Ruby-red. Brooding, perfumed aromas of dark fruits, violet and chocolate. Sweet and intensely flavored, with lively acids framing the currant, black raspberry, mineral and dark chocolate flavors. Very densely packed wine, with the sheer material to support its big, ripe tannins. Give this plenty of aeration if you plan to open a bottle anytime soon. Or, better yet, lay it down for six to eight years.
Dark ruby-red. Black cherry, mocha and licorice on the nose. Ripe, broad and dry; suave and sophisticated. Flavors of red berries lifted by floral and mineral components. Densely packed, backward wine, finishing with substantial dusty tannins.
Bright medium ruby. Vibrant aromas of crushed cassis, bitter cherry, licorice and leather. Youthfully tight yet already quite penetrating; today the wine's licorice and fresh herb notes dominate its underlying dark fruit flavors. More backward than the 2011 La Muse, even austere today
Bright yellow. Pineapple, medicinal herbs and crushed rock on the nose. Very dense and tactile but less immediately fruity than the Upper Barn. Pineapple and grapefruit flavors are accompanied by strong saline and rocky elements. In a very dry style but broad, rich and long. The hardest of these chardonnays to taste today but a wine with considerable potential.
Pale, bright yellow. Initially closed nose opened to reveal steely, Puligny-like white peach, nutmeg, mint and crushed stone aromas. Dense but airy and dry; tactile and silky-smooth but with a lovely light touch. Today this very subtle young wine is showing more minerality than primary fruit. Finishes broad and weightless. Give this a couple years in the cellar. This stunning set of chardonnays made by winemaker Graham Weerts, who is from South Africa, was one of the revelations of my tastings of California wine this spring.
Bright ruby-red. High-toned, sexy aromas of black cherry, blueberry, licorice, graphite and sweet oak. Plush, sweet and pliant, with a wonderfully polished texture to the intense flavors of brambly dark berry, coffee and licorice. Finishes lush and very long, with building, fine-grained tannins and considerable elegance. This will be even better for five or six years in the cellar.
Medium ruby. Reticent but very pure aromas of blueberry, cassis, licorice and menthol. Shockingly rich and sweet but very young, showing superb concentration to its cassis flavor complemented by sexy oak tones. This really vibrates on the very long finish, where the wine's powerful mountain tannins are buried in fruit. Less showy today than the Howell Mountain cabernet but with outstanding long-term potential.
Good medium ruby. An essence of cabernet on the nose, with blackberry, licorice and floral aromas complicated by an exotic suggestion of fruity tropical chocolate. Then large-scaled, fat and sweet in the mouth, with highly concentrated black raspberry and chocolate flavors. The powerful mountain tannins coat the front teeth. Like a cabernet syrup today, in need of at least seven or eight years of aging and likely to be long-lived.
Good full ruby. Elemental, extremely primary nose features grapey blackberry, licorice and violet pastille. Big, sweet, broad and creamy; a huge, powerful wine with slightly rustic flavors of dark chocolate and minerals. Finishes with compelling sweetness of fruit, and very broad tannins that arrive late. From a block of vines that was recently torn out due to phylloxera. The richest of this trio of cabernets. Winemaker Chris Carpenter notes that the intention here is to make three wines of place by using neutral winemaking techniques. The only difference among the wines is maceration times, he added. All three of these bottlings are close to 15% alcohol.
Made from 100% Pinot Noir that was completely destemmed and aged just three months in
neutral barrels, the 2024 Pinot Noir boasts a ruby, semi-opaque color and gives up juicy
blackberry, mulberries, peppery herbs, and sappy, floral-driven notes. Medium-bodied, pure, and
juicy on the palate, it has an incredibly supple, seamless mouthfeel, nicely integrated acidity, and
ripe tannins. This is one heck of a value, offering plenty of richness and ripeness while staying
balanced, light on its feet, and weightless. Drink 2025-2030.
Based on 100% Syrah that was not destemmed and was aged in neutral barrels, the 2023 Syrah Perilune is medium to full-bodied, bright and juicy, with cool-climate black and blue fruits, pepper, sappy green herbs, and sage. It's fresh, focused, has ripe yet present tannins, and outstanding length. Give it a year or two to round into form and enjoy bottles over the following decade. Drink 2026-2036.
