Reductive and forceful in mountain-grown power, this full-bodied wine is bursting in graphite, iron and crushed rock. The grippy tannin profile intensifies on the palate, adding weight and breadth to the experience as highlights of red fruit, dust and oak weigh in. Enjoy best 2028–2038.

Smooth, deep and delicious, this generous and mouthfilling wine blends warm, ripe cherries and raspberries with subtle, spicy oak nuances like cinnamon and cloves. A full body and moderate tannins add just enough structure for balance.

Intricate, delicate aromas ranging from wild berries to forest floor and black tea are backed up beautifully by vivid black-cherry, sour cherry and sweet plum flavors in this exciting, complex and concentrated wine. A medium-to-full body and mild tannins provide great balance to the panoply of flavors.

This lovely and subtly layered wine was aged in 20% new French barrels for 16 months and exudes warm, mulled plums and cherries along with light meaty, earthy accents on a velvety and broad.

The 2019 Pinot Noir Dakél Viñedo Maricerro comes from the Itata coast, 12 miles from the Pacific. Aged for 10 months in 15% new barrels, it is a vivid reddish-purple hue with an elegant and intense aromatic profile of cherry, earth, and mushrooms kept inside a cedar box, accompanied by a whiff of smoke. Intense on the palate and full of flavor, it has a terse but silky feel and ripe, delicate, long-lasting aromas.

The 2019 Chardonnay W.S. Keyes is fabulous. Bright and translucent in the glass, the Chardonnay from Keyes is so distinctive. Crushed rocks, mint, white pepper and lemon peel all grace this exquisite, wonderfully nuanced Chardonnay. There aren't a lot of white grapes left on Howell Mountain these days. The Keyes Chardonnay shows how distinctive whites can be here.

The 2019 Cabernet Franc is fabulous. Rich, deep and soaring in its aromatics, the Franc is loaded with pedigree. Readers will find a potent, structured wine that needs a lot of time. The 2019 is a blend taken from both the W.S. Keyes and La Jota properties.

A powerful, virile wine, the 2018 Cabernet Bosché offers up an enticing array of wild cherry, chocolate, spice, leather and grilled herbs. The Bosché is potent, savory and super-expressive, but also less charming than most 2018s. It will need a number of years to soften.

The 2019 Cabernet Franc is mostly Franc, with a healthy dollop of Merlot, mostly from Everdon on Spring Mountain and then sites on Diamond Mountain, Howell Mountain and Mt. Veeder. The style here is all about elegance and finesse. In tasting, the 2019 is quite backward and primary. Time in the glass brings out the floral overtones and silky tannins of Spring Mountain, but the Franc ideally needs time in bottle to fully come together. Today it is very much on the reticent side.

The third vintage for this cuvée and brought up in 10% new puncheons (24 months with no malolactic fermentation), the 2019 W.S. Keyes Vineyard Chardonnay offers a vibrant, cooler style in its pear, stone fruits, caramelized citrus, and floral aromas and flavors. With plenty of background minerality, medium body, bright acidity, and a great finish, it will evolve for a decade.

The current releases I was able to taste were the 2017s, all of which were brought in prior to the fires. The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Bosché offers a classic 2017 elegant profile, and they managed the tannins nicely. The wine is medium to full-bodied and has terrific purity as well as notes of redcurrants, sandalwood, unsmoked tobacco, and spice. It's slighly more forward and sexy compared to the Sycamore Vineyard, but both of these are beautiful wines.

Sycamore is a clear leap up in intensity over the regular Freemark cab that isn’t all that regular. The rich black and red fruit have more muscle power and interesting savoury raspberry cedar veins that run through a spicy, dark chocolate cherry jam finish. Freemark has had exclusive sourcing rights to the Rutherford Bench fruit of the 24-acre Sycamore Vineyard for 40 years. In 2017 the mix was 88/5/4/3 cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, petit verdot and merlot, all aged 27 months in 74 percent new French oak. Winemaker Kristy Melton is knocking it out of the park at Freemark Abbey, adding elegance to what is now a modern Napa cab you can age 25 years.

