It's hard to believe it could get better than last year, but this 2017, is, thanks to one of the coolest growing seasons ever in McLaren Vale. The gnarly old bush vines were planted in 1946 at the highest point of Yangarra's white/grey dunes at 210 metres above sea level. Block 31 is 1.7 hectares of dry farmed 70-year-old bush vines sitting on low vigour, one meter deep, white sands (silica not marine), said to be 54 million years old. The nose and palate are pure fruit with an amazing texture and a red fruit fragrance that hums along with the acidity from front to back. I dare you not to drink the whole bottle in minutes. This edition comes in at 14 percent alcohol that seemingly disappears into its savoury mix of minerals, fruit, and oak you never notice. This is a new highwater mark for High Sands.

Very deep, dark, youthful purple/red colour with a rich, complex, profound bouquet that has a substantial oak input but not overdone—given the concentration of flavour. The palate flavour persists a very long time. It’s firm and youthful, needs more time, and promises much for the future. Dark berries galore: rich and ripe and very, very attractive.

Sourced from several blocks within Zena Crown Vineyard, now more than a dozen years old. It’s aged 16 months in 53 percent new French oak barrels. Winemaker Shane Moore likes a high percentage of new oak with medium and medium-plus toast levels because new barrels breathe, permitting more oxygen ingress than wine-soaked neutral wood. The wine only moves once: into the bottle. If there’s one wine that reflects Zena Crown Vineyard, Moore thinks it is the 2017 Vista. The nose is savoury Oregon with coffee, toast and light-brown spice mixing with dark strawberry fruit. The palate is silky texture that seems to power up the spicy notes throughout the wine before a lengthy, earthy, wild pinot finish. Impressive.

How good is the new Australia? Plenty good, maybe even scary good. Few GSM I have experienced have the mouth presence and cushioned weight that is the perfect bed for a wine packed full of fragrant old bush vine grenache (60 percent) planted in 1946. The remainder is 22 percent shiraz, and 18 percent mourvèdre. The result is an aromatic layered wine that is more red than black, with licorice and peppercorn flecks in the finish. It’s the balance and mouthfeel that attracts. You can serve this with any favourite wood-fired entrée, from pizza to steak.

The Old Vine Grenache was the first release in 2007. In 2019 the growing season was extremely dry, leading to super-low yields easily seen in the concentration of this wine. These bush vines were planted in 1946, and the vineyard is certified biodynamic, which appears to add pure bounce to the wine's vibrancy. It is planted on the Blewitt Springs estate's deep, sandy soils. It is fermented with 50% whole berry and kept on yeast lees in older French oak. Black plums reign, with a dusting of white pepper and a salty mineral finish. Wow.

Deep rich colour and a rich, concentrated bouquet led by smoky char-oak and the palate is likewise quite oak-driven, with medium to full-body and slightly gritty texture. Sweet raspberry fruit core. It could reward a little time in the cellar. It's a bit young at this juncture.

The Peake is an ode to Edward John Peake, who planted the first vines in Clarendon, where Hickinbotham is based, in 1850. The vineyard used for this wine was later planted by the Hickinbotham family in 1971, and is sourced from four blocks. It's a classic Australian blend of cabernet sauvignon (55%) and shiraz (45%), with all lots left on their skins for at least 18 days. The cabernet is aged for 15 months in Bordeaux-coopered barrels, while a combination of puncheons and barriques are used for the shiraz. Only the best barrels, selected by Napa-born winemaker Chris Carpenter, go into the final wine. It shows quite lifted, high toned dark fruit that's lavishly ripe and complemented by eucalyptus and sweet chocolatey oak. It's a big, dense, powerful wine that's just starting to unravel and reveal itself, with tightly wound, fine grained tannins that suggest this has years, if not decades, of life ahead of it. Every time you return to the glass, something new presents itself. A sure sign that this will be worth the wait. Worth a lengthy decant if you open it now.

The highly regarded WillaKenzie Estate, now under Jackson Family Wines' watch, takes its name from the sedimentary soil on which the vines are planted, and the long left aftermath of Oregon’s two major rivers Willamette and the McKenzie. The estate boasts 11 clones, reportedly the most in Oregon. 2016 is a mix of estate fruit from the Willakenzie Estate and Jory Hills Estate. The aromas and flavours are classic Willamette Valley, namely more Old World than New in the earthy, barnyard department with plenty of silky, savoury, black tea with a riff of black raspberry, rhubarb and cinnamon. Seamless in the finish with enough weight to impress without overloading its unique pinot noir character. Impressive.

