Good ruby-red. Tight, high-pitched, very subdued aromas of cassis, licorice, espresso and fennel. The most backward and youthfully imploded of this set of 2010 cabernets, hinting at intense black fruits and licorice but coming across as uncompromisingly dry today, with rather tough tannins. This will need another look in a few years. Incidentally, assistant winemaker Laura Diaz-Munoz describes the 2009 Lokoya cabernets as bigger wines. The 2010s are more elegant and will age well, she adds. They have higher acidity but similar pHs.

USA, Oregon: 2016 Vintage – Part Two Medium to deep ruby-purple in color, the 2016 Pinot Noir has an open, deep nose of black cherries, cassis, blueberry, blackberry and boysenberry jam with notes of spice, wood smoke, underbrush and earth. Medium-bodied, it packs in the ripe, dark blue and black fruits in the mouth with a soft frame of new oak spice and earthy nuances. It offers grainy tannins and juicy acidity, finishing long with sweet fruit and spice. This is a bigger, richer style, but it's very nicely done.

The 2011 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley stands out in this lineup for its sensual, layered personality. At the same time, there is plenty of delineation in the glass. Floral notes are woven throughout, adding an element of lift, precision and pure nuance. In 2011, the Russian River Pinot is all about persistence and definition. It is a beautiful wine, especially within its price range. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018.

USA, California, Northern California: Napa & Some Sonoma New Releases The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Jackson Estate Appellation series from Alexander Valley is blended of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot, aged 19 months in 47% new French oak. Deep garnet-purple colored, it gives up warm cassis, red currant jelly and cigar box scents with hints of mint tea, underbrush and pencil shavings plus a touch of cloves. Medium to full-bodied, it has a rock-solid structure of firm, ripe, grainy tannins and great freshness, finishing long and minerally.

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Trace Ridge is deep, plush and inviting. The Trace Ridge is denser and richer than the Hawkeye Mountain, but doesn't quite have the aromatic complexity of that wine. Layers of black fruit, iron, spices and licorice flow through to the round, generous finish. The 2009 is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Kellogg Vineyard in Knights Valley. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.

Reveals this region's classical tropical fruit character, primarily pineapple, along with hints of honeysuckle, vanilla beans, and a delicate touch of wood. Its rich, full-bodied palate, and Burgundian, leesy-like minerality and texture suggest it should drink well for 3-4 years.

The 2001 Pinot Noir Arrendel Vineyard possesses sweet raspberry liqueur-like aromas intermixed with notions of beef root, oak, and damp earth. Rich and medium-bodied with tart acidity as well as a firm, moderately tannic finish, there is a lot going on in this limited production 310-case offering. Cellar it for 12-18 months and enjoy it over the following 7-8 years.

The 2012 Zinfandel Dina's Vineyard, from a parcel of 100 year-old vines next to Highwire, presents a much darker and spice profile in its blue/blackish toned fruit, tobacco and spices, all supported by vibrant minerality. Dina's is more accurately described as a field blend than a true Zinfandel, which explains its notable complexity and nuance. Sweet tobacco, savory herbs and dried flowers add the final nuances of complexity.

The 2011 Zinfandel Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard, from vines that were planted over 100 years ago, is pure minerality. Reticent and intensely saline, the 2011 is intriguing, but also quite shut down today. Exotic citrus peel and floral notes emerge over time, but readers will have to be patient. Today, the Fanucchi-Wood Road is very much closed in on itself. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021.

USA, Oregon: 2016 Vintage – Part Two A blend of 53% Chardonnay and 47% Pinot Noir with two years' tirage, the NV Brut Rosé is pale to medium salmon-pink in color with an open nose of Meyer lemon, chamomile flowers, red apples, cream and toast. It's dry and gregarious in the mouth, with lively red berries flavors accented by apple and toast. It has great crushed rock minerality and crisp acidity with persistent mousse and a long berry finish. This was disgorged in April 2017.

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 27 months in French oak. This wine has huge tannins, big structure, and a muscular character. Plenty of white chocolate, blackcurrant, unsmoked cigar tobacco and mulberry are all present in this big, muscular, powerful wine that is built for the long-term. Don’t touch it for another 5-7 years, and drink it over the following 30 years.

