Made predominantly from a steep block of shiraz vines planted in 2002, with a third of the grapes from the older contour plantings. It’s a pretty, spicy, perfumed, modern expression of shiraz – arguably more “syrah” in style – beautifully poised and seductive. Unlike the other two wines reviewed here, both of which deserve to spend many years in the cellar to reveal their best, this young shiraz is dangerously ready to drink right now – although it will also age well.

Two-thirds of the grapes for this wine come from the 1971 contour plantings, with the rest from a block planted in 2002. I have a big soft spot for cabernet grown in the cooler parts of McLaren Vale, even though the region is far better known for its shiraz. When it’s really good, like this one is, McLaren Vale cabernet ranks among the best in the country: intense blackcurrant fruit characters, complex layers of dark savoury flavour, hints of graphite and iodine, and long, fine, grippy, bittersweet tannins.

The 2017 Tenuta di Arceno Chianti Classico Riserva is a little more modern, with 10 percent cabernet sauvignon in the blend and some time in small French oak barrels. But the sangiovese shows in the wine’s rich red fruit and note of tea. The riserva is more expensive than the estate’s Chianti Classico, but I think the balance here is better. The estate was acquired by Jess Jackson and his wife, Barbara Banke, in 1994 and is now part of Jackson Family Wines.

The Best American Sparkling Wines to Try in 2021Gran Moraine Brut Rosé comes from the Willamette Valley, Oregon, and is a blend of 57% Chardonnay and 43% Pinot noir grapes. The Brut Rose is made using the traditional Methode Champenoise – the traditional method of secondary fermentation made famous in Champagne, France.Brut Rose fermentation is conducted at cool temperatures, in stainless steel tanks for freshness and intensity before a selection is further aged in inert French oak barrels for three months to add a spicy depth and complexity. The final blend then spends three years en tirage for it to fully develop into this premium quality, lightly sweet rose bubbles with the aroma of strawberries and stone fruit, balanced by citrus fruit and watermelon on the palate.

The Bordeaux-Down-Under maritime climate of Margaret River is just one of Australia’s many top chardonnay zones. The state of Victoria is abundantly well served with vineyards that yield unusually elegant, racy but brightly fruited chardonnay, among them the Yarra Valley, home to Giant Steps. Like many top Aussie (and Burgundy) chardonnay producers, Giant Steps makes a range of several single-vineyard wines. But their blend of fruit from vineyards across the region is in lipsmacking form this vintage, which is all about the pristine tangy fruit and clean lines.

Siduri Pinot Noir Rosella’s Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands 2017 delivers juicy, bright red fruits framed by pleasing acidity and oak and spice notes. Soft, pleasant, fresh, layered. All you expect from a Siduri/Adan Lee effort. You easily can enjoy this as a cocktail, solo pour, or matched with neutral wine crackers and/or a charcuterie board. Food pairing: salmon and other fatty fish; turkey, baked chicken; pork tenderloin; lamb chops, lighter cuts of beef, veal.

Bordeaux Right Bank + Sea BassIf you're familiar with France's iconic Bordeaux wine region, you'll know Saint-Émilion AOC on the right bank is established for its Merlot-dominant red blends. Nicolas Seillan is a seventh-generation vigneron and the general manager of Château Lassègue. "[My wife, Christina, and I] suggest our Saint-Émilion Grand Cru with a grilled sea bass and a side of oven-roasted chanterelle mushrooms," he says. Though most people think of pairing a red Bordeaux with meat, he notes a hearty fish is also excellent. "And in a way, Saint-Émilion with fish is going back to our roots, as the region was actually once covered by an ancient shallow sea," he shares. "The limestone with fossilized shellfish that was left behind when the sea retreated gives freshness to our wines sourced from the limestone and clay hillsides."

Sauvignon Blanc + Pork LoinThis white wine is well known for its crisp acidity, making it a versatile pairing just about any time of year. "Originating in the Loire Valley of France, Sauvignon Blanc…is an ideal wine for autumn as we transition from light summer fare to heartier fall meals," La Crema chef Tracey Shepos Cenami says. Right now, she's craving pork loin. "While many think of Pinot Noir as the go-to pairing for pork, the signature acidity of Sauvignon Blanc balances the fattiness of the pork, and the herbs in this dish harmonize with the zesty nature of the wine."

A tasty merlot with notes of blackberry, boysenberry and forest floor. Seamless texture. Lovely.

Those looking for a healthier way to imbibe this Labor Day Weekend will enjoy Kendall-Jackson’s new Lower Calorie Chardonnay. With only 85 calories, no sugar, and 3 grams of carbs per serving, compared to about 120 calories for a typical Chardonnay, this vegan-friendly wine boasts bright flavors of grapefruit, pineapple and creamy lemon meringue that pair deliciously with leaner Labor Day recipes, such as grilled scallops with seasonal vegetables.

Impressive California Chardonnay from Anderson Valley about 100 miles north of San Francisco.

Black cherry meets black tea in this mouth-watering wine. The tannins are polished and round and the finish has a savory edge that begs for a grilled lamb chop. Founder and winemaker Greg Brewer was awarded Winemaker of the Year for 2020 (Wine Enthusiast) and his work with Pinot Noir is legendary—this bottling is a great entry point for exploring his wines.

