Bright yellow. Pineapple, medicinal herbs and crushed rock on the nose. Very dense and tactile but less immediately fruity than the Upper Barn. Pineapple and grapefruit flavors are accompanied by strong saline and rocky elements. In a very dry style but broad, rich and long. The hardest of these chardonnays to taste today but a wine with considerable potential.

Pale, bright yellow. Initially closed nose opened to reveal steely, Puligny-like white peach, nutmeg, mint and crushed stone aromas. Dense but airy and dry; tactile and silky-smooth but with a lovely light touch. Today this very subtle young wine is showing more minerality than primary fruit. Finishes broad and weightless. Give this a couple years in the cellar. This stunning set of chardonnays made by winemaker Graham Weerts, who is from South Africa, was one of the revelations of my tastings of California wine this spring.

Bright ruby-red. High-toned, sexy aromas of black cherry, blueberry, licorice, graphite and sweet oak. Plush, sweet and pliant, with a wonderfully polished texture to the intense flavors of brambly dark berry, coffee and licorice. Finishes lush and very long, with building, fine-grained tannins and considerable elegance. This will be even better for five or six years in the cellar.

Medium ruby. Reticent but very pure aromas of blueberry, cassis, licorice and menthol. Shockingly rich and sweet but very young, showing superb concentration to its cassis flavor complemented by sexy oak tones. This really vibrates on the very long finish, where the wine's powerful mountain tannins are buried in fruit. Less showy today than the Howell Mountain cabernet but with outstanding long-term potential.

Good medium ruby. An essence of cabernet on the nose, with blackberry, licorice and floral aromas complicated by an exotic suggestion of fruity tropical chocolate. Then large-scaled, fat and sweet in the mouth, with highly concentrated black raspberry and chocolate flavors. The powerful mountain tannins coat the front teeth. Like a cabernet syrup today, in need of at least seven or eight years of aging and likely to be long-lived.

Good full ruby. Elemental, extremely primary nose features grapey blackberry, licorice and violet pastille. Big, sweet, broad and creamy; a huge, powerful wine with slightly rustic flavors of dark chocolate and minerals. Finishes with compelling sweetness of fruit, and very broad tannins that arrive late. From a block of vines that was recently torn out due to phylloxera. The richest of this trio of cabernets. Winemaker Chris Carpenter notes that the intention here is to make three wines of place by using neutral winemaking techniques. The only difference among the wines is maceration times, he added. All three of these bottlings are close to 15% alcohol.

The 2022 Chardonnay Bear Point is a straw/yellow hue and packs in more intensity on the nose, revealing notes of smoky wet stones, ripe peach, lemon oils, and salted pineapple. It’s fruity and ripe on the palate, with a full-bodied feel, and it has a kiss of sweet fruit through the finish. It has good definition and never feels cloying. Drink 2025-2035.

Mineral- and saline-edged aromas of flint, sliced lemon, grapefruit and lime zest. The palate is mid-weighted with bright acidity and a high-tension mouthfeel that finishes with underlying notes of yoghurt, orchard fruit and hazelnuts. A nicely balanced and focused chardonnay. Drink or hold.

Aromas of sliced lemons, orchard fruits and flint. The palate is mid-weighted with a creamy texture and focused acidity. There's a lovely density of fruit and freshness here, with plenty of immediate drinking pleasure. Drink or hold.

Aromas of dark cherries, blackberry bush, cassia bark, blood oranges and raspberries. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded mouthfeel and well-integrated tannins. Polished and focused, with a savory undertone. Drink or hold.

Bright and lifted aromas of raspberries, dark cherries, violets and citrus peel. The palate is medium-bodied with firmly framed tannins and balanced acidity. There's a nice energy here with a savory undertone. Drink or hold.

Bright and focused aromas of dried strawberries, confit cherry, violets and toffee apple. The palate is medium-bodied with bright acidity and fine-grained tannins that lead into a rounded and creamy mouthfeel. Nicely balanced with plenty of fruit. Drink or hold.

Aromas of confit lemon, shortbread biscuit, fresh pineapple and salted nuts. The palate is medium-bodied with bright acidity and a rounded, creamy texture, supported by bright acidity. Lovely balance and purity. Drink or hold.

The loamy soil and ripe black-berry aromas trigger happy summertime gardening memories. There also this interesting savory note floating about that reminds me of a cross between hoisin sauce and black pepper. The blackberry flavor is tart, and this time it is matched with earthy oregano and black tea. The tannins are firm, but not chewy.

