Classic Napa cabernet here from this historic property in Oakville, complete with dark, black fruit and notable oak spice still present, even 5 years in. Tannins are a bit drying, and wood is also dominant on the palate, while the overall density and depth are good, if not excellent. All in all it could use a little more stuffing on the mid-palate; some additional cellar time should help soften the dusty tannins, though I fear with fruit fading that full harmony might never be reached. Drink over the next 5-6 years to capture what remains.

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The aptly named Zena Crown “Conifer” Pinot Noir 2016, Eola-Amity Hills, originated in four blocks of 13-year-old vines that lie from 380 to 600 feet elevation. The wine aged 17 1/2 months in French oak, 54 percent new barrels, slightly different from the “Slope.” The color is medium transparent ruby with an ethereal magenta rim; the bouquet swarms upon you suddenly — loam and briers, red currants and plums, sandalwood and wild cumin, pine, smoke, forest floor; these heady elements segue seamlessly onto the palate, framed by dynamic acidity that cuts a swath and tannins the multiply in petal-like layers of dusty graphite; flavors take on a bit of cherry-berry ripeness, while perfectly integrated oak provides nuanced shape and supple texture. 14.1 percent alcohol. As complete, balletic yet grounded pinot noir as I have encountered this year.

Derived from three blocks of southeast-facing vines at 390 to 600 feet elevation, the Zena Crown “Slope” Pinot Noir 2016, Eola-Amity Hills, aged 17 1/2 months in French oak, 64 percent new barrels. The color is dark ruby that shades to a transparent mulberry-hued rim; notes of black and red currants and plums are buoyed by hints of forest floor, flint and slate; a few minutes in the glass unfurl touches of lavender, red cherries and cranberries, heather and sage; bright acidity plows a furrow on the palate; slightly dusty tannins emerge to lend structure to a pinot noir that beautifully balances all elements while allowing the wine’s essential elusive, ethereal yet damp earthy nature to prevail; one feels the quality of the vineyard as if it were underfoot.

I rate it McD 92, ready now, but a year in cellar would improve it. GM is a Jackson Family Wines project. Look for black cherry nose with cocoa and floral notes. Very smooth on the palate with more black cherry and hints of tanned leather; it rides a nicely balanced tannin/acidity frame though a long mineral finish.

A Bordeaux blend of all five varieties extracted from more than 20 Napa Valley Vineyards, this is classically shaped Napa fashioned by winemaker Ted Edwards. Plush and lush, luxe et volupté, swelling with all the red and purple berries one can imagine packed into one red wine. Handles its French and American oak with elegance and distinction.

In my glass: I baked a ham and looked at the wines waiting for my verdict. I spotted La Crema Pinot Noir Monterey 2017 and I knew it was the wine for the moment. Californian wines have been on my mind in recent days as terrible fires have been sweeping through the wine regions. I've donated to the Napa Valley Community Disaster Relief Fund (donatenow.networkfforfood.org). I'll leave that thought with you. Back to the delicious pinot from Monterey, which lies about 120 miles south from Napa. The wine has dusky notes of plums, cranberries and cherry. There's a hint of savoury and a tilt towards earthy, newly-rain dropped soil.

Here’s what is most special about Merlot. The care, thought, work and inspiration that these growers and winemakers put into this variety.Recommended.

Here’s what is most special about Merlot. The care, thought, work and inspiration that these growers and winemakers put into this variety.Recommended.

Here’s what is most special about Merlot. The care, thought, work and inspiration that these growers and winemakers put into this variety.Recommended.

Here’s what is most special about Merlot. The care, thought, work and inspiration that these growers and winemakers put into this variety.Recommended.

Wine the most important Thanksgiving choiceIf you want some international flair at the table, try the tangerine-and-herb profile, dry Copain Tous Ensemble 2018 Rose, which sounds like it should be from France, but is really from Mendocino County in California.

Dark rich plums, brown sugar, mint chocolate chip, and vanilla bean swirl together like a cotton candy machine at the state fair in this very approachable red blend from Bootleg. The creamy oak flares up on the nose like whipped cream atop a chocolate chip sundae with blueberry syrup and a cherry on top. Sounds dangerously good, right? The bold black and blue fruits absolutely dominate here, and that’s the front runner, with all sorts of tug-of-war tannins that grapple in your mouth. But it’s the hint of chalky dark chocolate squares that are irresistible on the palate. It’s concentrated but not dense, berry blasted but not overly fruity, cocoa coated but not milky. A final mint leaf liveliness sneaks across the finish line with precision. The big brooding deviance is real with this one and I suspect the masses will love it.

COMMENTARY: The 2016 Cambria Estate Vineyard & Winery Pommard Clone 4 Pinot Noir is vibrant and long. TASTING NOTES: This wine offers excellent aromas and flavors of tart strawberries and wild herbs. Enjoy it with grilled salmon.

COMMENTARY: The 2015 Cambria Estate Vineyard & Winery Pommard Clone 4 Pinot Noir shows substantial weight and drive on the palate. TASTING NOTES: This wine exhibits attractive aromas and flavors of savory spices, red and black fruits, and a note of licorice. Pair it with grilled lamb.

Blissfully ripe bramble fruit with milk chocolate, a touch of bacon and burnt meat. Svelte texture, balanced acidity, but perhaps slightly shorter than expected. Strange – the first act is all excitement, and the second act is rather pedestrian by comparison

The Merlot MomentumAs this is a global event, I added a 2016 Les Cadrans de Lassègue, Saint-Émilion, Grand Cru in the tasting lineup, an earthy wine yet redolent with cranberries notes and fresh acidity.

The Merlot MomentumAmong the other 2016 and 2017 current releases we sampled were the opulent La Jota Vineyard and the muscle-flexing Mt. Brave.

The Merlot MomentumAmong the other 2016 and 2017 current releases we sampled were the opulent La Jota Vineyard and the muscle-flexing Mt. Brave.

A well-defined saline edge accents the bright red fruit, blueberry and spice flavors. The zesty finish offers flinty and brambly details. Drink now through 2022.

Taut and savory, featuring red currant flavors, framed by crisp acidity. Dried strawberry and thyme hints show on the finish. Drink now.

A sinewy character defines the dried cherry and berry flavors, backed by firm acidity. Tea and cola notes linger on the finish. Drink now through 2023.

Savory, with good backbone to the dried red currant and berry flavors. The trim finish features notes of forest floor and dried tarragon. Drink now through 2022.

Raspberry and red plum flavors are fresh and juicy in this fruity style. Notes of underbrush show on the finish. Drink now.