The 2020 The Peake Cabernet Shiraz was picked right before the last of the COVID-19 lockdowns and shutdowns in South Australia, and winemaker Chris Carpenter was able to pick the last of the fruit before he returned to the United States on the last flight out of Australia. We may forget how intense this year was in the context of wine—it was the year the world was turned upside down, and it will forever be a vintage of profound impact, much in the same way as the war years throughout Europe in the early and middle 20th century. The blend contains 52% Cabernet Sauvignon this year—the lowest volume of Cabernet that this wine has ever experienced—and the balance Shiraz. Aromatically, the wine is fresh and leads with dark fruit and spice, chocolate and Christmas cake spices, raspberry seed and tapenade. It is superb. 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

This 100% varietal wine is a blend of fruit from Phinny Hill and Andrews vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak (56% new), the aromas pull you into the glass, with notes of dried and fresh herb, spice, black cherry, espresso, and dark chocolate. On the palate, the flavors are enveloping, going up and down and side to side, showing texture, intensity, and, above all, balance. The fine grained tannins this appellation is known for back it up. There’s pleasing freshness throughout. The finish sails. It’s shockingly good – an accomplishment of a wine – and one of the top offerings from this vintage. Best from 2030 to 2040. 14.8% alcohol. Natural cork. 315 cases produced.

The 2023 Chardonnay Upper Barn Vineyard is chock full of concentration and mid-palate density. Fermented and aged in 20% puncheon, with the rest in standard barrel (30% new across the board), the 2023 is long on texture and palate presence. The acidity is so well-integrated into the wine’s fabric, providing a salty undercurrent of forward motion that gently propels the 2023 across the palate. Notes of baked golden apple, honey, marzipan and orange peel meld together effortlessly. This is a large-scaled, confident, opulent wine, but its balance is absolutely impeccable.

A blend of 90% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 4% Malbec, the 2022 La Muse oozes finesse. Restrained and supremely balanced, it drips with layers of rose petal, tar, bright red cherry fruit and underbrush, with a sense of poise and finesse that is impossible to miss. Aged for 16 months in 95% new French oak, La Muse is already so well integrated and so even-keeled. A spritzy lift of citrus peel rides atop the wine's solid core, maintaining excellent freshness from start to finish. It’s the velvety, supple mouthfeel that impresses most.

A dark and elegantly layered set of cherry, berry, violet, potpourri, and herb aromas introduce the nose to this always excellent single-vineyard expression. The palate holds steady from start to finish, as waves of red fruit, charcoal, pepper dust, and rose hips align expertly.

A blend of Bosche and Sycamore vineyards made with the idea of a classic Rutherford Cabernet, the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford is based on 99% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Cabernet Franc and aged 19 months in 56% new French oak. This serious stuff is inky-hued and has terrific aromatics of cassis and black fruits intermixed with graphite, crushed stone, and a Graves-like scorched earth character. It's medium to full-bodied, with a concentrated, deep, layered mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and a great finish. It will benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and will see its 20th birthday in fine form. There are 422 cases produced. Drink 2027-2045.

All varietal, the 2023 Malbec shows classic Malbec character in its vivid blue fruits, liquid violet, and some wild strawberry-like nuances. It's medium to full-bodied on the palate, pure, focused, and clean, with fine tannins. I suspect it's the finest Malbec in the valley. Raised in 48% new oak, with 259 cases produced, drink bottles over the coming 15+ years. Drink 2025-2045.

Cassis, graphite, and crushed stone all define the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, a pure, balanced effort that's medium to full-bodied and shows the minerality and graphite character that defines the vintage. Based on 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, and the balance Merlot and Petit Verdot, aged in 70% new oak, it has ample tannins and a great finish. There are 4,101 cases produced. Drink 2026-2046.

The ‘Hapgood Vineyard’ is located near Melville winery. The wine is comprised of selections 459 and Mt. Eden. This 2023 Pinot Noir was given a small amount of whole cluster fermentation having amazing weight and freshness, with ultra-pure red fruits alongside orange peel and rose water notes. This is pure Santa Rita Hills. 

The 2022 La Muse is a blend of 90% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Malbec. Deep garnet-purple colored, it prances out with showy scents of juicy plums, black cherry preserves, and blackberry compote, opening out to touches of anise, lavender oil, and tilled soil with a waft of fallen leaves. The full-bodied palate delivers taut, muscular fruit and great tension with a grainy texture and long, savory finish. 

Gladysdale. Eastern-facing. 25% whole cluster. Fresh, bright and dynamic with lovely red cherry and redcurrant fruit. There’s a precision and brightness here with some mineral detail and grippy, well-integrated structure. Very fine, quite primary, but with amazing potential for development, although it’s good to go now. Such brightness but also elegance.

