Good full ruby. Elemental, extremely primary nose features grapey blackberry, licorice and violet pastille. Big, sweet, broad and creamy; a huge, powerful wine with slightly rustic flavors of dark chocolate and minerals. Finishes with compelling sweetness of fruit, and very broad tannins that arrive late. From a block of vines that was recently torn out due to phylloxera. The richest of this trio of cabernets. Winemaker Chris Carpenter notes that the intention here is to make three wines of place by using neutral winemaking techniques. The only difference among the wines is maceration times, he added. All three of these bottlings are close to 15% alcohol.
Darker, plusher, and more rounded than many of the producer's other Pinots, the 2023 Pinot Noir Stormin is richly woven in earthy dark cherry, wild strawberry, and forest floor, with well-balanced acidity and tannins. It takes on complex additional notes of sweet oak and vanilla bean that add to the medium-bodied appeal and length. Drink now through 2033.
With more concentration and rounder tannins than some of the producer's more delicate wines, the 2023 Pinot Noir Unforgettable Estate Vineyard is high-toned in cranberry but finds its most defining characteristic to be forest and earth, very much etched in what surrounds it than any kind of fruit. There's length and breadth across the midpalate and medium-bodied weight, the intensity of the wine undeniable. Truly lovely. Drink now through 2035.
With the addition of 9% Sauvignon Blanc, this stainless steel–fermented Pinot Gris pours on the charm. Enhancing a heady perfume of citrus such as yuzu, herbs including lemon basil and mint, and lemon blossom, lychee springs into action on a palate so buoyant it practically floats, laced with touches of white peach and other orchard fruits.
The 2022 Gran Moraine Pinot Noir from Yamhill-Carlton offers a medium-bodied profile defined by its supple texture and polished, fine-grained tannins. Aged in 43% new French oak, the wine presents an energetic core of pomegranate and macerated red currants accented by nuances of purple peony and toasted unsweetened marshmallow. The palate is underpinned by a vibrant acid line that carries these concentrated fruit flavors through a silky, expansive mid-palate. This is a harmonious expression that balances its structural tension with a lush, persistent finish. Almost 5000 cases produced.
The 2023 Penner-Ash Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir from Yamhill-Carlton opens with a brooding profile of marionberry and blueberry accented by dusty country road, wet clay, and a touch of citrus zest. Its medium-to-full-bodied frame is defined by a deep, savory spice cabinet where notes of cardamom and clove weave through a core of black raspberry. This expression is notably structured, featuring present tannins that lend a firm grip to the mid-palate. Vibrant acidity cuts through the darker fruit elements, maintaining freshness as it transitions into a lingering, mineral-flecked finish.
The 2023 Penner-Ash Old Vine Riesling from McMinnville is defined by its electric, high-toned acidity and a light-bodied frame that remains surprisingly supple on the palate. Sourced from established vines, the wine leads with a stony, linear tension that carries succulent notes of white peach and green apple skin. Tropical nuances of golden kiwi and Meyer lemon zest emerge through the mid-palate, transitioning seamlessly into a long, aromatic finish. A classic touch of wet slate and a faint whisper of petrol add varietal complexity to the finish. 343 cases made.
Handsomely built and intense at the core, with lilting flavors of raspberry and guava
accented by green tea and fresh violet. Finishes with fine-grained tannins. Drink now
through 2035.
Densely structured yet retains its richness and style, with layered flavors of blueberry and
raspberry laced with crushed stone and dusky spice tones as this builds tension and
tannins on the finish. Best from 2027 through 2035.
The nose of this spicy Zin leads with aromas of spiced raspberry compote, accented by purple flowers, cinnamon, and dry cocoa. The palate gives flavors of freshly crushed cherry, licorice, and cracked pepper framed by rich tannin. Best from 2028.
Ripe raspberry, concentrated cherry, and lemon zest aromas waft from the glass on the nose of this wine. The palate balances zippy acid and plush tannin with flavors of berry coulis, plum jam, cinnamon, and flowers that linger for over a minute on the finish. Drink this just because you can.
Bombastic aromas of black plum jam, boysenberry, and dark chocolate highlight the nose of this wine. The palate balances rich tannin and zesty acidity with flavors of baked cherry, anise, cinnamon, and purple flowers all along the finish.
Deep, concentrated aromas of black currant confiture, boysenberry pie, allspice, orange sherbet and toasty vanilla arise on the nose of this wine. The palate delivers ripe strawberry-pomegranate, rhubarb, orange vanilla cream, cardamom, and a dry finish with grippy tannins. Cellar until 2035 or aerate and enjoy.
