Anakota changes its oak regimen based on what the vintage directs, and the 2019 vintage, with an above-average growing season and heat spikes in July, August, and September, commanded a higher use of new French oak. The fruit leans toward the purple end of the spectrum: think plums and blackberry jam. But fruit almost takes a backseat to the leather, bay leaf, and iron qualities of the aromas and flavours. Full-bodied and structured, this is a wine with presence but still a freshness that makes it approachable in its youth. There are layers to this wine that keep bringing me back for another taste.

Although this wine is dominated by Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon’s sultrier qualities give this wine depth. Seillan’s long history with Cabernet Franc—first at his family’s estate, then in the Loire and Bordeaux—inspired him to create a wine from Sonoma fruit to complement the other two Verité wines. There’s wild game quality to the aromas and flavours, along with red fruits and black cherry. Dried herbs, rosemary, in particular, weave themselves throughout. On the palate, it reads as very elegant with wabi-sabi tannins; very polished but not perfectly so.

This is the third vintage at Siduri for Matt Revelette, who joined as winemaker in 2019. And it is the first vintage in which Siduri’s pinots have shown at this level. From a vineyard on the Santa Rosa Plain, this wine’s scents work back from beeswax and wildflower honey to the wildflowers themselves. The flavors have a long, graceful beauty, a bee buzz and a sting of nettles resolving into fresh summer blueberries. The black tannins have youthful intensity, the wine on track to become increasingly elegant in the years ahead. —J.G. 

Lifted aromas of melon skin, grapefruit pith, wet stone, nougat, struck flint and just-ripe nectarine. Really complex. Fine and focused flavours of white stone fruit, citrus, minerals and nutty oak. Long and layered, it unfolds on the palate and acidity is pin-point. Very smart gear

Complex and lifted aromas of grapefruit pith, green melon, feijoa, white flowers and a nutty, nougat edge. Complex, mouth-filling and layered flavours of just-ripe stone fruit, citrus and mealy, nutty oak. There’s fabulous weight and texture and the acidity has lovely snap and crack. Sophisticated, compelling, world-class chardonnay

Fresh and vibrant aromas of
strawberry sorbet and raspberry granita leap from the glass on the nose of this bottling, made more interesting thanks to dark herb scents. The palate lands with a zesty energy, as refreshing, expertly captured red fruit flavors join peppery spices and underlying herbs on the never-ending palate.

The 2020 Chardonnay Upper Barn Vineyard has a lush perfume of ripe pineapple, apricot, and toasted spices. Full-bodied and well-balanced, it’s long and graceful on the palate within its large frame. Offering notes of marzipan, ripe melon, and lemon pastry, as well as a floral finish, it takes on a seamless nature in structure and balance and should have significant longevity over the next 8-10 years.

I really love the perfume of the 2021 Zinfandel Highwire Vineyard, which has the scent of walking into the forest after a fresh rainfall. Pouring a saturated ruby-purple, notes of blackberry, candied raspberry, and forest herbs are followed by a medium to full-bodied red with a bit more linear and fresh spine of acidity. It packs in compelling structure, with fine tannins and a brightness to the fruit that is long on the palate, revealing notes of fresh peach, dusty soils, and sweet herbs. This may be my favorite of these Zinfandel offerings from Hartford

Similar in appearance to the Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard, the 2021 Zinfandel Dina's
Vineyard boasts a woodsy tone, with aromas of wild medicinal herbs, pine sap, and black raspberry. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, this is another favorite for me in this range of Zin. Offering fresh mineral earth as well as notes of crunchy berries and ripe black cherries, it’s dry and inviting, with fresh acidity, good tannin structure, and a more vertical mouthfeel. Allow it another year and drink 2025-2037.

The 2021 Pinot Noir Arrendell Vineyard is expressive of sassafras, brambly wild berries, and toasted cedar. Full-bodied, with a lot of balance but no harsh edges, it has fresh acidity, an ultra-fine tannin structure, and a long, graceful finish, with candied roses, black raspberry liqueur, and dusty earth. A very attractive wine, it’s drinking well now and will certainly be worth enjoying over the next 15 years.

A deep but transparent red, the 2021 Pinot Noir Jennifer's is a bit more reserved initially but opens to reveal raspberry liqueur, pine sap, and a bit of classic cola spice. Full-bodied, it offers juicy fruit throughout, with fine tannins and fresh acidity that lifts it cleanly off the palate, with fresh berries as well as fresh forest herbs. It’s attractive and charming now, with a lovely floral finish. Drink 2024-2036.

Taking things to the next level, the 2018 Syrah Outer Limits is highly aromatic and expansive in its aromas of pine sap, black cherry preserve, black pepper, and wild lavender. Full-bodied, it has good lift and fresh acidity, with more energy, and notes of olive brine, and charcuterie. This red offers classic appeal, with a good balance of fruity and savory elements. Drink 2023-2040.

Deep ruby, the 2021 Pinot Noir Fog Dance Vineyard is savory and woodsy, slowly evolving in the glass as it opens to notes of pine sap, black cherry preserve, eucalyptus, and dusty earth. Full-bodied, it boasts expansive fruit that fills the palate with fine tannins, a velvety texture, and a long finish, noted with a core of concentrated raspberry, turned soil, and spices on the finish. It’s long on the palate, with a good freshness underneath to
tie this otherwise very opulent wine together. Drink 2025-2040.

Pouring a golden yellow, the 2021 Chardonnay Radian Vineyard brings forward pure, fresh aromatics of candied lime citrus, well-managed oak spice, and wet stone. Mediumbodied, with a cleansing mineral texture and fresh lift, it’s fresh with green melon, bright acidity, a light saline note, and a hint of crushed earth. It’s a very pretty style of white to hold or drink over the next 10 years.