A pure Swartland Syrah from three blocks on the granite-dominated soils of the
Jakkalsfontein vineyard, this was fermented with 20% whole bunches before ageing in
neutral oak. Structured, racy, pure and intense, it has layers of clove, pepper and hot
stones and a core of blackberry and liquorice. 2
Silene uses grapes from three comparatively cool sites in Stellenbosch and is the cheapest
of Capensis' outstanding range of Chardonnays. Fermented in 30% new oak, as well as
Austrian foudres, it has subtle wood spices, some cream from full malolactic, peach and
citrus fruit flavours and a balanced finish.
The 2024 Viognier Tepusquet Vineyard has tons of character. Exuberant floral top notes, perfumed orchard fruit and deep mineral tension join together in harmonious fashion, while mouthwatering acids enliven the finish. The 2024 boasts truly impressive complexity for the variety. Very well done.
Supple yet elegantly structured, offering savory ripeness. The vibrant acidity is framed by raspberry, guava, orange peel and dusky spice notes as this gathers richness and focus on the finish. Drink now through 2033.
The 2024 Chardonnay is, yet again, a gorgeous, singular wine with so much regional identity and soul, especially at its ridiculously low price point. There's fabulous weight and density here, eschewing varietal signature in favor of floral lift, creamy, oily yet weightless textures, and a long, salt-lick of a finish. This is such an impressively high-quality wine at this scale of production (40,000 cases).
The 2023 Pinot Noir Perilune delivers lifted red fruit, cranberry, spice and blood orange tones. Suave and sophisticated, it washes across the palate with precision and breadth, finishing cleanly with a marine-inflected note of Japanese nori. This is very classic Sta. Rita Hills, accented by an extra push of bright fruit.
The 2023 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills) is open-knit,
The 2023 Chardonnay Hapgood opens with bright, focused, crystalline aromas of grapefruit peel, lemon oil, chalk and white flowers. Saline energy accelerates down the centerline of the mid-palate, driven by a spine of tense, focused acidity. The balance here is unquestionable.
Sweetly aromatic with freshness and florality, with cherries, some green herbal hints and a touch of tar. The palate is very bright with a juicy quality to the sweet berry and cherry fruit, with some silkiness as well as a hint of greenness on the finish. Powerful but still vibrant.
Nice dense, sweet spicy berry and cherry fruits. Has some warmth with a touch of blackcurrant character. Dense and quite well structured with a core of sweet fruit and some warm, slightly dusty spiciness on the finish, which is a little warm. Developing in a nice way.
The 2023 Old Vine Riesling Hyland Vineyard opens with compact aromas of petrol, candied lime, preserved peach, honey, and wet stones. Dry and medium-bodied, it offers a vibrant core of acidity, with mouthwatering saline and plenty of length through the finish. It’s a very impressive Riesling that’s compelling now but also has the ability to age at least another decade. Drink 2025-2040.
A bright red color, the 2023 Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard is a ripe and generous wine, with spice accents that frame the wine beautifully. Ripe cherries, smoky earth, cedar, and pressed flowers lift from the glass. Medium-bodied, it offers chalky tannins and a graceful finish. It’s highly appealing now and should drink well over the coming decade.
From the Eola-Amity Hills, the 2023 Pinot Noir Zena Crown is a total charmer with a fruity and floral nature. Fresh blackberries, crushed roses, mocha, and crushed stones emerge from the glass. Medium to full-bodied, it has a rounded texture, with all its primary fruit remaining pure and lasting on the finish. It's delightful now and should continue to drink well for another 12-15 years.
The 2022 Chardonnay Yamhill-Carlton shows off a more savory profile, with notes of chamomile, yellow apples, lemon balm, and Parmesan. Frost-affected fruit in 2022 brought extra concentration. Medium-bodied and focused, it gains honey and butterscotch notes as it opens, and it’s chalky and energetic on the palate. Drink 2025-2035.