Slightly darker hued than a Provencal style, this has a bit of an off-dry profile, like cotton candy, but also hems in blood orange, watermelon and finishes like a tangy fruit bowl. Good with Asian food or maybe a Korean BBQ to offset the off-dry profile.

A very serviceable and enjoyable quaff from a mega producer. Tart strawberry and a tinge of raspberry. Clean, direct and well made – doesn’t try to be anything it’s not and I appreciate that.

Fresh raspberries and strawberries and joined with lots of jumping pink grapefruit pith in this tart, fresh and lively wine. Pretty and pleasant and a bit earthy and savory, so you’ll want to pair it up.

Lemony in rock candy and salty stone, this is a lively, fresh and full-bodied white from an estate vineyard. It is also flinty and fleshy, with complex layers of texture. Fresh hints of tangerine and grapefruit contribute a lively brightness that persists through a long, beautiful finish.

With a delicate opening of vibrant acidity, this wine offers an all-around ethereal quality of sea air and salty stone. Earthy, herbal and fruity in lime and blood orange, it packs a powerful punch of complex oak and structure that finds its way to a place of balance.

This bright, effusive wine is juicy in citrus and mango. It’s also flinty and bursting in sea spray, offering a lush, voluptuous midpalate of complex concentration. The contrast leads to a viscous, lengthy finish of floral beauty.

Tangy layers of tangerine and wet stone fill the glass in this fresh, focused and ultimately bright coastal white. Salty sea air lingers around strong, lush layers of richness and complex concentration, finishing in persistent acidity.

Mango, banana and pear meet a rich core of crème brûlée and oak spice in this deliciously complex and concentrated wine. It has lush, plush undertones of pillowy texture and a finishing touch of orange zest that help brighten and lengthen the finish.

Rich in ripe pear and a lovely note of vanilla bean, this white offers a crisp, mineral-like backbone of acidity and structure that shows its coastal beginnings. White flower, dried herb and sea spray contribute a beguiling character amidst the full-bodied weight of the wine.

Focused and deep black-cherry flavors ride soft tannins and a touch of brisk acidity for good balance in this compelling, fruit-driven wine from an immaculate small vineyard above Anderson Valley. Nuances of black tea and rhubarb emerge with more sipping, driving good complexity through the finish.

Wombat Creek again proves a winner in the range of single-vineyard Chardonnays from this top Yarra Valley producer. It's the highest elevation, grown on volcanic loam soils, and shimmers with a mineral complexity like sunbaked clay, lightly toasted hazelnuts and high-toned lemon zest. Butterscotch notes appear as it warms in glass. In the mouth, an unforced, lemony acidity bounces on the tongue. A well-structured wine with great depth, length and purity. Drink now–2030.

It takes a dedicated winemaker to work with the notoriously erratic Roussanne, but Pete Fraser nails it. A vibrant honey color, the nose is rich and savory, like crème brulée, amaretto, seashell, raw beeswax and damp hay, with gentle stone and citrus fruit at the back. The palate is an exercise in balance between texture and acidity, both locked in a beautiful dance. A little more flavor depth wouldn't hurt here, but overall this is top example of Roussanne.

Quenching in acid-driven flavors of Meyer lemon, tangerine and grapefruit, this is a lovely, bright, light and complex wine of great structure and refinement. A lasting note of wet stone adds to the beautiful texture.

Fascinating aromas of cranberry and orange peel lead to generous strawberry, red-cherry and redwood-bark nuances on the palate. This medium- to full-bodied wine offers a silky texture, fine-grained tannins and a long-lasting finish.

Big and spicy, this rich, powerful wine marries tempting toasted oak aromas with abundant, ripe flavors including poached pears and peach nectar for an absolutely mouthfilling expression.

Seamless and supple in a lightness of baking spice, apple, pear and flint, this wine offers a nice contrast between fruit mineral, with a texture of crushed rock. Made in a big, brawny style, it delivers plenty of complex power and richness to intrigue.

Tarraford has a long life ahead of it and is quite young now. If you do crack it open, sip just below room temperature to get the full effects of the fruit purity (peach and lemon), fresh flowers, structured, toasty oak and subtle saline notes. There's a bracing amount of acidity on the palate but it eventually slithers its way to the midpalate, integrating with the slippery texture and oak influence. Drink now–2030.

Black-cherry compote, cola and baking-spice aromas make for a very rich, inviting and delicious nose on this bottling. The palate lands with a lush set of black-cherry and toasted wood flavors, as firm tannins hold the richness together.

Opening in a strong perfume of oak, this robust, concentrated white offers woody spice, lively acidity and rich layers of Gravenstein apple, tangerine and ginger. A lush finish accentuates its bold, memorable personality.

The aromas bring an assortment of spices: cinnamon, clove and anise. Dark fruit notes sit behind them. There’s intensity and richness to the flavors but also balance and depth. The flavors hang on the finish. Compelling stuff that explores the variety’s riper side, with fruit and barrel playing well off each other.

There’s complexity to the aromas, with notes of moist soil, mushroom, assorted dried herbs, red cherry, anise and various spices. The palate is fuller in feel, pretty and nuanced, showing detail. Finegrained tannins provide support. It’s impressive.

With a big, rich opening of toasted oak, this crowd-pleasing wine delivers tropical richness and intensity around a spicy complement of baking spice and vanilla. It is well made and balanced within a full-bodied style.

Applejack is a tightly structured Chard with vibrant yet delicate aromas of citrus and florals underpinned by seashells, toast and a bit of toffee once it warms. The palate is like a jolt of electricity: a tart, lemony acidity bringing energy and freshness to a chalky texture. Could be a knockout with sole or a similar white fish. Drink now–2030.

This is an ethereal, earthy and cool-climate red, burly in tannin and power, with lasting notes of rose petal, black tea and forest.