12 Spectacular Wines for 2020Wow wines and the stories behind them.8. Vérité Le Désir 2016 Made from 50 micro-crus grown in Sonoma’s Bennett Valley, Alexander Valley, Knights Valley and Chalk Hill, which are all separately harvested, fermented and aged, Le Désir is an artwork of blending by vigneron Pierre Seillan. Frenchman Seillan perfected his micro-cru philosophy during his five decades making wines in California and France. Receiving a 99-point score from Lisa Perrotti-Brown of Robert Parker Wine Advocate, this Cabernet Franc dominant blend with Merlot and Malbec, made in collaboration with his daughter Hélène Seillan, has aromas of rose, thyme, black fruit, star anise and clove and strong minerality, fine tannins, lively acidity, and intensity in the finish.

50 Great Wines of 2019 Exceptional

50 Great Wines of 2019 Exceptional

50 Great Wines of 2019 Exceptional

I’m almost always impressed by La Crema’s Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Against California’s tendency to produce dense and sweet Pinots, La Crema’s comparative restraint, reflective of the Russian River’s relatively cool climate, is welcome. This one offers a medium body and supple texture, and it has attractive cherry and plum flavors heightened by suggestions of cinnamon and a subtle hint of chocolate.

WINE WITH…Potato Gratin with Ham and Cheese A tad sweet, with jammy cherry fruit, this Pinot feels seductively silky on the palate. That sensation, even more than any particular flavor, helped it pair well with the creamy potatoes and gooey cheese.

Four Expressions of Siduri Pinot Noir The fruit for this wine came from three different appellations in Yamhill-Carlton, Chehalem Mountains, and Eola-Amity. It comes from seven different clones from seven different vineyards. This accounts for the acidity up front and the juicy modest textures in the mid-palate.

Four Expressions of Siduri Pinot Noir The fruit in this wine explodes in the mouth. The tannic backbone creates an enduring sensation on the palate. Best with food, especially pork, veal, duck, rabbit and Asian dishes. Maybe Thai chicken curries'. This wine was fermenting when the winery became surrounded by fires, making it inaccessible for three days, and without power or gas for a week. Despite these hurdles Siduri produced a successful wine.

Four Expressions of Siduri Pinot Noir This example is very Russian River in character with gushing, dominant fruit and approachable tannins. Can be quaffed or served with pink meat.

Four Expressions of Siduri Pinot Noir Ready to drink. This seductive style makes this as good for quaffing in front of a movie as it would be paired with duck, noodle dishes such as Vietnamese vermicelli soups, or grilled pork chops. In fact, pork’s affinity for fruit makes this a liquid surrogate for e.g. apple sauce.

Ushering out the Decade with Stellar Holiday Samples I tasted notes of stone fruit, citrus, tropical fruits, apple and a bit of oak.

Aromas of cranberries and cherries, and there’s a lot of spicy herbal tones, rose petals, black tea, along with warm clay and earth. Medium/full-bodied with bright acidity, and moderate grip on the tannins, but no harsh edges — this has lovely balance. Crunchy cranberries, black cherries, wild raspberries, the fruit is laced with smoky earth, pepper, paprika and rose petals. Lovely, fresh, vibrant yet structured well; this should improve with three to four years of cellaring. From Blocks 15 and 13, aged in 43% new French oak.

Deep cherry and raspberry aromas, with a complex blend of rose petals, tobacco leaf, smoky, earthy tones, but also airy, lifted notes. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, medium/full-bodied, serious grip on tannins, but this is really well-balanced. Bright strawberries, raspberries and cherries, gorgeous, concentrated fruit, yet so lively. Notes of clove, cola, earth, wild herbs add complexity. I’d love to see what this does in five years. Made from their estate vineyard Block 9, aged 15 months in 45% new French oak.

Smells of wild raspberries, red cherries and cranberries, along with rose petals, menthol, mint, with spiced tea and earth. Medium/full-bodied with suave tannins and fresh acidity, this is smooth and juicy, vibrant but velvety. Cranberries, wild raspberries, strawberries, deep yet pretty fruit, laced with cola, rhubarb, earth, roasted chestnut, mint. Lots of complexity and elegance already, but I’d love to see this in two or three years. From Blocks 6, 7 and 9, aged in 27% new French oak.

Gorgeous nose of cherries and strawberries, deep yet vibrant, with roses, pepper, earth, coffee. Nice grip on the palate, but rounded edges, full but balanced. Deep black cherry fruit, cranberry relish, along with complex elements of roasted chestnut, clove, warm clay, coffee. Lovely depth and concentration, but vibrancy is there, too. This could use four to five years and should improve for longer. A blend of Blocks 6 and 13 (vinified separately), aged 15 months in 43% new French oak.

Seductively accessible pinot noir with succulent cherry, violet, mixed spice and subtle oak flavours flattered by a seamless, silken texture. A stylish wine that has clearly been made with a light touch. Very lengthy palate.

Serious, complex chardonnay with concentration and weight but with a rich, silken texture. Still quite youthful with the sort of structure that would respond well to at least a couple more years in bottle, although the wine can be appreciated now.

Restrained, youthful pinot noir, with peppery tannins keeping the volume down at this early stage. Quite a savoury, spicy wine suggesting the use of whole-bunches in fermentation. A moderately complex and supple wine that clearly has cellaring potential.

Creamy, accessible chardonnay with apple, citrus, hazelnut, bran biscuit and spicy oak flavours, with good supporting acidity and a backbone of subtle phenolics. A stylish chardonnay with cellaring potential.

Halliday Wine Companion Top 50 Wines of the Year - #47

Halliday Wine Companion Top 50 Wines of the Year - #23

Halliday Wine Companion Top 50 Wines of the Year - #7

5+ Wines to Help You Wind Your Way Through WinterA classic red beauty. Renowned vigneron Pierre Seillan and his son Nicolas harvest fruit (Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon) from their south by southwest-facing hillside vineyards to produce Lassègue, which has become known for its simple elegance, striking balance and rich complexity. The 2011 is an austere, full vintage, with notes of ripe blackberries and aromas of leather, baking spices and graphite. This polished wine features a velvety softness with silky tannins that move in crescendo towards a pressingly long finish. A classic expression of Saint-Émilion, Lassègue offers both brightness and sophistication to grace your table any time of year.

The vines were just over 70 years old at harvest. The thought crosses my mind every now and again that Yangarra may be the best producer in the country. Or is a contender for that mantle, anyway. $35 for this kind of quality is really quite something. It’s a superb grenache. It takes time in the glass to hit its straps but once its does, wow. So intricately tannic, so fresh faced and yet so sturdy, so dialled in. Woodsy spices and red berries, savouriness and sweetness, X factor. Seriously impressive.

This standout varietal wine is complex and lengthy in a wealth of juicy red and black fruit, with lasting accents of dried herb, sage, lavender and violet. Built to last, it should develop even more in bottle. Drink 2024–2026.