This is very good Pinot Noir by any standard, though the quoted price of $85 (pulled from the website for the 2023 rendition rather than this 2022) may be pushing its luck by a bit. With that noted, it displays very good proportionality, with naturally sweet fruit notes (dark cherry first in line, as usual) set off very well by freshening acidity and fine-grained tannins, both of which come off as natural extensions of the fruit component rather than distinct elements that are “sticking out” in sensory terms. The wood employed during elevage is also very well integrated, making this a very successful wine. I doubt that anyone would fail to enjoy it thoroughly, even if they were the one picking up the check in a restaurant or being rung up at a retail cash register.

An impressive version, offering tangy tangerine, mango, citrus and melon flavors that are plump and expressive, with notes of orange sherbet, peach preserves and ginger, plus a touch of crème anglaise that adds to the feeling of richness. Vanilla and toast accents round out the profile. Drink now through 2033. 200 cases made.

The 2022 Siduri Pinot Noir from the Sta. Rita Hills delivers a layered and expressive profile that captures the windswept tension of the appellation. Raised in 25% new French oak over 10 months, it opens with a burst of ripe cranberry, dried hibiscus, and raspberry preserves, woven with flinty undertones and a trace of crushed seashell. The palate brings a supple yet structured frame, where notes of red currant and cherry compote unfold alongside hints of sassafras and graphite. There’s a savory pull beneath the fruit—think sun-dried herbs and dusty loam—that adds dimension and intrigue. Despite its density, the wine carries a cool-climate elegance with lifted acidity and a persistent mineral streak that refreshes through the finish. About 100 cases made

Started as an experiment in 2017, this is a terrific wine that far exceeds expectation of an entry-level offering. The Capensis 2022 Stellenbosch Silene Chardonnay is a medium- to full-bodied white with generous softness and volume to support aromas of orchard fruit, white flower and salty mineral. Graham Weerts refers to his winemaking philosophy as an "adapted Burgundian methodology." For example, he does not inoculate for malolactic fermentation, but 10% to 15% goes into a secondary spontaneous fermentation. "This is a South African twist on Burgundy," he says. All vineyard sites give lots of acidity. He also works on pressure and takes the best from whole-bunch pressing. The rest is sold off as bulk. The wine remains on the gross lees for up to 12 months, with stirring once a month. He creates a reductive environment "like a baby in the womb." Silene goes into bottle immediately, whereas the Capensis Chardonnay spends an additional six to eight months in stainless steel tank to "scar up," as he puts it. This is a release of 30,000 bottles.

The 2022 Cabernet Franc is 100% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-purple in color, it is a little youthfully subdued, slowly emerging from the glass with notes of baked red cherries, mulberries, and pencil shavings, plus touches of clove oil and fallen leaves. The full-bodied palate has a firm backbone of chewy tannins and bright acidity framing the berry preserves flavors, finishing savory.

The 2022 Malbec is 100% Malbec. Deep garnet-purple in color, it rockets out of the glass with powerful notes of baked blueberries, dark chocolate, and violets, leading to a core of preserved plums and spice box. The full-bodied palate is rich and juicy with a light chewiness to the texture and a lively line to give lift to the fruity finish.

The 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc, 1% Malbec, 1.5% Merlot, and 0.5% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-purple in color, notes of blueberry pie and prunes jump from the glass, leading to hints of Chinese five spice, unsmoked cigars, and cedar. The full-bodied palate is dense and chewy with a lively line and firm finish.

Quite light in color in the glass with a lovely, classical nose of wild strawberry and red rose. Beautiful on the palate as well with great fruit and minerality. For me, this is a classic rosé, fruit, acidity, balance, verve; it has it all

Taut and nervy, with lively notes of pine needle and savory that poke out from a core of gently mulled strawberry and raspberry fruit. A brisk oyster shell accent leaves a mouthwatering echo on the finish. For fans of the minerally style. Drink now through 2031.—J.M.

Piercing aromas and flavors of cherry, pomegranate, blackberry, violet, mineral and sweet spices mark this racy red. Solidly built, with dense, finely wrought tannins and a long, detailed aftertaste. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from 2027 through 2043.—B.S.

This red is sleek and engaging, offering cherry, raspberry, blackberry and mineral aromas and flavors. Harmonious, with beautifully integrated tannins and vibrant acidity. The finish is long and detailed. Sangiovese and Merlot. Drink now through 2038.—B.S.