A wine I haven’t seen before from Freemark Abbey is the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford. This wine is a selection from their Bosché, Sycamore and Red Barn vineyards in Rutherford. This is a relatively small cuvée of just under 2,000 cases, but an outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon. Black olive tapenade, blackberry, black cherry, blackcurrants and licorice are all present in this full-bodied wine that also shows a touch of earth, a full-bodied mouthfeel, sweet tannin and a long finish. Interestingly, this is a blend of 83.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.3% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc aged just over 24 months in oak. It should drink well for 15-20 years.

Bright ruby-red. Complex, brooding nose offers black plum, black raspberry, cedar, licorice, tobacco and slatey minerality; reminded me of a Medoc wine. Then sweet, dense and stylish, with nicely integrated acidity giving lift to the concentrated dark fruit and mineral flavors. Serious, seamless wine, finishing with building tannins and excellent length. The addition of some cabernet from To Kalon Vineyard helps to fill out the middle palate of this wine.

Good medium ruby. Medicinal black fruits and flowers on the n0ose. supple, dense and rather suave, with more complexity and spice character than the Helena Montana 2002. Very French in its combination of breadth and uncompromising dryness. The subtle finish shows sneaky, palate-coating length. Very suave wine. Helena Montana is like Latour, while Helena Dakota is more Lafite, says Jess Jackson, hopefully. I underrated this wine a year ago.

Cabernet Sauvignon with about 10% each merlot and cab franc) Good medium ruby. Complex nose melds cassis, plum, black cherry, minerals and cedar, plus hints of pepper and torrefaction. Sweet, bright and vibrant, with a slightly wild character and very firm acidity. A suggestion of wine-like coffee add nuance. I like this blend's tannin/acid backbone and length, but give this aromatic wine at least a couple years in bottle to stretch out.

100% cabernet sauvignon, from six-year-old vines on very thin mountainside soil) Deep red-ruby. Pungent aromas of black fruits, licorice, tar and menthol suggest a rocky minerality. Dense, thick and minerally, but with a very light touch. Strong minerality and bright acidity give shape to the medicinal black cherry flavor. Finishes long, juicy and aromatic, with insidious building tannins coating the front teeth.

(82% cabernet sauvignon, 9% merlot, 7% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot) Good full medium ruby. Claret-like aromas and flavors of nutty red fruits, licorice, herbs and graphite, with a light floral element. Round, lush and sweet, in a pliant, forward style. But nicely juicy owing to a firm edge of minerally acidity. The broad finish features substantial dusty tannins that reach the teeth. This offers considerable early appeal.

Good bright, pale yellow. Bright, tight aromas of lemon, pear and brown spices. A bit aggressive on entry, then bigger and broader but less precise in the mid-palate than the Broken Road bottling. This more masculine, saline, tactile chardonnay will need some time to reveal itself.

Good medium ruby. Distinct medicinal cast to the aromas of black cherry, violet, licorice and menthol. Juicier, tighter and more imploded than the Keyes Vineyard example, with an element of fruity peppercorn giving lift to the middle palate. The substantial dusty tannins arrive late, allowing this very primary young wine to unwind a bit.

Good full ruby. More brooding, medicinal aromas of cassis, black cherry and mint. Then surprisingly sweet and fat in the mouth, with rather chunky flavors of black cherry, dark chocolate, tobacco and cigar box. Here the tannins are a bit more rustic. I'd give this one three or four years in the bottle.

Good full ruby. Highly aromatic nose of blackberry, black cherry, leather and spices, with complicating mineral, herbal and earth notes. At once creamy and juicy on the palate, with black fruit, mint and earth flavors. Still a bit youthfully brutal on the end, finishing with building tannins.

(100% cabernet sauvignon) Good deep ruby. Cassis, violet and licorice aromas are complicated by oaky torrefaction and lifted by a peppery element; darker and more brooding than the basic bottling. A step up in depth and sweetness but this is still a baby today. This, too, has the stuffing to support its tannins. Finishes with very good energy and length.

Bright ruby. Aromas of blackberry, violet and licorice pastille, with a subtle meaty nuance. Juicy, minerally and penetrating but tightly coiled and on the youthful side, with medicinal red and dark fruit flavors showing a slightly bitter edge. Finishes on a note of licorice, with excellent clarity and serious grip.

Bright ruby. Seductive aromas of red and dark berry preserves, cola and smoky herbs. Sweet, sappy black raspberry and cherry-cola flavors are framed by velvety tannins and gain weight, spiciness and a licorice pastille quality with air. The spice and cola notes carry through a long, alluringly sweet, youthfully gripping finish. I'll bet this will be better with a few more years of aging.