Essentially a Rutherford-based cabernet sauvignon with minor roles played by franc, merlot and petit verdot for an overall perfectly reasoned, seasoned and spiced bit of classic wine film. Rich in ’17, tannic through alluvial chalky drive and a slight gravel overbite. Hard not to be seduced by the rugged beauty and hard to get at fruit zone out of a vintage that can be stubborn when it so chooses to be. Lay this down another year at the very minimum. Drink 2022-2027.

Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Seductive aromas of Bing cherry and oak spice. Light to mid-weight in richness, featuring flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and a hint of oak spice. Very fine grain tannins and upbeat acidity compliment the fruit core. Plenty of gentle goodness in a glamorous wine that exudes class.

Aromatically evolving now, if still somewhat smoky, the palate on Freemark Abbey's 2017 is yet still very firm and tightly wound, with a combination of gritty, dusty tannins, hard acids and high alcohol that combine to result in an astringent, unyielding texture. Despite the full body and 14.7% alcohol declared, the stuffing on the mid-palate is modest, exposing angularities and rough edges. Length and depth are decent, but overall harmony questionable. Another few years in the cellar should help to mitigate the asperities and disparities, but I suspect this will not be counted among the winery's more memorable vintages.

Displays a lovely purity of fragrant, fresh raspberry with mouth-watering pithy pomegranate, cranberry, al dente red cherry and cherrystone fruit, some grip/grit to the tannins and savoury undertones. Youthful as it looks, it’s lively in the mouth – energetic, with a coiled tension. And, though intense, the fruit cleaves close – with a certain sparseness and economy about it – as if to remind you, like the vines, it has staying power and will only get better! Layers of flavour unravel given time, with musk (dried roses), pepper, citrus orange peel and lavender inflections. The (natural) acid backbone, the tannins – sandy and mineral, sinewy and scratchy (thoroughly engaging) – make for a long, linear palate, with great persistence. Culminates with a sandpaper over the tongue quality to the finish. These gnarly old vines and this winemaking produces a long haul wine. Fraser reckons it starts opening up in 6-8 years (he mentioned that the 2013 & 2014 are just opening up, but still quite primary). At 8-10 years, he says it’s “very safe and covers off best of both worlds, but there’s no reason they will not go 20 plus in the right conditions from the best vintages.”

The cabernet shiraz blend – often labelled “claret” back in the day – is a classic Australian wine style, and this is a terrific example. It’s made entirely using grapes from the 50-year-old blocks of cabernet and shiraz planted at Clarendon, with Chris Carpenter looking after the cabernet and Peter Fraser the shiraz in the winery. The best barrels of each are then blended to produce this plush, generous, bold red wine, with dark purple fruit, hints of roasted mocha and mouth-coating tannins.

Made predominantly from a steep block of shiraz vines planted in 2002, with a third of the grapes from the older contour plantings. It’s a pretty, spicy, perfumed, modern expression of shiraz – arguably more “syrah” in style – beautifully poised and seductive. Unlike the other two wines reviewed here, both of which deserve to spend many years in the cellar to reveal their best, this young shiraz is dangerously ready to drink right now – although it will also age well.

Two-thirds of the grapes for this wine come from the 1971 contour plantings, with the rest from a block planted in 2002. I have a big soft spot for cabernet grown in the cooler parts of McLaren Vale, even though the region is far better known for its shiraz. When it’s really good, like this one is, McLaren Vale cabernet ranks among the best in the country: intense blackcurrant fruit characters, complex layers of dark savoury flavour, hints of graphite and iodine, and long, fine, grippy, bittersweet tannins.

Oh, this is flying. Condor style. Barely making an effort and making maximum ground. It's graceful and considered. Boom! Named The Peake after Edward John Peake who established the vineyard and orchard in Clarendon around 1850. The flagship wine of the Hickinbotham brand, in short, it's the best barrels of Brooks Road Shiraz and Trueman Cabernet (56/44).What a marriage this is. Dark chocolate, vanilla, dried herbs and cedar early. It possesses a wonderful presence, drive and powdery tannins. Just wow. Long and moreish it keeps throwing up pleasure in the form of dark cherries, black plums, even some Cherry Ripe appeal. Glorious, flirtatious, get me in.

