Although clean, mildly fruity and dressed up in a bit of sweet oak, this slightly thin middleweight says little about Syrah and lacks the spice, the size and grip expected of the variety.

Saturated ruby. Knockout musky nose combines cassis, red currant, Cuban tobacco and mocha. Suave and dense in the mouth, with bright, harmonious acidity framing the primary dark berry flavors. Still extremely young but deep and very long. A cabernet with impressive potential.

Exhibits common California Pinot aromas of beets and root beer, alone with spiced strawberries. Fairly full and rich, it's a plump rendition that shows a touch of alcoholic heat in the finish.

Talk about size. Ultra-rich, ultra-ripe fruit - you can literally taste the sun in the rich, sweet, pure berry flavors. Feels rich and thick in the mouth; jammy viscous, with outsized fruit. But has the tannic and acid structure to pull it off.

Zin does not get much riper or bolder than this late-harvest style version. Bursting with fruit, it's not for the faint-hearted. Winemaker Van Williamson says it's dry, but it sure tastes as if it has a healthy dose of residual sugar.

Smells very ripe and fruity. A dark wine that's fairly heavy-bodied. Tastes thick and jammy on the palate, with the flavors and texture of berry marmalade; sweet and full.

Very ripe and a touch jammy, with spicy cherry, licorice, cedar, sage and wild berry turning smooth and polished.

This winery's '99 pinot gris is a real mouthful of peach, apricot and melon flavors that are dry and elegant but also impressive in texture and length.

Very ripe cherry and plum aromas, spicy-oak notes; high acidity, layered fruit, tart cherry, hints of anise, long lean finish. Good with grilled salmon, veal chops and rosemary.

Dark cherries and plums, toasted oak, and tobacco-leaf notes; soft tannins, ripe fruit, oak accents; long finish. Value.

A warm chardonnay wit tropical fruit flavor of sweet pineapple associated with this region. The finish is a little gruff, and would be smoothed by glazed ham.

Flavors are very rich, complex and oaky. Has a wonderfully creamy texture, with lively acidity and a long, rich finish.

There's nothing showy or pushed about this wine, and if you like your chardonnays heady and rich, you should look inland. For me, however, this is exactly what a California coastal chardonnay should be: cool, invigorating, with the briny spice and salinity of the sea. Its flavors drift with a calm persistence, like a gull coasting in the wind, as if the chardonnay grapes could absorb the texture of the fog and the slat air of the trade winds. The structure is focused and rather narrow, with a fine, lively acidity that keeps the flavor subtle enough for Hog Island sweetwater oysters, or freshly caught snapper grilled on the beach.

…jammed full of blackberry spice and pepper flavors.

…is a clear step up on previous editions as winemaker Fred Holloway formerly of Sonoma's La Crema reduces oak in favour of creamy pear and pineapple fruit.

A warm and toasty style of sauvignon, filled with unctuous lemon curd and lime zest flavors bursting out of oak.

Simple flavors of corn silk and grape skin make this a good match for paella. Or pick up on the sweet roasted carrot and white corn with a bowl of posole.

Warm flavors of malt and wheat beer round the front of the mouth, then the flavors turn to fresh grapes, crisp and leaner, with a mouthwatering acidity. An elegant accompaniment to poached salmon.

This nicely balanced, well-proportioned Pinot brings together elements of red cherries and vanilla in a clean, moderately oaked, medium-to full bodied package underpinned by just a touch of fine-grained tannins.

Elegant and balanced - a blend of cherries and pepper. Medium-bodied with aromas of cherry and cola.

Deep fruit, slightly jammy nose, spice and toasted-oak notes; textured, full tannins; good acidity; long fruity finish.

Seep and sweet nose. Burst of acidity on the palate, with quite drying tannins, but still fruit in support.

A bit riper and richer than most of its peers in review here, the wine carves a complex web of smoky oak, sweet melons with a hint of peach and suggestion of kiwi fruit in the background. Full in body and slightly rounded and oily texture, it is a tasty and very satisfying wine whose best service would be alongside richer dishes such as grilled salmon napped in a lemon and ancho chile butter sauce.