The 2018 Syrah Sea Lift is fabulous. Inky dark fruit, black cherry, plum, chocolate, licorice, spice, sage and menthol build in a powerful, deep Syrah endowed with tremendous character.

The 2018 Syrah Hawkes Butte is once again one of the most distinctive wines in the range. Inky dark fruit, black pepper, sage, lavender and spice all run through this super-expressive Syrah. The 2018 is rich and unctuous but also not at all heavy. It is incredibly singular and full of character.

The 2018 Chardonnay Brosseau, from the famed vineyard in the Chalone AVA, is fabulous. Dried flowers, sage, mint, chamomile and graphite give the Brosseau its distinctly savory, mineral personality. Structure, acid and soil tones dominate this rich, full-bodied Chardonnay, while the fruit is very much in the background.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Stormin' is the most exuberant wine in the range. It shows terrific depth and density, while remaining transparent and light on its feet. Dark red/purplish berry fruit, rose petal, lavender, spice and mint build in this expansive, beautifully expressive Pinot. A dollop of whole clusters (7%) adds a touch of character without being especially evident.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Sealift, from a site in Annapolis, is bold, juicy and so expressive. Red/purplish berry fruit, spice, rose petal and dried herbs are some of the many notes than run through the Sealift. A wine of energy and nuance, the 2018 has so much to offer. A healthy dose of whole clusters add character as well as nuance. This is very nicely done.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Edmeades is gorgeous. The blend of Calera, Swan and Dijon clones on low vigor soils works so well here. Pliant and silky, with striking depth, the 2018 has so much character. Red/bluish-hued fruit, spice, orange peel and mint give the Edmeades an effusive beauty that is impossible to miss. All the elements come together in an Anderson Valley Pinot that hits all the right notes.

The 2018 Chardonnay Sky Crest captures all of the intensity of Anderson Valley. Rich and exuberant, the 2018 possesses terrific depth, with plenty of baked apple tart, pineapple, yellow flowers and tropical character. Even with all of its exuberance, the 2018 retains terrific freshness.

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Smothers-Remick Ridge is another striking wine in this range. Bold and punchy in the glass, with tons of savory/earthy character, the 2017 has a lot going on. Cedar, sweet pipe tobacco, menthol, licorice and wild cherry all run through the 2017. This Sonoma Valley site is one of the most distinctive sites in California, as are the wines.

It would not take long to count the number of still white Pinot Noirs that I have tried (the sparkling ones, naturally, would take a whole lot longer), but this is the second I have tried in as many weeks. Slightly golden straw in the glass with lovely aromas of peach, pear, white acacia, and ginger spice. The palate is deliciously balanced between the subtle fruit and racy acidity. Although the information about this wine is rather scant, I did discover that it spent nine months in neutral oak, which has no doubt softened that tartness just a touch. Lovely wine. Outstanding.

The 2019 White Pinot Noir is a tiny cuvée of just six barrels off a single block on the property. It is Pinot Noir vinified off the skins (like Blanc de Noir in Champagne). Textured and nuanced the White Pinot Noir is aged in neutral oak. Dried orchard fruit, spice and dried flowers are some of the many notes that grace this quirky yet absolutely delicious white.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Unforgettable is built on texture and creaminess. It offers a bit more mid-palate structure than some of the other wines in the range. The mix of mostly Pommard and Wadensvil clones works so well here. Silky and open-knit, the 2018 can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Abel is a pliant, supple wine with lovely mid-palate presence. Succulent red berry fruit, spice, orange peel and mint are all laced together. The 2018 offers a striking balance of energy and depth. There is something incredibly exotic about the 2018 that is quite appealing. The Abel was aged 16 months in barrel.

The 2018 Red Blend Prequel, a Syrah-based blend from vineyards in Sonoma, is a total knockout that makes such a strong statement as to the potential of Sonoma County. Dark, bold and savory, the Prequel offers a fabulous mix of fruit intensity and savoriness.

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Vales Edge is bright, punchy and full of character. This mid-weight Cabernet from a site on the Alexander Valley/Chalk Hill border is effusive and so inviting. Sweet red cherry, spice, mint, sage, blood orange and lavender give the 2017 striking purity and character. Drink it over the next decade.

The 2018 Syrah High Rock Ranch emerges from a site at 1,200 feet in elevation. Bright red berry fruit, iron, dried flowers, chalk, mint and white pepper inform this taut, savory Syrah. There is maybe a bit less body than in some of the other wines, but more than enough persistence to compensate.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Côte Bannie, from site in the Petaluma Gap, shows the wilder side of Pinot. Game, black pepper, iron, licorice, mint and dried flowers give the Côte Bannie a distinctly Syrah-like character. This is an eccentric wine but has just enough fruit depth to balance things out.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Maggy Hawk shows a different side of Anderson Valley. There is lovely savoriness and energy, and maybe a bit less fruit than in some of the other wines. A whole range of floral and spice notes lend complexity as well as persistence.

The 2019 Trousseau Copain Estate is another absolutely exquisite wine in the range. Bright red berry fruit, orange peel, cinnamon, pine and amaro herbs infuse the 2019 with striking aromatic complexity and nuance. Translucent and so expressive, the Trousseau is a winner. The 2019 is a blend of fruit from the Copain estate and a second site in Anderson Valley.

The 2018 Chardonnay Les Voisins is rich, open-knit and seductive. Apricot, peach and light tropical accents all elevate this creamy Anderson Valley Chardonnay. Bright saline notes underpin the finish, nicely balancing some of the more overt leanings.

The 2018 Red Blend is a bold, juicy wine driven by a core of Petite Sirah that gives it richness and unctuous texture. Ripe red cherry, red plum, mocha, licorice and spice are all kicked up in this flashy, juicy Napa Valley red.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Afleet is one of the wines in this range that has a bit more whole clusters than some of the others. Dried flowers, mint, crushed berries, sage and orange peel give the 2018 lovely aromatic complexity. The Afleet is a bit stern in feel.

The 2018 Pinot Noir Tous Ensemble is a fabulous entry-level wine. Bright floral and spice notes complement a core of red berry fruit in a mid-weight, translucent Pinot that hits all the right notes. The 2018 is built on a core of fruit from Sealift in Annapolis. It is one of the very best Pinots readers will find in its price range. The 2018 is a knock out.

The 2019 Picpoul Blanc Copain Estate is a gorgeous white that balances the bright energy of this variety from southern France with the natural exuberance of the Russian River. White orchard fruit, mint and white flowers add a very pretty aromatic upper register. This eccentric white has a lot to offer.

The 2018 Syrah Tous Ensemble is an attractive, affordable wine that delivers the goods. Readers will find a Syrah that delivers the savory, earthy style that is so typical of Mendocino. Vineyard sites are High Rock and Hawkes Butte. The Tous Ensemble is a bit rustic, but long on character.

The 2018 Grenache Brosseau is a bright, punchy wine. Sweet red cherry, hard candy, orange peel and sweet spice give the 2018 a decidedly exotic character.