Some of Napa’s most powerful wines come from Howell Mountain. Along with its sister brands Lokoya and Cardinale, La Jota is one of the crown jewels of Jackson Family Wines. The wines from the volcanic La Jota vineyard have what long-time winemaker Chris Carpenter calls ‘mountain power’. Deeply fruited, this explodes in a symphony of chaparral, lavender, blackberry and sage. Yet, for all its power, the wine’s violet-blue notes give it freshness. Mountain Cab Franc at its most precise and structured.

Immediately savoury, hints of wild rosemary and bay leaf referencing its fynbos-strewn home on the lofty peaks of the Banhoek. Yellow apples and creamed pear are stitched in by intricate notes of cinnamon spice, orange peel and the leesy complexity of baking bread. The palate is equally layered and savoury, with a core of peachy bright fruit wrapped in a mineral, crystallising acid. Truly distinct. 14%

Ray Guerin planted the Applejack Vineyard in 1997, and Sexton purchased it in 2013. The vines face northeast on a hillside in the Upper Yarra, yielding a sunny wine that feels open, even as there's a tight-fleshed coolness to its bright cherry fruit. That contrast plays out in a delicate, lightly voluptuous pinot, a textural pleasure that lasts on fragrance. Beautiful to drink now, this should age with grace.

Burgundian-like reduction of crushed stone and oyster shell – a certain flinty character Weerts says comes from a special site in Barrydale. Then, layers of limey, austere citrus, steel and crushed chalk. The palate is unwaveringly driven, with a tight linear acidity complemented by a skeleton of oak spice that tapers into a dry, crisp finish. 14%

Fragrant lemon balm, flowers and white citrus mark out the nose. There’s an inherent joy to this wine. On entry, a vibrant twist of freshly squeezed lime, then the freshness of nectarine stone fruits along with a compelling chalky texture and a properly mouthwatering line of saline acid. 14%

The Sexton Vineyard shares a north-facing hillside in Gruyere with Yarra Yering and Coldstream Hills; this will be the site of a new winery and cellar door currently under construction. The vines, now 25 years old, produced a meaty and intense 2021, layering the smoky earth of its tannins with spicy, bright, rose-scented fruit. Structured and lasting, this is a wine to cellar, then to serve with roast duck.

This appellation blend is a very satisfying and delicious expression of the region, rivaling many single-vineyard bottlings. Snappy aromas of raspberry and pomegranate are clean and polished on the nose. The palate is juicy and bright with strawberry flavors that are cut by minty tarragon tones.

In its bold, grapey youth, this wine needs decanting to show detail in the black fruit. Immediately fresh and clean, it turns fragrant with air, long and rich. A standard-bearer for the Yarra Valley.

High-toned red fruit encompasses the palate of this full-bodied wine, that is supple and generous in tannin and flecks of black pepper and clove. A rounded texture gives it a welcome plushness and length.

Weekend Wines
This reliable buy showcases the Yarra’s classic lemon curd combo of piquancy and richness. Well-judged oak adds gentle spice to the zesty candied peel and curd palate, enlivened by green nectarine acidity.

Fruity and focused, this lightly tangy and well-balanced wine offers clean, ripe pear, apple and lemon nuances on a lively, refreshing texture. Without barrel aging, it lets all the natural fruitiness of Chardonnay flow through.

Bright red cherry colored. Similarly bright and cherry-driven on the palate, with raspberries and tangy red cherries and cranberries, along with rhubarb, white pepper, some sage – nice herbal, spicy vibes. Smooth tannins and fresh acidity on the palate, a tart and juicy appeal with flavors of cranberry relish and juicy black cherries. Spicy, floral, fun, I get elements of earth, sage, leather and pepper, some rhubarb and dried rose petals. Really fun Willamette juice that drinks well, offers complexity, crowd-friendly appeal and bang for the buck.

Bright ruby color. The raspberry and juicy strawberry aromas of delightful, backed up with anise, black pepper, clay and tilled soil, some rose potpourri. Dusty tannins frame the palate nicely, medium acidity keeps it vibrant, and I get flavors of red plums, wild raspberries and saucy cherries. Notes of spiced black tea, white pepper, violets, clay. Fun and fresh, but sports solid complexity and depth.

Fermented and aged in both stainless steel and neutral oak, this is a fine, friendly and approachable white, that’s tropical and fleshy with underlying richness. Pineapple, mango and hints of fennel and dill give it a contrast of fruit and herb.

Thick and earthy in forest floor and black tea, this wine is spiced in integrated oak and ripe in rich, dark-cherry flavor, made in a fullbodied style that shows the site and vintage well.

Rich and ripe in style, this wine is layered in dark cherry, vanilla and bolts of tea, with underlying accents of forest and oak.

Blended with small amounts of Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this is an approachable, well-made appellation wine that shows a backbone of structure and power. Supple tannins wrap around a thick midpalate of black and red currant, cassis and toasted oak, finishing in clove and cedar.

Medium ruby color. The nose has a nice spicy-floral kick, with white pepper, rhubarb, cola and leather over top of raspberries and strawberries. Juicy and fresh on the palate with smooth, light tannins and vibrant acidity, making for a balances, refreshing wine. Tangy raspberry and spiced cranberry relish flavors play well with tones of white pepper, rhubarb and tomato leaf. Nuanced cola and light roast coffee tones. Accessible but complex, solid value.

Vivid green-apple and kiwi flavors complement the crisp balance of this deceptively full-bodied wine. Snappy acidity keeps it very fresh and lively on the palate.

A classic style of California Chardonnay, this bottling begins with buttery aromas along with fresh lemon zest on the nose. The palate pairs the butter and lemon with ripe peach flavors.

Dried cherry, cola and summer sausage aromas show on the nose of this countywide blend. Ripe cherry and berry flavors are pleasant on the palate, balanced by a persistent acidity.

Full-bodied and quite ripe-tasting, this generous, fruity wine has a soft texture and almost-sweet finish.

Floral aromatics provide an earthiness of compost and violet to this wine, thick in tannin and robustly layered in clove, cedar and plum.

Uncorking the Classics
Top sommeliers pick 20 brilliant bottles from historic wine regions.
McLaren Vale, Nadine Brown
This wine is one that made me stop and say, "Wait, what is this?" It's got that Roussanne richness but also brilliant acid and this very faint touch of funk.

Succulent, packed with black cherry and blackberry flavors allied to a dense foundation of tannins. Offers leather, licorice, earth and oak spice details, and finishes long and balanced. Sophisticated and complex. Cabernet Franc. Best from 2024 through 2037.