The first release from this vineyard at 400 m. Planted in 1987 in the boom of sparkling. Two sides divided by a central hill. It’s a very marginal site and they reckon one vintage in ten there won’t be a harvest, and in many years a lot of the fruit will have to be declassified, but once every five years they’ll make something remarkable. 1000 litres/6 barriques made. Very late vintage, and fully destemmed. MV6 and D clone Pinot. There’s a beautiful texture and harmony to this wine with raspberry, cherry and strawberry fruit. Fine and silky but with this lovely nervy fine-grained mineral notes and super-fine tannin. Ethereal and exotic with amazing texture.

This is across the road from Willow Lake. 220-290 m. This is a 13 hectare property with 1.8 ha of Chardonnay, all I10 clone. Grey clay soils. Complex, lively and mineral with an exoticpineapple hint to the keen citrus fruit. Lots of concentration and intensity here, with keen acidity. Lovely precision. This is tightwound and expressive with power and precision, finishing with a blast of lime and grapefruit.

Mostly P58 clone. Lovely fruit intensity here. This is a superbly balanced Chardonnay with a lovely dynamic range, with powerful citrus and some pear and white peach fruit, with lovely fruit, a fine grapefruit-like acidity, and some subtle toasty, spicy notes in the mix. There’s some richness, but it finishes alert and bright with amazing precision on the finish. Thrilling, with weight and complexity, and also some generosity.

The 2014 Brut Millésimé is composed of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir coming from 6 crus, all 1er Cru or Grand Cru sites. It spends at least 8 years on lees with a dosage of 5 g/L. Wow—the nose erupts with an intense perfume of crème caramel, candied ginger, beeswax, and lime leaves, leading to a core of fresh raspberries, wet slate, and Golden Delicious apples, plus a waft of brioche and struck flint. The palate is tight-knit, very dry, and super-crisp with intense orchard fruit and citrus flavors lifted by very fine bubbles, finishing with a spicy lift.

The Cuvée Hemera is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir coming from 6 crus, all 1er Cru or Grand Cru sites. It spends at least 10 years on lees with a dosage of 3.5 g/L. It prances out with showy notes of juicy peaches, poached pears, and apple butter, opening out to nuances of honey toast, allspice, and marzipan with a touch of crushed rocks. The palate has a wonderful honey-toast character with nutty accents and a very crisp backbone, finishing long and savory. Gorgeous

The 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon is a seriously vivid, striking wine that marries Howell Mountain structure with a great deal of finesse that is rarely seen in young wines from this appellation. Healthy dollops of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot lend quite a bit of character. I don't think I have ever tasted a wine with this much freshness and verve from La Jota.

Elegant yet opulent, showing refined, subtle aromas of Bosc pears, wet stones and green apples. This has layers of fruit flavors and energetic acidity with an incredibly long finish that’s rich yet refreshing. From a high-elevation site. Drink or hold.

I’ve always wondered why 100% Chardonnay sparklers are labeled Blanc de Blancs (plural) rather than Blanc de Blanc (singular) but that’s a question that will require more research. This could be considered ‘Extended Tirage’ as is the rosé named below, but again, that is an indeterminate term with no specific requirements. It’s had six years en tirage and it’s on the doorstep of showing the nutty richness of well-aged bubbly. Pear drop highlights, toasted hazelnuts and a touch of apple pie are in the mix, with a long, lingering and engaging finish.

Mineral-edged and polished, with aromas of lime leaves, lemon peel, oyster shells, talcum powder, sea spray, apple blossoms and crushed stones. The palate is high-tension and tightly wound, with underlying power and weight carrying notes of grapefruit and salted nuts. This is delicious, with plenty of generosity. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Pure and refined, with aromas of wild red fruits, summer flowers, citrus peel, raspberry
bushes and crushed stones. The palate is firmly framed, with a high level of polish and a
textural, mid-weighted mouthfeel, giving notes of dried strawberries. Great depth and
tension, with underlying power. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Floral and perfumed, with crushed red cherries, summer flowers, pomegranates, rose hips
and violets. The palate is reserved and delicate, with a mid-weighted mouthfeel and
crunchy tannins, giving lovely floral and red fruit notes with a savory undertone of fresh
herbs and fennel. Hints of citrus peel, blood oranges and graphite add complexity. A really
pretty and delicate wine. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Fine-boned and perfumed, with aromas of dried strawberries, macerated red cherries, iron,
graphite, crushed stones and fresh flowers. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained
tannins and bright acidity, tied together by a mineral edge. Chiseled and focused, with a
floral lift. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Yellow apples, hard melons and minerals zip along with limelike acidity, a hovering note of jasmine in the background. Fervent yet with an elegant, anchoring, tactile quality. Long. Drink or hold.

The 2023 Siduri Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir from the Santa Lucia Highlands is sourced
from Clone 666 and aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. It shows a radiant ruby-blue
center with a soft red edge. The nose layers black cherry, wild strawberry, and dusky
blackberry with accents of coastal breeze, herbal citrus, and a hint of baking spice. On the
palate, darker fruit tones mingle with warm spice and a touch of vanilla, creating both
richness and lift. More powerful and concentrated than its regional counterparts, it still
carries finesse through its balance of fruit, structure, and elegance. 236 cases made.
Highly recommended.