Derived from one of Santa Lucia Highlands most prominent sites, the Siduri Wines Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017 displays a transparent medium ruby-magenta hue and the whole array of qualities I associate with the vineyard — bright red and black cherry and currant fruit; exotic notes of sandalwood and crushed cumin seed, pomegranate and sassafras; hints of rose petals and violets; a background of loam and graphite-infused tannins provides grounding, while the other elements contribute to an elevating and balletic character; add subtle touches of cedar and tobacco and racy acidity, and the entire package delivers lovely balance and integrity (plus a silken texture), despite the 14.8 percent alcohol, a trifle high theoretically but merely contributing to a feeling of fullness and headiness. A beautiful drink, now through 2024 or ’25. Adam Lee was winemaker. Founded in 1994 by Adam Lee and his wife, Siduri Wines is now owned by Jackson Family Wines. Excellent.

For a lesson in indulgence, it would be remiss of us not to try an American wine. The 2017 Brewer Clifton Sta Rita Hills has it all. If you want hedonistic pleasure from your wine, this is the bottle you should take home. It’s generous on the palate, with lashings of sun-soaked tropical fruit, a delicate nuttiness and wafts of baked brioche. All these flavours come through on the palate, but there is plenty of refreshing acidity which keeps you grounded as your taste buds are delighted.

Pale translucent garnet in colour. Light red fruit and dill aromas. Dry with light acidity and tannins. Overall light bodied. Red fruit and dill on the palate. An understated Pinot.

Pale intensity, bright orange rose coloured in the glass. A very light tart red fruit nose. Medium body, lean with medium plus acidity. Mineral. Dry. Tart, fragrant, fresh red fruit flavour. A GREAT wine.

La Joie is the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant cuvée of Vérité’s trio of La-La’s. Seillan’s “micro-cru” philosophy guides meticulous vineyard work in crafting this Sonoma County blend. Sourced from the Jackson Family’s vineyards in Bennett Valley, Alexander Valley, Knights Valley, and Chalk Hill, the 2018 La Joie is powerful and structured but also gives an impression of weightlessness in its expansive mouthfeel and pillowy tannin. Dried violet, cassis, sweet tobacco, bay leaf, and crushed stone aromas and flavors make for a remarkably long and serious wine that will continue to reveal itself over the course of several decades.

The Anakota wines are made by father-daughter duo Pierre and Hélène Seillan exclusively from a Knights Valley property, as part of the Jackson Family’s Spire Collection. It includes two wines: Helena Montana and Helena Dakota. The former is softer, and the 2018 exudes a gorgeous floral perfume of potpourri, dried rose, and anise. On the palate, sweet spices meld with chewier black fruit flavors, supported by broad, plush tannins.

The Jackson Family’s premium Stonestreet label draws from its Alexander Mountain Estate. Christopher’s Vineyard is the highest-elevation plot on the property and in the Alexander Valley at large. The wine displays the classic rocky density of California mountain Cabernet Sauvignon—concentrated and plummy, with gripping tannin. Slick blue tones and violet lift give further dimension to this brooding Cabernet.

Don’t let the pale pink color fool you. This highly rated wine is more of a red wine lover’s rosé. It comes from La Crema, known for its small lot, Burgundian-style chardonnay and pinot noir. The La Crema rosé, which is made from 100% pinot noir and fermented in stainless steel, is made in a rich style that’s bigger in body and complexity than the Diora. It’s a very flavorful wine that’s lightly tannic and tastes of strawberries, watermelon and citrus. It would go well with paella, salmon and chicken.

Oregon pinot noir has commanded a voice at the varietals table, as well. WillaKenzie Estate Yamhill-Carlton Pinot Noir 2018 had bright cherry flavors that yielded to a spicy olive tapenade and wet earth note on the finish. It was medium-bodied, and had a snappy acidity.

The John Sebastiano Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018 delved into blackberry and blueberry fruits - rich with some compelling tobacco pipe spice.

Unearthed at my local wine store, the Siduri Pisoni Vineyard 2014, made by Siduri founder Adam Lee, had aged gracefully with black cherry, blood orange and some forest floor sweeping in at the finish.

The Siduri Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2019 had Christmas spice, nutmeg and black cherry aromas. Black cherry flavors mingled with a fruitcake spice on the finish that has a supple mouthfeel.

Also using the coastal influence of the Pacific Ocean are pinot noir from California's Sonoma Coast. A blend of two vineyards four miles from the ocean and planted at 1,000 feet above sea level, the Hartford Court "Land's Edge Vineyards" Pinot Noir 2018 captured the many facets of the AVA in one bottle. Far Coast Vineyard near Annapolis is at the north end of the coast, on a second coastal ridge that softens the impact of the frigid Pacific air and thus ripens three to four weeks before its counterpart Seascape. Located on the first coastal ridge, Seascape is at the southern edge of the coast and stares down at Bodega Bay. It is shrouded in fog and high humidity throughout the growing season. Harvest in Seascape can happen as late as mid-October. Red fruit, eucalyptus, bacon fat, mushroom, ground cloves and baking spice-rack aromas rose from the glass. Flavors of cranberry, cherry and spice built layers of character into silky tannins and a great mouthfeel.