Bright medium ruby. Vibrant aromas of crushed cassis, bitter cherry, licorice and leather. Youthfully tight yet already quite penetrating; today the wine's licorice and fresh herb notes dominate its underlying dark fruit flavors. More backward than the 2011 La Muse, even austere today
Bright yellow. Pineapple, medicinal herbs and crushed rock on the nose. Very dense and tactile but less immediately fruity than the Upper Barn. Pineapple and grapefruit flavors are accompanied by strong saline and rocky elements. In a very dry style but broad, rich and long. The hardest of these chardonnays to taste today but a wine with considerable potential.
Pale, bright yellow. Initially closed nose opened to reveal steely, Puligny-like white peach, nutmeg, mint and crushed stone aromas. Dense but airy and dry; tactile and silky-smooth but with a lovely light touch. Today this very subtle young wine is showing more minerality than primary fruit. Finishes broad and weightless. Give this a couple years in the cellar. This stunning set of chardonnays made by winemaker Graham Weerts, who is from South Africa, was one of the revelations of my tastings of California wine this spring.
Bright ruby-red. High-toned, sexy aromas of black cherry, blueberry, licorice, graphite and sweet oak. Plush, sweet and pliant, with a wonderfully polished texture to the intense flavors of brambly dark berry, coffee and licorice. Finishes lush and very long, with building, fine-grained tannins and considerable elegance. This will be even better for five or six years in the cellar.
Medium ruby. Reticent but very pure aromas of blueberry, cassis, licorice and menthol. Shockingly rich and sweet but very young, showing superb concentration to its cassis flavor complemented by sexy oak tones. This really vibrates on the very long finish, where the wine's powerful mountain tannins are buried in fruit. Less showy today than the Howell Mountain cabernet but with outstanding long-term potential.
Good medium ruby. An essence of cabernet on the nose, with blackberry, licorice and floral aromas complicated by an exotic suggestion of fruity tropical chocolate. Then large-scaled, fat and sweet in the mouth, with highly concentrated black raspberry and chocolate flavors. The powerful mountain tannins coat the front teeth. Like a cabernet syrup today, in need of at least seven or eight years of aging and likely to be long-lived.
Good full ruby. Elemental, extremely primary nose features grapey blackberry, licorice and violet pastille. Big, sweet, broad and creamy; a huge, powerful wine with slightly rustic flavors of dark chocolate and minerals. Finishes with compelling sweetness of fruit, and very broad tannins that arrive late. From a block of vines that was recently torn out due to phylloxera. The richest of this trio of cabernets. Winemaker Chris Carpenter notes that the intention here is to make three wines of place by using neutral winemaking techniques. The only difference among the wines is maceration times, he added. All three of these bottlings are close to 15% alcohol.
Equal parts fruity and savory. Lavender, sage and blackberry aromas. Full-bodied. A blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre. Drink or hold.
A fresh, bright, light-bodied wine with aromas of orange peel, white flowers and orange zest. Snappy and mouthwatering. A perfect summer red. Drink now. Screw cap.
A fresh, light-bodied white blend with aromas of jasmine, white peaches and basil. Bright, crisp and delicious. A great value. Screw cap.
A lemony, chalky, medium-bodied wine with pleasing density of bubbles and a clean finish that carries flavors of sliced pears, green apples and white blossoms. Drink or hold.
An herbal, light-bodied, Loire-inspired wine with crunchy acidity, aromas of savory herbs and iron-like minerality. Violets in the finish. Drink or hold.
From a site on Olivet Road that was once a Zinfandel vineyard, the 2024 Pinot Noir Barbieri
Vineyard pours a more magenta-toned red color while remaining clear and is a very
different animal stylistically. Blue fruit tones shine here alongside suede, mossy earth, and
lavender. Medium-bodied, it has snappy zest, ripe tannins, and a more angular feel, though
lushness wraps around it nicely. There is a lot to enjoy over the next 10-12 years. Drink 2026-
2038.
Pouring a pale platinum/yellow color, the 2024 Sauvignon Blanc Taylor Peak Vineyard is
delicately flinty with lime oils, salted pineapple, and restrained tropical fruit. Mediumbodied, it has a complete, layered feel with vibrant acidity, excellent complexity, and very
long persistence. Drink 2026-2032.