Sobranes is a site that abuts Garys’ site, and is farmed by the same families, Pisoni and Franscioni. This is a 667 clone that comes from two blocks, one upper and one below. Matt uses about 10% whole cluster here; it's an accent, not the star. It helps give spice, grip, and tannin to the fruit-centric wines from Sobranes, 25% new French oak for 10 months. Gravel dust, rose petals and sea salt. Ripe boysenberry, and saline, gravelly freshness.
Rosella's from a really mild vintage here; this was picked in early to mid-October. Floral and bright, yet beguilingly intense on the nose. This was from an old block of 828 clone Pinot Noir, with a little bit of lower-slope 115 clones; it sees 14 months in 40% new French oak. Lighter, even Chardonnay-like toasting, intense power, and a core of saline and savoury herbs. Ripe on the palate, with dark berries, smoky Moroccan spice, and crushed stone, with a roasted sea salt finish.
This is from the more elegant vintage. Sobranes bottling comes from Sobranes, a site that abuts Garys'667 clone, which comes from two blocks, one upper and one below. Matt uses about 10% whole cluster. It shows an intensity with dried strawberry fruit leather, candied raspberries, loaded with sea salt and a silken tannin. Delicious and complex with savoury flavours that last a long time.
This wine is a unicorn, it was only made once, in the 2023 vintage, given its elegance, a nod to the regional farmers, the founding winemakers and the long-time fans of Siduri. Elegance abounds with rose petals, smoke and gravelly dust. Salty and sage-driven, with loads of red bramble fruits and amaro herbals.
Garys' is a rare combination of power with balanced acids. There is plenty of juicy fruits, with savoury tannin and the region's signature smoked sea salt. 15% whole cluster 14 months in about 40% new French oak. It's a ripe and bold wine in many ways, given accents of floral and salty minerality that give it a nice crunch and structure. There's plenty of freshness here that balances the region's fruit and power.
From an old-vine, coolclimate vineyard near the Pacific Ocean, this wine offers aromas of red plum, Bing cherry, strawberry, red currant, allspice, and sedimentary rock. Rich flavors on the palate deliver red stone fruit, raspberry, strawberry, plum, and crushed rock throughout the palate. The 2023 vintage in California is one to buy and cherish, Cellar until 2035, or decant and enjoy.
This Zin brings aromas of crushed red raspberry, licorice, and cherry liqueur on the nose. The palate offers zippy acidity and plush tannin, with flavors of berry coulis, purple flowers, and cinnamon on the finish.
Concentrated aromas of red raspberry, cherry liqueur, spiced plum, and toasty spices jump from the glass on the nose of this wine. The palate delivers plush tannin, balanced acid, and flavors of plum compote, cherry skin, licorice, and purple flowers before a long and supple finish.
Originally conceived as a project focused solely on Chardonnay, Capensis has now
introduced its first red wine, the Capensis 2023 Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Silene,
which I tasted at the Cape Town 2025 wine fair. Sourced from Helderberg, located between
Somerset West and False Bay, the wine is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot
and 6% Cabernet Franc, though it is varietally labeled as Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark fruit
flavors are layered with light spice and a subtle note of grilled herbs or lavender, all carried
by the freshness that defines this maritime-influenced site. Aged for 14 months in French
oak with 35% new wood, the wine reflects a season marked by significant rainfall in 2023,
making careful vineyard work essential on the Helderberg’s wind-cooled slopes and welldrained decomposed granite soils.
Evolving into its own distinct identity within the portfolio, the Capensis 2023 Stellenbosch
Silene Chardonnay reveals zippy acidity, bright tropical fruit and a strong sense of
freshness. The winemaking mirrors the established Capensis approach, with élevage in
larger-format foudre and new vessels being introduced from Stockinger. There is an
immediate reductive snap on opening, reinforcing the wine’s tension and energy, while the
maritime influence and decomposed granite soils of Stellenbosch contribute clarity.
Production will drop in 2024 due to wind damage during flowering. The 2023 vintage proved
terrific for whites, thanks to later ripening conditions, though the season’s rainfall made it
more challenging for red varieties.
Most of the grapes were sourced from vineyards with a maritime influence in Stellenbosch,
producing a Chardonnay that has a fresh aroma with subtle fruit notes and a hint of
saltiness. These saline notes carry through on the palate, where they blend with flavors of
peaches and hints of flowers. The long finish is elevated by herbal touches. Sovereign Wine
Imports. —J.V
Dark and packed with black cherry, blackberry, cassis, iron and tobacco flavors, this red reveals the muscular side of Chianti Classico from a hot, dry vintage. Dissolves into a ripe, well-balanced aftertaste, with a lasting impression of sweet fruit. Sangiovese and Merlot. Best from 2028 through 2043.