A vibrant and pure Chardonnay with great energy, the medium gold 2021 Chardonnay Three Jacks Vineyard is lifted with flint and dusty earth, as well as lime zest, white pepper, and green apple. Medium-bodied, it has ripe, sweet fruit throughout, and a balanced, fresh feel. Offering remarkable evenness in its balance,
with floral notes of white flowers and lemon curd continuing through to its long finish, this is my favorite of the whites in the lineup. Drink 2024-2032

An opaque inky purple, the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Smothers-Remick Ridge is
luxurious with vanilla oak spice, blackberry preserve, and leather. Full-bodied and lush in its texture, with velvety tannins and notes of black plum, mocha, and tea leaf on the
palate, it’s ripe and fleshy, with good structure. This needs time to develop into a more savory realm.

“This is an absolute bloody cracker. It tastes of cranberry and red cherry with pomegranate and twiggy, peppery spice. It’s lively, perfumed, juicy, complex and complete. There’s crunch here, there’s perfume, there’s difference and yet there’s pure, ripe, juicy, urgent fruit. Great face, great body.”

“When we taste the Giant Steps chardonnays we usually start at the warmer of the single vineyard sites and work our way up, or to cooler sites. Two we have here. Tarraford is a leased vineyard though it’s a key member of the Giant Steps SV range.
This is a tight release, though highly textural, but what really shows through here is the fruit intensity of the year. There’s a concentration to this wine, a sense of bounty. It tastes of brine, apples, citrus and cedar, with attractive bacon and salt-like highlights, plus quartz, plus some greenery. I wrote the word ‘incredible’, which says it all.”

A swathe of fine terracotta tannins suck up the fruit, tailoring a most evenly delivered palate of black cherry and rosehip fruit. Whole bunch (20%) brings ripe wood and nutty seed tones, lavender and violet lift. The oak delivers a cinnamon and anise kiss. An Upper Yarra Pinot of impressive gravitas, thanks to Ray Guerin’s east-facing, multi-clonal planting (MV6, Pommard, 114 and 115) at 300m elevation. Harvested 10, 12 and 15 March.

Complex, textural, with developing honey, roast hazelnut and lees nuances to the languorous, slippery, golden delicious apple and ripe citrus fruit. A touch of green apple peel too. Lithe, with balanced acidity to the lingering finish. Planted in 1997 to a single Chardonnay clone (I10V1), the east-facing Applejack vineyard in the Upper Yarra Valley, rises from 180m to 280m on grey clay loam. Harvested 3 and 6 March.

Impressively youthful, dark and deep in the glass. Evocative aromas of mulberry, dark cherry, dried herbs, anise, cola, mocha and sweet spice. Really exotic and lifted. Flavours are full, dense, dark and powerful, lashings of dark fruits, spice and nutty oak. There’s firm, shapely tannins and punchy acidity ensuring the plush fruit is kept under control. Long, textured and delicious. Drink: 2023–2038

Fine, crystalline and juicy. Energetic, with pear, pineapple and lemon fruit, showing such focus, and amazing energy and precision. There’s a core of pure lemony fruit and a touch of pithiness, with some nice structure. Great focus and purity here: really alive.

Seventy six year old vines, fermented in 675L ceramic eggs and on skins for 133 days. No oak, matured for 13 months. There’s no question that Grenache is having a moment, and rightly so. This oh so svelte expression of the variety is everything one looks for in the glass. Textural, perfumed and constantly shifting in the mouth. There are plenty of pert red fruits, as one would expect; cranberry, just ripe raspberry and sour cherry. Crushed pink rose petals and rosehip oil, a whiff of green peppercorns and a fine, crunchy line of granite and quartz. Tannins as fine as crushed, powdery glass which in another lifetime might have formed a looking glass of clarity and definition, much like the finished product here. This wine takes one last turn with a savoury finish, not a chewy and dense meatiness, more so the lightness and melt in your mouth finesse of thinly sliced coppa. Impeccable length, long taught acid and rippled with tension. A wine to sip at the bar with limbs outstretched and grace aplomb.

I can’t help but do a little happy dance for the savvy team behind Yangarra when I crack the seal on the Ovitelli Blanc. Grenache Blanc in capable hands – YAY. This is a blend of 73% Grenache Blanc and 27% Roussanne and it makes sense in the old country of McLaren Vale. Like anything Yangarra does, there is thought, consideration, trials and a purpose behind each decision made both in the vineyard and winery. It’s no surprise then that the fruit is handled with a portion macerated on skins for over 110 days, some batches whole bunch pressed and other elements with the finest pressure imaginable. All parts into ceramic eggs for fermentation. Sounds like a lot of work and you bet it is. However, what you are left with is a bouquet of alluring white gardenia, Cape jasmine and aloe vera gel. Star fruit, winter melon and mangosteen. All of this before a rattle of what you thought you knew of textural white wines. A lustrous and creamy palate that winds down your tongue. With hints of bee pollen, whey and almond meal, this has the force of a fighter jet with the soft wing flutter of a night owl. It’s dynamic and pristine. I’m completely enamoured. Drink with..hmmm .. geez something bloody brilliant made by someone very talented. Or perhaps the sweetest scallop nigiri placed at room temperature in your hand by the Sushi master.

A meld of 3 blocks, strewn with lighter silts, screes of ironstone and clay loams. Hand picked, cold soaked; pumped over in open-top fermenters. A minimum of 21 days on skins before élévage in French wood (50% new) for just over a year. As always, an immensely classy and richly flavoured wine, shaped as much by a curl of juicy, precise and beautifully alloyed tannins, as it is by the sheath of blueberry, currant, sage, graphite and dried herbs. The frame of cedar oak, all class. The finish is tenacious, ferrous and densely packed with a nascent energy auguring for much more to come. Bury this.