I am fully on-board with this release of Applejack Chardonnay. It’s a beauty. Pure, long, showing a little more flint than usual, all line and length in general but with a bit of extra punch and flare on top. This is tight and taut and tense and all those things, but wow does it extend and wow does it thrill. We’re in chardonnay for chardonnay lovers territory. White peach, cedar, lactose, a touch of lemonade; the sum is far more than the parts. Fantastic wine. Compelling. Intense. On a mission.

The Applejack Vineyard at Gladysdale in the Yarra Valley is on an east facing slope. There’s a 100 metre drop from the top of the vineyard to the bottom. There’s also significant clonal diversity in this vineyard. It was planted in 1997 in caramel-clay soils.

There’s no escaping the seriousness of this wine. It’s cool, spicy and complex, but it has heft and power, and is structurally firm (to say the least). This wine is both keen with mineral and flooded with floral character, the latter embedded in the fruit rather than flying off as aromatics. Pomegranate, dark cherries, blood and bone, alpine herbs, red roses, smoked cream, pepper and peppercorn, the latter bound to those red rose notes. It’s serious in style and seriously good.

This release is remarkably pure and intense. It also has a distinct, almost defining, freshness; it tastes as though it’s been picked off the side of a mountain. Boysenberry, red cherry, violet and mint characters edge into fresh plum, peppercorn and woodsmoke – the latter notes riding inside the wine’s fruit. There’s a firmness to the finish but even so, freshness is maintained. There’s a genuine crushed purple flowers steeped in cherry-plum juice aspect to this wine; it has a prettiness but it’s not light. It’s an easy wine to label as seriously good.

I am fully on-board with this release of Applejack Chardonnay. It’s a beauty. Pure, long, showing a little more flint than usual, all line and length in general but with a bit of extra punch and flare on top. This is tight and taut and tense and all those things, but wow does it extend and wow does it thrill. We’re in chardonnay for chardonnay lovers territory. White peach, cedar, lactose, a touch of lemonade; the sum is far more than the parts. Fantastic wine. Compelling. Intense. On a mission.

The Applejack Vineyard at Gladysdale in the Yarra Valley is on an east facing slope. There’s a 100 metre drop from the top of the vineyard to the bottom. There’s also significant clonal diversity in this vineyard. It was planted in 1997 in caramel-clay soils.

Stunning pinot noir. Exceptionally fragrant, dramatically well structured and then just so impressively persistent. It tastes of forest berries and pure red cherry, crushed dry and fresh flowers, an assortment of teas and twiggy herb notes, though it’s that push of fruit that really beguiles. This is top tier gear, no doubting it. The frame of tannin, in a balanced and appropriate way, is next level; it just has that extra push.

This, the flagship shiraz, off sand and ironstone; 20% whole bunches; six months in French oak, 35% new, then 10 months in a one-year-old foudre. That new oak leaves its stamp, as does some reduction, both concealing fruit at this early stage. Although of modest alcohol, this has a slightly lavish feel, the char, spice and vanillin from quality oak giving it a gloss. It’s all deftly handled though, matched by the thrumming power of the fruit, with notes of blackberry pastille, soft licorice, freshly ground fruity coffee and rusted iron. It’s testament to the farming here that so much flavour is achieved at this ripeness and weight, and this promises to age well; just give it a year or two.

A blend of equal portions of all the Giant Steps single-vineyard wines. With its aromas of white nectarine, lemon verbena, a little cashew and attractive marine scents, this is immediately appealing. On the palate it's concentrated with grapefruit pith and lemony acidity on the long finish. A class act to drink now and over the next four to six years.

Planted on a cool, south-facing slope on what is one of Giant Step's warmest sites. 30% mlf, 30% new oak. There's a gentle creaminess on the nose combined with white peach and grilled hazelnuts. Less opulent than the '24 without forgoing this wine's usual texture and mouthfeel. Delicious straight out of the gate but structured enough to cellar for at least the next four to six years.

Lavish aromas of black cherry cola and lavender show just a tinge of dank herb on the nose of this always stellar bottling. The pallet is rounded and juicy, offering blackberry pie and even lilac flavors, as well as that balancing kick of minty herb.

Fresh and engaging on the nose, this single-vineyard expression that's helped define this label for decades begins with bright yet brooding aromas of black cherry, blackberry and mint on the nose. The palate is zippy while lush, presenting cherry and mulberry flavors that are enhanced by sage and pine needle components that add an ethereal darkness on the chalky finish.

Exuberant aromas of cherry and strawberry play against slight hints of forest floor and balsam on the nose of this bottling. The palate snaps with cherry and strawberry candy flavors, but it's the underlying sense of menthol that makes everything truly pop.

