Deep garnet-purple in color, the single-varietal 2021 Cabernet Franc needs a little coaxing to bring out fragrant scents of redcurrant jelly, wild blueberries, and Morello cherries leading to hints of mint tea, rosebud tea, and tar with a touch of lavender. The full-bodied palate is tightly wound with red, black, and blue fruit layers supported by fine-grained tannins and beautifully knit freshness, finishing long and fragrant.

The 2021 Cabernet Bosche Rutherford, with 6% Merlot in the blend, is deep garnet-purple in color. It waltzes out with gregarious notes of juicy ripe blackcurrants, wild blueberries, and kirsch plus suggestions of rose oil, fragrant soil, and cardamom with a touch of graphite. The full-bodied palate is completely coated with black fruit preserves and minerally layers, supported by a rock-solid structure of grainy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long and perfumed. 1,500 cases were made.

The 2021 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon, with 10% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc in the blend, is deep garnet-purple in color. It prances out of the glass with showy notes of cedar chest, Indian spices, and dried flowers leading to a core of creme de cassis and plum pudding followed by a waft of fallen leaves. The full-bodied palate is chock full of black fruit preserves and exotic spice accents framed by firm, grainy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long and earthy. Only 900 cases were made.

The 2020 Upper Barn Chardonnay prances out with showy notes of baked pineapple, apple pie, and toasted almonds leading to hints of candied ginger, chamomile tea, and honey-drizzled apricots. The medium-bodied palate is lively, with a decadent touch of oiliness to the texture framing the opulent stone fruit and spicy layers, finishing on a lingering ginger-nut note. Part of the vineyard is planted to 1982 Old Wente clone vines on AXR rootstock.

The 2021 Upper Barn Chardonnay erupts from the glass with notes of lemon curd, pineapple upside-down cake, allspice, and powdered ginger leading to wafts of jasmine, lime zest, and chalk dust. The medium to full-bodied palate is tightly knit ,with beautiful freshness and purity supported by a silky texture, finishing long and mineral-laced. Part of the vineyard is planted to 1982 Old Wente clone vines on AXR rootstock. 704 cases were made.

The single-varietal 2019 Rockfall Cabernet Sauvignon is deep garnet-purple in color. Notes of wild blueberries, juicy black plums, and cassis pop from the glass, followed by touches of violets, iron ore, and tapenade. The medium to full-bodied palate is taut and muscular, with a firm, grainy backbone and great tension, finishing on a lingering ferrous note.

The 2022 Velvet Sisters Pinot Noir is medium ruby-purple in color. Wow! The nose is pure violets and rose oil, leading to a core of wild blueberries, Morello cherries, and crushed rocks with a touch of wild thyme. The full-bodied palate has a laser-fine, crisp backbone with grainy tannins and intense black and blue fruit layers, finishing on a lingering chalky note. Native strains were used for alcoholic and malolactic fermentation and the wine is unfined and unfiltered. It is sourced from a block within an estate vineyard located at the northern end of Anderson Valley, planted to Dijon clones 115, 667, 777, and Pommard.

The 2022 Four Hearts Vineyard Chardonnay erupts from the glass with flamboyant scents of apple pie, ginger cake, and spiced pears followed by nuances of chamomile, Marcona almonds, and clover honey. The medium to full-bodied palate reveals a satiny texture with just enough freshness and a long, mineral-laced finish. This wine was barrel fermented and aged in French oak. Native strains were used for alcoholic and malolactic fermentation and the wine is unfined and unfiltered. It is sourced mainly from the Laguna Ridge neighborhood of the Russian River Valley, from vineyards planted in late 1970s and early 1980s to Old Wente, Sees, and Rued selections.

The 2022 Fog Dance Vineyard Pinot Noir is medium ruby-purple in color. Notes of black raspberries, blood orange, and redcurrant jelly pop from the glass, giving way to nuances of graphite, underbrush, and garrigue. The medium to full-bodied palate is tightly wound and intense, with fantastic tension and super fine-grained tannins, finishing long and savory. Native strains were used for alcoholic and malolactic fermentation and the wine is unfined and unfiltered. Fog Dance Vineyard is from a block located on a hillside in Green Valley south of the town of Forestville in an area noted for its nightly fog intrusion.

The 2022 Fog Dance Vineyard Chardonnay shoots from the glass with energetic notes of grapefruit oil and lemon curd leading to hints of lime cordial, jasmine tea, and white pepper. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers compelling tension with a chalky texture and loads of citrusy sparks on the long finish. This wine was barrel fermented and aged in French oak. Native strains were used for alcoholic and malolactic fermentation and the wine is unfined and unfiltered. Fog Dance Vineyard is from blocks planted to Dijon 96 and ENTAV 809, located on a hillside in Green Valley south of the town of Forestville in an area noted for its nightly fog intrusion.

The 2022 Far Coast Vineyard Chardonnay rockets out with vibrant notes of green mango, guava, and fresh pineapple opening out to hints of crushed rocks, sea spray, and baking bread. The medium to full-bodied palate is wonderfully elegant and soft-spoken, with seamless freshness leading to a long and savory finish. This wine was barrel fermented and aged in French oak. Native strains were used for alcoholic and malolactic fermentation and the wine is unfined and unfiltered. The estate Far Coast Vineyard is from blocks located on a mountain ridge north of Fort Ross on the Sonoma Coast, planted to Clone 15, Dijon 95, and Entav 809 at an elevation of 700 feet.

Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2022 Hartford Zinfandel soars with notes of rose oil, star anise, kirsch, and raspberry pie leading to a core of stewed red plums and incense. The medium to full-bodied palate has a refreshing backbone and lightly chewy texture, finishing with lovely purity and a red berry lift. Don and Jennifer Hartford tend this head-trained vineyard in the backyard of their home. Planted over 100 years ago, the Hartford Vineyard’s vines are the lowest yielding of all of their Old Vine Zinfandel vineyards.

The 2022 Fanucchi Wood Road Zinfandel Old Vine is medium to deep garnet-purple in color. Notes of juicy blackberries and baked plums on the nose open out to suggestions of unsmoked cigars, dried rose, tilled soil, and wild fungi. The full-bodied palate is dense and muscular, with a rock solid structure of grainy tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing long and earthy. The vines were planted over 100 years ago and have been trained up to chest level to increase air circulation and sun exposure for the berries.

This bottling from an iconic vineyard begins with rich aromas of black cherry, creamy mace spice and a hint of loamy soil. The palate is very tense, giving a tannic, acidwashed balance to the ripe cherry, raspberry and lemon peel flavors, with a kick of white pepper on the finish.

This wine has a fuller body and more obvious extract than its elegant King's Wood sibling. Firmer tannins, too. There are heady aromas of violets, licorice, charcuterie and boysenberries. There is a hint of reduction and barrel-ferment smokiness marking the mid-palate, but this is a classy, polished shiraz with immense flavors and personality. It is clearly built for the mid-term cellar. In '22 this shiraz may well be the superior variety from this site. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.

This big but elegant wine is blended from selected lots of grapes from top-quality spots across the 92 acres of grapes on the estate. Full-bodied, rich in red and black fruit, subtly spiced with new oak and presenting a suede-like texture that’s soft on the surface but firm underneath. To be released in April 2025. Best from 2027.

Often the best grenache at this stellar site and certainly the most robust, without any sense of excess of heaviness. Sandalwood, campfire and almost pithy red cherry and amaro liqueur notes. Some tamarind and sarsaparilla. It’s not dissimilar to top nebbiolo, both flavor-wise and structurally. The finish is juicy but tightly wound, auguring for a long future in the cellar. Drinkable now, but best from 2029.

A brilliant texture laced with vibrant acidity sets this wine apart. Laser-focused lemon, crisp apple and kiwi flavors meld with light butter, cream and almond notes. Fermented and aged in 31% new French barrels, the wine has complexity and balance that belie its full body.

Bursting with ripe peach, pear and pineapple with an expressive vanilla bean oak intensity and a lively tension from the lemon acidity. Long, herbaceous and fulfilling.

Bright, crystalline ruby red in the glass. Lift of raspberry and rose petal, hint of dry soil on the nose. Palate Is medium weighted with slippery red berry fruits and a subtle dried herbal undertone. Well-framed tannins ensure it carries and drives with focus and tension and the finish is remarkable in its length and detail. A stunning grenache that sets a very high bar for the region.

This puts on a remarkably youthful display, offering rooibos, damson plum and cherry notes laced with super fine hints of savory and sea breeze that form a tensile matrix and carry everything through the sleek and seriously long finish. This also didn’t budge in the glass, staying pure and beautifully pitched over the course of the tasting. This delivers the DNA of the Machado vineyard in pristine detail. Drink now through 2032.

This 2021 ‘Gary’s Vineyard’ is sourced from Pisoni clonal selection Pinot Noir vines. The Pinot Noir comes from a rocky site that is roughly one mile from the Rosella’s Vineyard. The dark fruit profile is very evident in this wine. Wild blackberry and black cherry tones mark the nose alongside wet gravel accents. The palate is smooth and soft with a voluptuous texture. Drink 2024-2040

Located in the Anapolis area, this vineyard is an 180 acre site that has older vines that ripen slowly. Stored in 40% new French oak the 2021 Pinot Noir offers crushed seashells on the nose alongside dense dark fruits and hints of black truffle shavings. This is a big, burly wine that has beautiful body and underlying verve. Finishing long with refined tannins, this dense and chewy Pinot Noir is drinking marvelously right now. Drink 2024-2040.

A gorgeous amalgam of fruits and herbs, savoury edginess and deep umami. Winemaker Greg Brewer sources this wine from the Perilune Vineyard – a young vine, picturesque hillside vineyard on the North side of Highway 246 in the Santa Rita Hills. Whole cluster fermentation, where Brewer focuses on ripening the stems and the fruit. Heady aromatics of dried wild herbs, lavender and bright red berries mingling with notes of smoky soy and black olives in brine. The palate is fresh and beautifully balances its savoury nature with cheerful berries. Pomegranate pulp comes to the fore but is followed by layers of depth, smoky soy, charred earth, briny black olives and graphite. The finish is lifted with notes of wintergreen and sage.

An aromatic bottling of Ironheart, this is plump and plummy, with notes of blueberry, earthy, savory spice, violets and chocolate. There’s a warmth and ease to this wine that doesn’t come from alcohol, overt ripeness or oak. It’s succulent and silky, and sits firmly in the medium-bodied spectrum despite the sturdy structure of the tannins. Drink now or cellar throughout the next decade. Sovereign Wine Imports. Cellar Selection. —C.P.