous Vintner's Blend Chardonnay, makes a wide range of red and white wines, among them this aromatic, muscular Syrah.

A 2004 Syrah was firm and spicy, with dark fruits and a rustic feel. It reminded me of Cotes-du-Rhone.

...offers a silky elixir of blueberry and blackberry fruit spice with lavender, rosemary and cocoa.

This entry-level Kendall-Jackson's syrah is no slouch. It comes from premium, cool climate hillside vineyards and gets a full quotient of oak aging. Although ripe and fruity in the California mode, the more austere flavors of the hillside fruit provide a robust, rustic style. Appealing to both California and Rhone wine lovers, this will prove a crowd pleaser.

KJ wowed the world with its off-dry Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay, selling pallets of the stuff in restaurants and grocery stores around the U.S While it made Jess Jackson a billionaire, he wanted something money couldn't buy: respect. This Syrah is a perfect example of where they are going, filled with big black fruit flavors (cherry, berry, and currant) and just enough of the grape's cranky natural aromas (black pepper, leather, and tar) to make you take a second whiff to analyze why you like it so much.