Lush in texture and elegantly complex, with pomegranate and raspberry flavors that layer in notes of tarragon and black tea, finishing with dusky spice tannins. Drink now through 2030.

Dynamic and multilayered, with tiers of wild red berry, sandalwood and mineral laced with a hint of eucalyptus. Builds richness and tension on the way to refined tannins. Drink now through 2029.

Rich and fruity, featuring mineral-inflected raspberry, cherry tart and dried currant flavors that are buoyant and lightly creamed. Hints of cocoa powder emerge on the long, well-spiced finish. Drink now through 2024.

Resonant, with ripe spiciness to the broad, fleshy flavors of dark plum, blackberry and dark currant. The powerfully pure and well-knit finish lingers, featuring concentrated raspberry tart accents, backed by firm tannins. Best from 2021 through 2026.

Seeing 20/20 – Sonoma & Anderson Valley New ReleasesThe 2016 La Muse is a brooding, somber wine, just as it was en primeur. Black cherry, gravel, savory herbs, smoke, game, licorice and incense add a real feeling of gravitas that comes through in the wine's tannic heft. La Muse is often more showy when it is young, but the 2016 is going to require quite a bit of patience.

Seeing 20/20 – Sonoma & Anderson Valley New ReleasesThe 2017 Pinot Noir Pratt Vineyard-Sexton Road is one of the more exuberant and expressive wines in this range. Creamy, ample and inviting, the 2017 has so much going on. Sweet floral and spice notes add layers of complexity, but more than anything else, the 2017 is a wine of textural richness and breadth. The 2017 is just superb.

Seeing 20/20 – Sonoma & Anderson Valley New ReleasesThe 2018 Pinot Noir (Petaluma Gap) shows the savoriness and energy that are typical of this cool micro-climate. Lifted and precise, the 2018 is such a gorgeous and expressive wine. Sage, mint, tobacco, blood orange, rose petal and incense add myriad shades of nuance to this sculpted, beautifully taut Pinot.

Seeing 20/20 – Sonoma & Anderson Valley New ReleasesThe 2018 Chardonnay Seco Highlands is marked by soaring aromatic intensity and a weightless feel that is rather beguiling. Exotic white flowers, mint, lemon confit and white pepper are all beautifully lifted here. New oak is around 67%, but the wood is not at all noticeable. As always, this is one of the most distinctive wines in the range.

Seeing 20/20 – Sonoma & Anderson Valley New ReleasesThe 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Crown is a bold, powerful wine. Ample and broad, with tremendous depth, the 2016 is complex, nuanced and potent. Black cherry, menthol, licorice, chocolate and dark spice infuse the 2016 with tons of character. Dark and brooding, the 2016 will be even better in another few years' time.

Seeing 20/20 – Sonoma & Anderson Valley New ReleasesThe 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Smothers-Remick Ridge is such a classy, polished wine. Silky, exquisitely perfumed and just striking in its balance, the 2016 is a remarkably elegant wine. Succulent dark cherry, menthol, licorice, spice, tobacco and black olive all add energy and character.

Certified organic/biodynamic. Older barrels used for maturation. You can tell the impetus is tannin and structure here. Great drinking, great wine. Serious feeling but retains drinkability. Game meat, pecan nuttiness, very dark berries, bramble and wild herbs in ferrous earth, or something like that. A jumble of flavour all wrapped up tightly in a very firm weave of ribbons of Italianate tannins. Violets the clincher in perfume. Such a fantastic, brooding but come-hither red wine.

Silky and structured, with a vibrant core of acidity and polished tannins, enveloped by polished cherry and raspberry flavors and highlighted by loamy mineral and smoky spice notes. Drink now through 2028.

Intense cassis and plum reduction flavors form the base for this wine, with streaks of graphite, anise and roasted apple wood adding energy and cut throughout. Youthfully chunky now but well-built, with deeply embedded acidity in place to let everything meld fully. Best from 2024 through 2040.