The 2024 Pinot Noir Dakél Portecillo from Quirihue, Itata, was aged for 11 months in 25% new French oak. It is two-thirds clone 667 and one-third 777. The nose shows high fruit intensity, with sour cherry, cherry and elderberry alongside a delicate hint of strawberry and rosehip. A subtle oak note sits in the background. Dry and smooth, the palate is enveloping yet agile, leaning toward a Californian style and finishing with attractive fruit expression.

This wine is named appropriately because the storm is a-brewing. Lively aromatics of sagebrush, alpine florals, wild raspberry, youthful plum, molasses, and sedimentary rock waft on the nose. Flavors on the palate convey concentrated damson plum, red currant, allspice, maple, orange zest, and supple, spiced tannins on the finish. Drink now or cellar until 2038.

The 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon is fabulous. A burst of dark red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, chalk, mint, iron and white pepper makes a strong first impression. The 2023 offers tremendous breadth and power while also screaming with Mount Veeder character. This is a fantastic value in the world of top-rate Napa Valley Cabernet.

Floral, textural and very expressive, showing aromas of orchard fruit, citrus blossoms, talcum powder and melon. The midweight palate has a fine line of acidity and phenolic grip that adds another dimension—an excellent balance of freshness, tension and power. Lots of aging potential yet with early-drinking appeal. A blend of 31% grenache gris, 28% grenache blanc (skin contact), 22% clairette and 19% roussanne (skin contact). Aged 100% in ceramic eggs. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

This sits on the edge of reduction, showing briny, savory, meat-driven notes carried by deep dark fruit, spices, earth, tapenade and ink. The full-bodied palate has firmly framed yet refined tannins and a bright line of acidity that drives a high-tension, saline-tinged finish with an herbal touch. Built to unravel beautifully with bottle age, yet generous and giving in its youth. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Yangarra's longtime winemaker, Pete Fraser, who tragically died in late 2025, was renowned for Grenache, but he had an expert grasp of Shiraz, too. This vintage takes the senses on a dive down a hedgerow-lined path of blue and purple berries, black olives, dried herbs and florals, tinged in a rock dust note, like the path itself. That core of generous dark fruit continues on the silky, supple, downright charming palate, where fine, taut, quietly powerful tannins ground a still-young wine that will age beautifully for many years to come.

Bright, plump raspberry and strawberry fruit is sprinkled with white pepper, dried herbs, rock dust. It's silky to the taste, filling the mouth with berry and plum fruit, and florals, too, with mouth-watering acidity and a frame of fine, chalk dust, sweet-and-savory tannins. An elegant, cocktail dress of a wine for sipping now or anytime over the next 15 years. 

Spiced citrus and pineapple rind are underscored by toasted cashew and nougat, with a saline note, too, like seashells. There's a lovely laser-like focus to the palate, the acidity an arrow pointing straight down the middle of the tongue, giving the wine shape and dimension. This could age—it's still young—but it's a complete wine now, with Burgundian flare and Victorian sunshine. — Christina Pickard

Blueberry, wild blackberry and huckleberry flavors are generous and fresh, with forest floor accents including crushed pine needle and rosemary. Darjeeling, black pepper and five-spice powder notes leave an aromatic thread. With a muscular frame but plush tannins, this is velvety in feel, showing a long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2038.—M.W.

Blood orange, raspberry and cranberry flavors are plush, supple and juicy, with notes of matcha and cumin, plus a touch of wild thyme. Impressive for its vividness and precision, with a long, expressive finish, where details of lavender and tomato leaf linger. Drink now through 2039.—M.W.

Shows an impressive, focused and generous mix of salted and preserved lemon, grilled pineapple, and guava notes that are aromatic, precise and juicy. Details of sesame seed candy, brown butter, crunchy sea salt and crispy shortbread add complexity, as does the floral thread of orange blossoms. There’s plenty of harmony and a persistent finish. Drink now through 2038.—M.W.

Coming from the same site used for their Blanc de Blancs, the 2023 Chardonnay Red Point Vineyard is a more golden yellow color and has layered complexity and dark flinty reduction giving way to grilled pineapple, ginger, and honeyed citrus oils. Full-bodied and deeply textured, it still retains terrific energy and bright acidity throughout. Drink 2026-2040.

The 2023 Chardonnay Gravel Bench Vineyard is a bright yellow/silver color and features a gravelly mineral drive that defines the wine. Once heavily marked by new oak, the élevage has been reduced dramatically and now sits closer to 20% new oak, allowing the terroir to shine through. Aromas of saffron-like spice, lifted minerality, and subtle flinty smoke emerge from the glass. Silky and rounded, it has terrific balance, saline energy, and a refined backbone that should allow it to improve over the next decade or more. Drink 2027-2042.