A terrific value that doesn’t skimp on quality. Classic cherry, and berry notes with a hint of cedar and bit of oak make a great package.

Jackson Family Wines’ mountain portfolio a subline collection from a sublime placeEqually concentrated are the 2017 Mt. Brave Cabernet Sauvignon and the firm but succulent 2017 La Jota Merlot, a wine that finally gives credit to an often-maligned grape variety.

Jackson Family Wines’ mountain portfolio a subline collection from a sublime placeEqually concentrated are the 2017 Mt. Brave Cabernet Sauvignon and the firm but succulent 2017 La Jota Merlot, a wine that finally gives credit to an often-maligned grape variety.

Jackson Family Wines’ mountain portfolio a subline collection from a sublime placeThe 2017 Mt. Brave Cabernet Franc is a wine with incredible concentration and fresh blueberry and plum notes with hints of lilacs and herbs de Provence on the nose. It isn’t your daddy’s cabernet franc with this structure.

Jackson Family Wines’ mountain portfolio a subline collection from a sublime placeThe absolute killer wine of the bunch is the 2018 Mt. Brave Mt. Veeder Malbec, perhaps the best domestic malbec we’ve tasted yet. Rich, boysenberry flavors, soft tannins and a luxurious mouthfeel with exotic spices, intense aromas and an inky color. Delicious yet powerful.

Weighted to red fruit, this pinot has notes of cranberry, pomegranate and cherry, with sage in the mix. Firm tannins. Bright acid and nice length. Tasty.

Elegant, refined, silky.For 30 years, the Jackson family has sustainably farmed and tended this Santa Maria estate. Barbara Banke and Jess Jackson's daughters, Katie Jackson and Julia Jackson, grew up among the estate's vines. Drawn to the grit and beauty of winemaking, Katie and Julia continue the family business.Cambria is shaped by these three women: Barbara Banke's keen knowledge of the industry and business sense, Katie's passion for sustainability and the land, and Julia's creative backbone and dedication to empowering communities.The vineyard was named for Julia Jackson in 1986, and this 2017 Pinot Noir is comprised of clones: 4, 2A, 23, 115 and 667 grow on the estate's ancient soils of fossilized seashells, shale, limestone and sand.It was aged 15 months in French oak (25% new) before bottling.An elegant red, it has a nose of red cherry and cranberry, carrot tops and savoury spice, dried roses, saddle leather and tealeaf. Sweet, tangy and juicy red fruits dominate the palate. Refined and silky overall; flavours of leather and orange peel trail across the finish. Pair with wild mushroom tartletts, beet salads, butternut squash ravioli or salmon.

Finesse, fresh, creamy.For 30 years, the Jackson family has sustainably farmed and tended this Santa Maria estate. Barbara Banke and Jess Jackson's daughters, Katie Jackson and Julia Jackson, grew up among the estate's vines. Drawn to the grit and beauty of winemaking, Katie and Julia continue the family business.Cambria is shaped by these three women: Barbara Banke's keen knowledge of the industry and business sense, Katie's passion for sustainability and the land, and Julia's creative backbone and dedication to empowering communities.The vineyard was named for Katie Jackson in 1986, and this 2018 Chard is comprised of clones: 4 (46 years old) and Wente 76 and 96, which grow on the estate's ancient soils of fossilized seashells, shale, limestone and sand.It was 75% barrel fermented, 75% went through malolactic fermentation and was aged sur lie in French oak for 8 months (20% new) before bottling.Yellow plums, Meyer lemon, toasted spice, acacia, honey and vanilla aromas lead to a fresh but creamy palate. Toasted hazelnut and spice flavours are layered with yellow fruit and lemon to mimic the nose. Concentration, depth and finesse. Pair with roasted artichokes with capers and mint, creamy soups and pastas, corn chowder and smoked cheese.

This pale straw-colored Sauvignon Blanc opens with a very fragrant yellow grapefruit, green pepper and green olive bouquet with hints of guava and wet stone. On the palate, this wine is light plus bodied and slightly acidic. The flavor profile is a gentle mineral infused light grapefruit with notes lime, white peach and saline. We also detected some hints of green bell pepper and nectarine pit towards the very end. The finish is dry and its flavor drift away nicely. We would pair this delicate Sauvignon Blanc with a honey-fried walleye or seafood scampi.

NEW, tangy, juicy.New to BC, this rose gold pink has a sweet peachy nose alongside sour cherries, cranberry, strawberry, vanilla and orange blossoms. It's juicy and off-dry with citrus and berry flavours to echo the nose. The texture here is silky and it's an attractive and quaffable wine overall.

