Produced from 60% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc, and the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, the 2017 Valadorna is rich and polished, with a luxurious influence of sweet, wooded spice. A ripe perfume of black plum, vanilla, leather, and cedar emerges with a warming and sunny feel. It is full-bodied, with ripe tannins, velveteen texture, and a blanket of fruit without feeling heavy. Dried currant, turned soil, and herbs of amaro all move through the palate, and it speaks to the warmth of the vintage. It will drink well now or over the next 15-20 years.

Spiced aromas of roasted sage, black cherry liqueur, and cedar emerge from the 2020 Il Fauno di Arcanum, which is composed of 41% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and a splash of Petit Verdot. It is approachable and full-bodied, with generous fruit through the mid-palate, and reveals a silky texture with fine tannins. This is a solid and easy drinking wine to drink 2023-2030.

Age has brought about the first signs of maturity in this Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignon that sits on the throne of the company’s Estates Collection. There can be little doubt that 2017, in spite of a drought season was able to develop concentrated fruit so that this ferment would do well in elévage and emerge as a highly accomplished vintage wine. Which it is, with smart if just slightly furry acidity and the sharpness of trenchant tannins. Which incidentally will take another few years to fully settle and integrate into this highly professional wine. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023.

The 2018 Lassègue has a deep garnet color. The bouquet shows notes of cassis and violet. The palate reveals lots of red and black fruit, and silky tannins evolving in a long, complex finish.

A 2019 Mt Brave Merlot is based on a grape that is known for its softness by its nature, and this three-year-old was velvety and fruit driven, having spent 21 months in barrel, then bottled without filtration, which preserved elements of flavor that might otherwise be lost.

This is a great cool-climate Chardonnay. Stone fruit and white pepper hints waft into the senses. It’s fruit-forward and creamy, with a refreshing palate that’s kept in check with good acidity.

This is a very flavourful cabernet that is lighter on its feet than many in California, but still carries good structure. Will appeal to many tastes, which I sense is the drawing board design. Aromas are spot on somewhere between blackcurrant jam and black cherry. It is juicy and sweet-edged with with very good flavour concentration; then considerable sandy tannic grit. There is some immediate drinking appeal but it also has the stuffing to age. Best 2024 to 2028.

La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, with its plum, blackberry, toasted coffee bean, was more elegantly structured, where the tannins were silky, and the fruit flavors flowed right over them. It was amazing the amount of flavors on display for such a young wine.

Mt. Brave Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 was dark purple in the glass, and had dried roses, blackberry, blueberry and cigar wrapper on the nose. Concentrated flavors of blackberry and plum were big and bold, but balanced by a eucalyptus note on the finish. The tannins were a thrill ride on the finish, and propped up the flavors.

The Hickinbotham Trueman Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 had a classic profile of black currant, pipe
tobacco, cedar and a juicy mouthfeel.

This is from Knight's Valley, a small enclave in the hills between Napa and Alexander Valleys. It has proven to be fine cabernet country. This pours fairly deep ruby, with lifted almost piquant aromas of blackcurrant jam, pepper, cedary spice, vanilla and fine oregano herbality. It is full bodied, open-knit in that California way yet well balanced, with good density and fine tannin. Some heat in the midst as well. Excellent length. Should prove very satisfying to cab lovers of all stripe. For history buffs, Arrowood was originally a Sonoma start-up in the early 90s by renowned winemaker Richard Arrowood and Montreal born Alis Arrowood. Tasted January 2023.

The sun hits early at Applejack Vineyard, causing full ripeness of both stems and fruit. This creates ideal conditions for the generous use of whole bunch in the blend. Thus making this pinot a savoury bomb of mushroom and truffle notes with incredible earthiness.

Knight’s Valley is a special and distinct district in Sonoma County brought into the spotlight by the Beringer cabernets going back at least three decades. It’s nice to see other producers’ iterations here in Ontario and Arrowood’s is a good one. Carries the kind of qualities that act upon the palate with great energy and vitality but the bones are also strong and age-ability definitely probable. The fruit has been given all the fodder and possibilities to set up for a whole lotta something and wood has quite a bit to do with all this. As an ’18 has it matured? To a small degree yes perhaps but in a curio meets secondary character to set up at the horizon for a truffled Italian cabernet-based IGT stylistic. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted January 2023.