The 2023 Pinot Noir Saralee's Vineyard is a medium ruby red color and reveals expressive
aromas of wild red berries, wildflowers, raspberries, and baked earth. Medium-bodied, it has
fine tannins, pleasing sweet spice, and refreshing acidity. Drink over the next 10-12 years.
Medium ruby in color, the 2023 Pinot Noir Fog Veil comes from a neighborhood collection of
estate vineyards within a half mile of one another on the Santa Rosa Plain, where the dense
soils force the vines to struggle for depth. Potpourri, wild strawberries, sweet spice, and
fresh violets emerge aromatically. Medium-bodied, it has zesty lift, fine tannins, and spice
on the close. Drink over the coming decade.
Coming from this late, cool vintage, the 2023 Chardonnay Saralee's Vineyard is largely estate
based and pours a bright yellow color. Pineapple, lemon curd, honey, and delicate baking
spice emerge aromatically. Full-bodied, with a creamy texture, it’s balanced by bright acidity
and a clean, lifted finish. It’s salty, appealing, and very nicely done. Enjoy it now or over the
next 4-6 years.
The 2023 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard is more intense and savory all around, with brothy
depth, apricot, orange blossom, creamy custard richness, and saline complexity. Full-bodied,
it has phenolic depth and textured skins that bring additional structure and length. Drink
2027-2037.
Coming from the Far Coast Vineyard, the 2021 Syrah Outer Limits has a very appealing fruitforward nose with savory notes woven seamlessly into the framework. A youthful, deep
purple/magenta color, it reveals preserved blackberries, candied raspberries, sappy purple
flowers, resinous herbs, olive, pepper, and sweet smoke. Full-bodied, it has ripe tannins,
fleshy fruit, and refreshing acidity through the finish. Drink over the coming 8-10 years.
Pouring a bright transparent ruby hue, the 2024 Pinot Noir Land's Edge Vineyards is savory
with aromas of juniper berries, umami, brambly mulberries, brushy herbs, and wildflowers.
Medium-bodied, it carries richness to the tannins alongside vertical acidity and a savory
finish. Drink 2026-2038.
Only about 50 to 55 cases are produced of the 2023 Grenache Morning Chorus, which is a
youthful ruby red color and is made entirely from destemmed fruit. Offering notes of spice,
floral perfume, clove, cherries, preserved strawberries, candied cinnamon, and pine, it’s
medium to full-bodied and expands beautifully on the palate, with ripe tannins, refreshing
acidity, and floating length. Charming now, it will be best enjoyed over the coming 8-10
years.
A bright yellow color, the 2024 Chardonnay Russian River Valley comes from a mix of estate
and purchased fruit across the Russian River Valley. Aromas of Anjou pear, white flowers,
lemon peel, and floral perfume emerge from the glass. Full-bodied yet light on its feet, it has
a silky weightless texture and floating length. It’s a delicious wine to drink now or over the
coming 5-7 years.
The 2014 Blanc de Noir Fog Dance Vineyard is a straw/copper color made entirely from Pinot
Noir and reveals black cherries, orange peel, and fresh bread. Full-bodied, the mousse is
more subtle while the fruit remains pure and immediately appealing with kirschy richness.
More immediate in style but capable of another decade or more of aging, it was disgorged
August 2025. Drink over the coming 15 years.
The 2014 Blanc de Blancs Far Coast Vineyard is a bright golden straw color and is entirely
Chardonnay, revealing baked apples, preserved citrus, pie spice, and toasted pastry. Medium
to full-bodied, it has driving acidity, a lively mousse, and excellent concentration. Disgorged
in August 2025 from the warm, dry 2014 vintage, it should mature beautifully even if the
acidity never softens dramatically. Drink 2026-2040.
Coming from the youngest Zinfandel vines they work with, though still nearly 100 years old,
the 2024 Zinfandel Jolene's Vineyard is layered and spicy with fresh lavender, blue and red
fruits, grenadine, cracked pepper, and perfumed spice. Medium to full-bodied, it has refined
tannins, refreshing acidity, and a long finish. It should drink beautifully now or over the
coming 8-10 years.