Appearance: Translucent ruby.Nose: Savory tomato leaf. Black pepper. raspberry.Palate:Medium-plus acid, Heavy mouthfeel. Ripe raspberries. Open fruit. This wine is forthcoming structurally.

Wines for the Easter MealRemember the film Sideways? That was shot around Santa Barbara in California; the home of soft and silky, coastal Pinot Noirs. Perfumed, elegant and easy to love.

Rosella’s vineyard is one of the most well-known farms in the Santa Lucia Highlands. Owners Gary and Rosella Franscioni planted the 50-acre vineyard, which rests along the slopes of the Santa Lucia Mountain Range, back in 1996, and produce fruit that is highly sought after.One of the wineries lucky enough to source fruit from this iconic site is Siduri, whose 2018 Siduri Santa Lucia Highlands Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir is simply delicious.It features pretty aromas of red plum and spring strawberry scents on the nose. The flavors of dark raspberry, bright cherry, wild strawberry and wet stone are well-balanced and nicely textured. The supple finish is simply delicious, with a touch of cinnamon for added charm.

Bordeaux 2018 Revisited: Saint-EmilionLassègue (St Emilion; 62% Merlot; 35% Cabernet Franc; 3% Cabernet Sauvignon; aged for 12 months in 60% new oak). A property that has been a steep upward trajectory for a while now. The 2019 may just be better still, but this is already deeply impressive. Plush, plump, rich and very ripe but fresh, bright and energetic too. Silky very dark chocolate notes and freshly ground Arabica coffee beans accompany the intense blue and purple berry and stone fruit, with a suggestion of marjoram and oregano and, with more aeration, cedar and pencil shavings.Glossy, cool and elegant on the attack but there is a considerable tannic presence hence – it is just that the tannins are so ultra-fine grained that it takes a little while to pick them up. As that already suggests, the structure is very impressive and this is very slow to unfurl and express itself across the palate. A vin de garde and of the highest quality with great balance and poise and with sufficient density of fruit to fully enrobe the considerable structure. The oak is a little more prominent at this early stage than you might imagine from the numbers. But give this even a year or two in bottle (and it deserves longer) and it will be seamlessly integrated.

Profound, outstanding, harmonious.Falling under the umbrella of Jackson Family Wines, this outstanding Chardonnay comes from Stonestreet's best estate vineyard sites (between 400-1800ft) on the North Coast of Sonoma in the AVA of Alexander Valley. Resting alongside the Mayacamas Mountains, the estate, which was established in the late 80s, specializes in Cabernet and Chardonnay.100% barrel fermented with native yeasts, this 2016 vintage continued through maloloactic ferment in barrel with monthly lees stirring and was aged 10 months in French oak, 63% new.Fleshy aromas of hazelnuts and browned butter, grilled lemons, honeysuckle, orange zest, yellow apples, vanilla and spice lead to a creamy, concentrated and stylish palate. Nutty and golden with a slick texture and harmonious character, it's a fresh but profound wine.

Julia’s Vineyard, named for a daughter of founders, Jess Jackson and Barbara Banke, is dedicated to Pinot Noir. It is a delicious wine with juicy black cherry, blackberry fruit laced with vanilla and notes of dried thyme, velvety smooth in the mouth. It is medium bodied and animated with vibrant acidity. It finishes with sleek, ripe tannins. It is the perfect partner with a roasted pork tenderloin, duck, quail or grilled salmon. The 2018 vintage was the second at Cambria for winemaker Jill Russell. She considered it a magnificent vintage with “canopies luscious and full; the vines were thriving and happy. We had zero weather events to push our picking decisions and we were able to let the grapes hang longer for more complexity while still retaining acidity.”

Santa Maria Valley was the first AVA, American Viticultural Area, in Santa Barbara County, California. The valley is considered unusual in California because it is a transverse valley, oriented west to east rather than north to south. That orientation allows the cold air from the Pacific Ocean to flow into the valley, creating the kind of cool temperatures that allow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes to shine. A perfect example is seen in the aromas of fresh pear, Granny Smith apple, citrus and vanilla, and in the mouth flavors of pear, white peach and pink grapefruit with a dusty mineral note, zesty acidity and a long finish. It will be a delicious partner for crab cakes, grilled shrimp or a light pasta salad. Cambria Estate was created by Jess Jackson and Barbara Banke in 1986 when they purchased a major portion of the Tepusquet Vineyard. Katherine for whom the vineyard is named is their daughter. Today she and her sister, Julia, are proprietors of the winery.