Engagingly flavoured, dark fruit-dominated, gravelly and well-balanced cabernet here from the Alexander Valley and the ever-reliable and consistent Kendall Jackson Estates. Classic blackberry and black cherry, cassis flavours lead on a backdrop of integrated, high quality oak, while tannins are plush and velvety and acids ripe but juicy. Good length and depth as well. Drink now or hold up to a half dozen years comfortably, even if there's no need to wait too long. Tasted January 2023.

Napa Valley’s La Jota released a 2019 blend of 81.5% Merlot, 11.5% Petit Verdot and 7% Tannat, from a vintage with “uneventful” autumn weather than allowed for longer hang-time for the berries, spending 21 months in 62% new French oak, coming in at 14.5% alcohol.

Here's a fine and flavourful well-balanced, savoury and gravelly, dark-fruited cabernet from Knights Valley, one of the top regions in Sonoma for the variety. I like the firm but not unyielding texture, the gritty palate promoted by tannins and acids in unison and balance, and the lingering finish. This wine confirms that quality California red comes at a price - you won't find wines at this level for much less. Drink or hold 4-6 years - no need for deep cellaring. Tasted January 2023.

KJ has always been about cool coastal fruit, which should work for sauvignon blanc, a newer wine in their lineup. I note this edition is skinnier than it has been, with a central theme of floral and citrus notes reminiscent of pink grapefruit, melon, lemongrass, and honeysuckle. A 15 percent addition of barrel fermented fruit has softened the edges, giving it a California finish. The fruit is a broad mix: 69% Lake County; 12% Mendocino County; 10% Monterey County; 6% San Luis Obispo County; and 3% Santa Barbara County

The 2020 Sauvignon Blanc Pine Mountain is bright, airy and effusive. White flowers, mint, white pepper, sage and lemon oil are all nicely lifted. This is an especially aromatic, ethereal Sauvignon, but there is just enough textural depth to pull it all together. A mix of clones yields a Sauvignon Blanc of notable distinction. This is a terrific effort, especially for the year.

Light bright green-yellow; fresh but savoury aromas, elusive cedar, white-pepper and almond-meal traces, the palate very dry and crisp, and finishes with a peppery aftertaste. Intense and long-lasting, and one senses it could even age happily, rewarding some cellaring. Impressive wine.

Lip-smacking, with fresh acidity and lemon sherbet, lemongrass, Honeycrisp apple and lime zest flavors. Reveals a distinctive thread of minerality on the finish, ending with precision. Drink now. 530 cases made.

Lassègue may not be a lauded château but this is a beautifully rich, silky, floral claret, steeped in blackberry. An indulgent treat.

This pinot noir comes from coastal California vineyards, including Arroyo Seco, Santa Maria Valley, and Monterey. The cooler sites help the acidity levels that keep the wine fresh. It's aged eight months in French and American oak (only four percent is new), adding some vanilla but mostly helping to expand the soft, round, earthy, cran-cherry fruit with a dash of spice. Ready to drink with simple foods, like a pulled pork sandwich. The fruit is 47% Sonoma Coast, 44% Central Coast, and 9% Mendocino County.

La Crema does a remarkable job of expressing the character of the various sub-AVAs where it makes pinot noir, which is no mean feat given its substantial output. The 2021 Monterey Pinot Noir is a snappy edition with bright red florals and cool, red plum leading the way. It spends eight months in French oak barrels (21 percent new). It was a long, cool growing season with some heat spikes that bumper the alcohol weight and texture of the wine, adding to its drinkability. We enjoyed this with a sweet soya poke, but salmon steaks would be fine too.

Open, expressive nose of fresh cherries, caramel, and black tea. The style is soft but juicy, with just enough acidity to keep the palate lively through the finish. Look for black cherry, cola, caramel, and vanilla with very little tannin. Ready to drink and a perfect foil to grilled chicken, pork sausages or vegetable pan dishes.

La Crema Sauvignon opens with a whiff of passionfruit and then strays a little more toward the exotic pineapple, guava, and lemongrass sector. It’s softer than any Kiwi version, but the roundness will attract as many as it will reject. The finish is medium-light with a subtle grapefruit mineral undertow. Ready to drink with sushi, chicken fingers, or a Greek salad.