It leads with grassy and lemony scents and follows in the mouth with a sugar sweetened version of the same play.

The surprisingly elegant, floral-scented 2000 Viognier displays the varietal's tell-tale peach and apricot characteristics as well as a note of minerality. This expressive, medium-bodied, fruit-filled white will drink well for 1-2 years.

Smells rich and oaky, with plush berry fruit, oriental spice and plums. High quality, with ripe, distinctive fruit. Balanced and elegant, with lots of pedigree. Young and tannic.

A soft, pretty, supple, Merlot marked by cherry aromas and spicy berry flavors. Soft and friendly, with plenty of charm, and enough acidity and tannins to lend it authority…

Lean and a bit edgy, with crisp tannins and earthy currant, leather and herb notes, turning dry and tannic.

Aged primarily in French oak with a touch of American wood, this barrel-fermented, lush, medium -weight Chardonnay is put through full malolatic fermentation, yet retains strong, vivacious acidity. Notes of tropical fruits, tangerines, and smoke are present in this attractive, California style Chardonnay.

…exhibits excellent orange rind, leesy, smoky, tropical fruit aromas, as well as a honeyed, medium-bodied texture with sweet apple/pineapple fruit flavors. Pure and ripe, with a subtle dosage of wood.

…an attractive honeysuckle, peach, Muscat-scented and flavored wine with an intense bouquet and loads of fruit on the palate. Medium-bodied and cleanly made, it is ideal for drinking over the next year.

…offers evolved aromas of plums, taspberries, and strawberries as well as soft, strightforward, one dimensional flavors.

…offers evolved aromas of plums, raspberries, and strawberries as well as soft, straightforward, one dimensional flavors. …offers a delicious combination of sweet fruit and subtle wood.

A good example of California Pinot Noirs, Edmeades' effort displayed rich, ripe black cherry flavors that could have been cloying if not for the solid backbone. It also showed undercurrents of smoke and licorice.

...Kendall-Jackson's impressive Single Vineyard Series, the 1996 Buckeye Vineyard cabernet sauvignon. This is a big, elegant wine with layers of flavors and a lovely, long finish. At $65, it's a wine for dedicated cabernet fans.

Gobs of generous cassis, cherry and plum flavors. Nice oak.

Elegant spicy-oak and ripe-pear nose, nicely integrated toasted oak; dry honeyed flavors, ripe peaches; complex, long finish.

Forward dried-cherry and cedar aromas; massive tinnins, concentrated fruit flavors, good texture…

Appealing aromas of oak and cherry. A burst of strawberry on the palate, bright and ripe. Vibrant.

Pleasant, light cherry-berry aromas are joined on the palate by a touch of cream vanilla oak. A touch of cranberry-like acidity brings some tartness to the finish.

A light and delicate Central Coast style with fresh cherry fruit and fragrant herbs. Wood spices up the finish, lending a sandalwood and smoked bacon richness. The texture is supple and soft, the delicate fruit persistent to the end. A satisfying Pinot for crispy duck.

Luscious dark raspberry fruit balanced by crisp herbs gives this wine a solidity and depth. Warm and spicy from the alcohol, it's well managed by the fruit presence, with a touch of pinot noir complexity in the finish.

A delicious opening of dark chocolate and black pepper leads to a rich earthy center, and explosion of blackberry fruit, and a velvety texture. The finish is long and satisfying, with echoes of the opening of fruit.

Heady aromas of plums, chocolate, blackberries, and raisins. Flavors are fruity, and tannins are considerable, as is the oak. Although the alcohol is only 13.9 percent, it drinks a little like a Port - thick and chewy. Will seem cloying and out of balance to some; others will be thrilled.

Dark color. A brooding wine that smells yeasty and young - like berry jam with violets and plums. Tannins are considerable, but well crafted. Very dry, with good acidity. A big red wine, it's best to age it a few years and see what happens.

Ripe and oaky, with black-currant and olive notes, along with smoky oak and vanilla nuances. Pretty good extract and spice combined with soft, velvety tannins make for easy, pleasurable drinking.

If the 1998 is anywhere near as tasty as the 1997 (93,$24), this should be on your list.

Packs in lots of complex flavors, with ripe fig, pear, melon, hazelnut and toasty oak notes, all woven together in a tightly knit frame.