Quite brutish and muscular, a Cabernet Franc that is bigger than I imagined to be honest. Some choc mint appeal, dried herbs, lots of black currants and dark plummy fruit. It's drying and the hefty oak plays its part here too. Over a couple of days it didn't budge too much but wines like this aren't built for now given the oak and acid tension. It's a wine I'd love to revisit in six to eight years.

So rich, complex and intense with a wealth of very ripe, powerful fruit on offer. Blood-orange and pomegranate notes, together with stony aromas, providing a very complex feel. The palate is super powerful and juicy. So very long, so rich and so well defined, showing mouthwatering tannins and a very sleek, long and juicy drive of red-fruit flavor. This has immense power and carries rich, ripe red and blue fruit. Wow. So intense. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

The finest game and wine pairings for elegant autumnal feastingWhile September isn’t the start of venison season, it’s such a classic game meat that knowing what to drink with it will always come in handy. Although leaner than beef it’s still a heavy red meat so will happily take on tannins in a wine, however they need to be silky and smooth in order not to feel mismatched on the palate.Right Bank Bordeaux, which is Merlot dominated, is always a great go-to as the variety is known for its ripe and luscious tannins. From the outstanding 2015 vintage which has given the concentration of fruit needed to match with the rich flavour of venison, this Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Château Lassègue has notes of ripe plum, black cherry liqueur, cassis, tea leaf and baking spices. A supremely velvety and unctuous wine.

Siduri Pinot Noir Rosella’s Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands 2017 delivers juicy, bright red fruits framed by pleasing acidity and oak and spice notes. Soft, pleasant, fresh, layered. All you expect from a Siduri/Adan Lee effort. You easily can enjoy this as a cocktail, solo pour, or matched with neutral wine crackers and/or a charcuterie board. Food pairing: salmon and other fatty fish; turkey, baked chicken; pork tenderloin; lamb chops, lighter cuts of beef, veal.

Bordeaux Right Bank + Sea BassIf you're familiar with France's iconic Bordeaux wine region, you'll know Saint-Émilion AOC on the right bank is established for its Merlot-dominant red blends. Nicolas Seillan is a seventh-generation vigneron and the general manager of Château Lassègue. "[My wife, Christina, and I] suggest our Saint-Émilion Grand Cru with a grilled sea bass and a side of oven-roasted chanterelle mushrooms," he says. Though most people think of pairing a red Bordeaux with meat, he notes a hearty fish is also excellent. "And in a way, Saint-Émilion with fish is going back to our roots, as the region was actually once covered by an ancient shallow sea," he shares. "The limestone with fossilized shellfish that was left behind when the sea retreated gives freshness to our wines sourced from the limestone and clay hillsides."

Sauvignon Blanc + Pork LoinThis white wine is well known for its crisp acidity, making it a versatile pairing just about any time of year. "Originating in the Loire Valley of France, Sauvignon Blanc…is an ideal wine for autumn as we transition from light summer fare to heartier fall meals," La Crema chef Tracey Shepos Cenami says. Right now, she's craving pork loin. "While many think of Pinot Noir as the go-to pairing for pork, the signature acidity of Sauvignon Blanc balances the fattiness of the pork, and the herbs in this dish harmonize with the zesty nature of the wine."

This white gold colored Chardonnay opens with a great nose featuring lemon and oak with a hint of honeydew melon. On the palate, this wine is full bodied and slightly acidic. It also round, well-balanced, and lush. The flavor profile is a lemon and green tea blend with notes of subtle minerality, and oak. We also detected hints of pineapple and coconut. The finish is dry, and its flavors fade away nicely. This excellent Chard was enjoyed by everyone who tried it. It would pair well with a chicken ravioli with wild mushrooms with a light cream sauce.

Soft and lacy to start and highlighted by dark fruits and plums, but there is some oak here to negotiate. Not many people would reach for a straight Merlot out there in retail land, but if you do, this may inject some enthusiasm into the variety for you. Roasted capsicum, cedar and vanilla muse on a medium bodied delivery. Drying to finish, it leaves the mouth puckering as spices linger on a persistent finish.

