Top 100 Wines of 2017 Density is balanced by crunchy acidity in this generously flavored wine. Golden apple, nectarine, Asian pear and crème brûlée notes meld beautifully, and the finish is fresh and clean. Hello crab cakes.

Hartford purchased grapes from a vineyard block in the Durell Vineyard near Sonoma for this wine. It’s full-bodied yet bright, with honeysuckle, white peach, green apple and clover honey personality. Crunchy acidity makes for a long, refreshing finish.

Mandarin and citrus on the nose, lively on the palate, honest, very mineral and long, slightly exotic, original.

Hartford is known for its single-vineyard chardonnay, pinot noir and zinfandel from the western reaches of Sonoma County. It would be easy to dismiss this appellation blend from the Russian River Valley as its entry-level wine, but it is an excellent example of chardonnay from this part of Sonoma. It offers honeysuckle, white flowers and citrus notes, showing the influence of the cool ocean fog in its acidity and structure.

A tasty chardonnay with complex flavors. Notes of pear, melon, toast, herbs and spice. Creamy texture. Lovely.

This Chardonnay is white-winemaking at its most opulent. The subtle sweetness of honeysuckle greets the nose, as do aromas of candied lemon, lychee, and beeswax. The crisp, lush palate saturates the taste buds with white-peach, ripe-peat, lemon and lime flavors that arise from the wine's dense nectarlike depths, which gradually make way for a finish of green tea and spearmint.

The golden-hued 2007 Four Hearts Vineyard Chardonnay represents white wine at its most opulent. The subtle sweetness of honeysuckle greets the nose, as do aromas of candied lemon, lychee, and beeswax. The crisp, full, and lush palate saturates the taste buds with white-peach, ripe-pear, lemon, and lime flavors that arise from the wine's dense nectarlike depths, which gradually recede to make way for a long finish of green tea and spearmint.

Top Wines of Sonoma: Sonoma Wine Country Weekend August 2009

Top Wines of Sonoma: Sonoma Wine County Weekend August 2009

Hartford notes that you can see the ocean from this far Sonoma Coast vineyard; it's adjacent to Williams-Selyems' Coastlands vineyard, and is so cold that they only got 1/4 of a ton of fruit per acre this (admittedly, it was a cold year). The nose is less overt than Stone Cote's, with a scent that recalls orange oil. As you'd expect from that chilly a property, this is a taut, structured Chardonnay, with lemony acidity and a fresh lime-zest and mineral flavor that's very appealing.

This exceptional small-production winery, owned by Jennifer and Don Hartford, makes outstanding Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

From a single block within the Durrell Vineyard, this has a nose of smoky less and resinous notes that is truly evocative; Don Hartford said that to him it has a little of that hazelnut smoke that reminds me of white Burgundy, and that sounds about right, too. The fruit is all pears and stone fruits, with a citrusy finish. Four months in fifty percent new French oak.

The 2005 vintage was particularly successful throughout Sonoma; the Chardonnays were especially rich and concentrated, but well balanced with excellent acidity. Look for impressive 2005 Hartford Court Stone Côte Chardonnay, from the cool Sonoma Coast region.

From the fog-chilled coast of Sonoma, this mesmerizing Chardonnay has an atmosphere as thick as a Collins novel: seductive hints of citrus blossom that waft like a lady's perfume, a bite of lemon, and brooding granite mineral wrapped in a texture as smooth as a silk stocking.

Powerful, intense pineappley nose. Fine attack, texture and concentration; lively acidity; taut and persistent. Drink now-2008.

Hartford Family Winery 2000 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($22.00):

One of the best American Pinots I've ever tasted - and at a very reasonable price - this features sweet black cherry fruit with subtle herbal undertones and just the right touch of smoky oak.

Earthy, celery salt, sandalwood, spicy, black cherry, gamey, meaty aromas with a hint of strawberry tea. Soft, round, supple and dry with sweet cherry, vanilla, spicy, celery, strawberry jam flavours and a smoky, orange rind finish. Warm but balanced with good acidity. Fine effort and fine value.

Roses, wood, discreet. Medium-full body, medium acids and tannins, lots of red ripe fruit. Good balance, not too much oak. Crisp, medium length. Up to ten years.

Always open to syrah, I requested a taste of the 2013 Outer Limits Vineyard Syrah. As a part of the coastal Far Coast Vineyard, the “Outer Limits” comes from a cooler climate. I found a balanced, tightly structured wine with floral laced aromas and dark fruit and spice on the palate.

This is a gorgeous, no nonsense zin with layered flavors of black cherry, raspberry, white pepper and mocha. Concentrated. Lingering finish. Impressive. 4½ stars.

The 2015 vintage of the Russian River Vineyards Zinfandel was awarded 94-points by Wine Spectator magazine and placed #21 on their 2017 Top 100 list. The 2016 Russian River Vineyards Zinfandel blends grapes from all but one of their six vineyards and delivers integrated flavors of black cherry, berry and spice.