There's nothing showy or pushed about this wine, and if you like your chardonnays heady and rich, you should look inland. For me, however, this is exactly what a California coastal chardonnay should be: cool, invigorating, with the briny spice and salinity of the sea. Its flavors drift with a calm persistence, like a gull coasting in the wind, as if the chardonnay grapes could absorb the texture of the fog and the slat air of the trade winds. The structure is focused and rather narrow, with a fine, lively acidity that keeps the flavor subtle enough for Hog Island sweetwater oysters, or freshly caught snapper grilled on the beach.

…jammed full of blackberry spice and pepper flavors.

…is a clear step up on previous editions as winemaker Fred Holloway formerly of Sonoma's La Crema reduces oak in favour of creamy pear and pineapple fruit.

A warm and toasty style of sauvignon, filled with unctuous lemon curd and lime zest flavors bursting out of oak.

Simple flavors of corn silk and grape skin make this a good match for paella. Or pick up on the sweet roasted carrot and white corn with a bowl of posole.

Warm flavors of malt and wheat beer round the front of the mouth, then the flavors turn to fresh grapes, crisp and leaner, with a mouthwatering acidity. An elegant accompaniment to poached salmon.

This nicely balanced, well-proportioned Pinot brings together elements of red cherries and vanilla in a clean, moderately oaked, medium-to full bodied package underpinned by just a touch of fine-grained tannins.

Elegant and balanced - a blend of cherries and pepper. Medium-bodied with aromas of cherry and cola.

Deep fruit, slightly jammy nose, spice and toasted-oak notes; textured, full tannins; good acidity; long fruity finish.

Seep and sweet nose. Burst of acidity on the palate, with quite drying tannins, but still fruit in support.

A bit riper and richer than most of its peers in review here, the wine carves a complex web of smoky oak, sweet melons with a hint of peach and suggestion of kiwi fruit in the background. Full in body and slightly rounded and oily texture, it is a tasty and very satisfying wine whose best service would be alongside richer dishes such as grilled salmon napped in a lemon and ancho chile butter sauce.

It leads with grassy and lemony scents and follows in the mouth with a sugar sweetened version of the same play.

The surprisingly elegant, floral-scented 2000 Viognier displays the varietal's tell-tale peach and apricot characteristics as well as a note of minerality. This expressive, medium-bodied, fruit-filled white will drink well for 1-2 years.

Smells rich and oaky, with plush berry fruit, oriental spice and plums. High quality, with ripe, distinctive fruit. Balanced and elegant, with lots of pedigree. Young and tannic.

A soft, pretty, supple, Merlot marked by cherry aromas and spicy berry flavors. Soft and friendly, with plenty of charm, and enough acidity and tannins to lend it authority…

Lean and a bit edgy, with crisp tannins and earthy currant, leather and herb notes, turning dry and tannic.

Aged primarily in French oak with a touch of American wood, this barrel-fermented, lush, medium -weight Chardonnay is put through full malolatic fermentation, yet retains strong, vivacious acidity. Notes of tropical fruits, tangerines, and smoke are present in this attractive, California style Chardonnay.

…exhibits excellent orange rind, leesy, smoky, tropical fruit aromas, as well as a honeyed, medium-bodied texture with sweet apple/pineapple fruit flavors. Pure and ripe, with a subtle dosage of wood.

…an attractive honeysuckle, peach, Muscat-scented and flavored wine with an intense bouquet and loads of fruit on the palate. Medium-bodied and cleanly made, it is ideal for drinking over the next year.

…offers evolved aromas of plums, taspberries, and strawberries as well as soft, strightforward, one dimensional flavors.

…offers evolved aromas of plums, raspberries, and strawberries as well as soft, straightforward, one dimensional flavors. …offers a delicious combination of sweet fruit and subtle wood.

A good example of California Pinot Noirs, Edmeades' effort displayed rich, ripe black cherry flavors that could have been cloying if not for the solid backbone. It also showed undercurrents of smoke and licorice.

...Kendall-Jackson's impressive Single Vineyard Series, the 1996 Buckeye Vineyard cabernet sauvignon. This is a big, elegant wine with layers of flavors and a lovely, long finish. At $65, it's a wine for dedicated cabernet fans.

Gobs of generous cassis, cherry and plum flavors. Nice oak.