A bit of bold if the night turns cold - Good old GrenacheAs much as we’d like to think the winter chill is behind us, nature does tend to remind us every now and again of the season past. If that’s the case, bust out a bottle of the 2018 Yangarra ‘High Sands’ Grenache from McLaren Vale.Purchased in 2001 after falling in awe of the gnarly old bush vines of the property, Californian wine pioneers Jackson Family Wines promptly appointed local guns Pete Fraser as winemaker and Michael Lane as viticulturer. Yangarra’s combination of ancient geology, higher altitude and Mediterranean climate provide the ideal growing conditions for the best grape varieties of the southern Rhône.This allows expert craftspeople to use individual barrels to showcase the pedigree of the deep sand, with lifted fragrance, intense fruit expression and fine, gritty long tannin structure going into the final wine.This brings an intense ruby colour, bright and clear throughout the glass. Wine gums, dry earth and wakame on the nose. The palate is medium in weight but full in power. Fruit sits with depth, but the tannin profile is something special in its intensity and grip.This wine sits with ease at the pinnacle of Australian Grenache, rubbing shoulders with the best the world has to offer such as Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Priorat. This is a wine for contemplation and joy!Drink with roast duck and plum sauce, or any darker meat based Asian dishes ~ Just mind the chili level, as the alcohol will interfere a touch! As the saying goes, best not to fight fire with fire….Coming out of hibernation, you’re ready to drink now but don’t fear if you need to chuck this in the cellar for a bit to really bring out its full character.It’s a bit at the higher end at $200, but one to cherish.

McLaren Vale Cabernet smashing the ceiling. Woah, this is something. This site was planted in 1971 and sits 155-233m above sea level. The fruit was cold soaked, saw 17 days on skins and spent time in new and used French oak. Swirl the glass and absorb the scents. From the outset, you know you have a serious wine on your hands. Cigar box, cedar, wood smoke and wallet leather - come at me. It speaks of class, balance and poise. A blanket of powdery pillows of tannin is draped across the palate. A measured wine, there is some power yet it walks with grace. But that length. That mouthfeel. It's just brilliant! Cabernet lovers ought to go here and bow.

Ambitiously priced it may be, but there's no denying the quality of pan-Cape Chardonnay from the Klein Karoo, Overberg, Stellenbosch and Robertson. The oak is a little smoky, but the palate is racy, dense and structured, with impressive extract, lees and baking spice notes and a core of minerality.

Bliss. A lovely drink. Dancy, vibrant and mischievous, the fruit sings louder the longer it sits in the glass.Coming off 70+ year old unirrigated vines that are certified organic and biodynamic, blueberries, red cherries and sour cherries muse with ease. Dangerously sleek spices are delicate and captivating. A slash of mandarin, a lemony tang and earthiness all add layers of interest. A small step back from the super impressive 2019 release mind you, it's a great Grenache no less. It's worth noting the RRP has gone up 20% on the previous vintage.

Fijnbosch is a single-site Chardonnay from clay-rich soils in the Banghoek Valley, deliberately released with a little bottle age. Honeyed, textured and well structured, it combines stone fruit sweetness with a mineral core, subtle reduction and some toasty oak.

Showing some Californian influence from its American owners, this two-site Stellenbosch Chardonnay has flavours of toffee fudge, sweet vanilla spices and beeswax, supported by good creamy texture and a racy, refreshing finish. Better balanced than the 2018.

Silene is the richest and most immediate of the current Capensis releases, with plenty of texture and weight. Sweet pastry and peach flavours are supported by fresh acidity and framed by spicy, toasty oak.

Roussanne a strong suit for Yangarra. Slippery texture, ripe apple, cashew nut, cookie dough characters and some corn juice going on. Really good slide then grip to texture, a flavoursome white wine with lots to experience and sink one’s teeth into. Mojo is high. Delightful drinking.

A mix of blocks, older French oak of varying sizes. Giving shiraz a full orchestra of opportunity. Chewy, medium weight, a little slippery, dark fruited, woody spiced example here. Has lots of ripe attributes but manages a sense of freshness too. Feels very dictionary definition of ‘good McLaren Vale shiraz’. Will win an armada of fans.