Copain's 2015 Chardonnay Brosseau is distinctly mineral, structured and savory, as wines from Chalone tend to be. Even so, there is good depth to the fruit, within the restrained Copain style. Smoke, slate, dried herbs, lemon peel and crushed rocks add shades of nuance to this beautifully chiseled, pure Chardonnay. There is so much to like here.

This estate covers 36ha in total, with the grand vin coming from 24ha along the côtes, unaffected by frost. The vines grow on south-facing slopes on a mix of hard asteries limestone and softer molasses du Fronsadais. This is a rather lovely 2017 from winemaker Pierre Seillan, showing excellent density with touches of well-textured raspberry and crushed damson fruit. The austerity is evident, but it unwinds itself beautifully through the palate, and the harmony makes it one of the successes in St-Émilion. Harvested 21 September to 5 October. 80% new oak, a touch more than in 2016. 3.7pH.

The 2015 Red Wine (Sonoma County) is soft, lush and inviting. Smoke, game, gravel, tobacco and incense add wild, savory underpinning to this racy, Cabernet Franc-based blend. The 2015 is a very pretty and expressive wine with tons of Chalk Hill character. Plush fruit and silky tannins will make the 2015 easy to drink and enjoy young.

Opening in the glass with notes of blackberries, blood orange and sweet soil, the 2015 Pinot Noir Panorama Vineyard North Crest is one of the deeper, more fruit-driven wines in the range this year, with a medium-bodied, succulent palate and a generous core of fruit. Drink it now or over the next six years.

The 2015 Révélation, Captûre's 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, is laced with the essence of lavender, spice, violet, mint and inky fruit. This mid-weight, gracious Cabernet Sauvignon is quite refined, especially within the context of the vintage.

The 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Les Pionniers emerges from a single block within the Jackson family's Alexander Mountain Estate. Pliant and deep, the Pionniers offers striking texture and fine overall nuance. Lemon confit, melon and minty notes all flesh out in this super-expressive Sauvignon Blanc from Captûre.

The 2016 Pinot Noir Machado is quite tight-knit after its very recent bottling, unwinding in the glass with notions of cherry, strawberry preserve, rose petal, cinnamon and orange rind—seemingly the most floral and high-toned of these 2016s. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, supple and fine-boned, without the power and richness of the Hapgood or 3D, but endowed with lovely energy.

Dark cherry, plum, grilled herbs, game, smoke, licorice and lavender infuse the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley) with tons of character. Beams of tannin and persistent saline notes – both typical of Knights Valley – give the 2015 much of its character. There is so much to like.

Arrowood's 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard emerges from 80 year-old, own-rooted vines in this historic Moon Mountain vineyard. The 2014 is wild, powerful and savory – as wines from this site tend to be – and yet remains wonderfully nuanced and silky. The 2014 is deceptively medium in body, but it has more than enough depth to handle the 100% new oak.

Velvety and succulent with minerality, depth, and spice; pure and tangy with racy energy from an Aussie producer specializing in Mediterranean varieties.

The 2016 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley) is gorgeous. Fresh, floral and nuanced, with lovely red berry character, the 2016 has a lot to offer, especially at this price point. The Russian River Pinot is a blend of fruit from fourteen different sites.

As Adam Lee wraps up his winemaking duties after the sale of this winery and fulfillment of contractual obligations, we get to enjoy the fruits of his labors once again. There’s lively cherry fruit, fall spice and a touch of Santa Rita Hills funk here, and it’s a tasty combination. Give this a good decanting to allow it all to come together.

The 2015 Merlot captures the richness of the vintage, but with a good bit of savory character and Mt. Veeder mountain structure to play off those elements. At once powerful and also nuanced, the 2015 has quite a bit to offer. The Merlot is super-expressive today, and should drink well for another decade, perhaps more.

The 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Journey is powerful, deep and resonant, all qualities that should allow it to develop nicely with time in bottle. Smoke, slate, pear, anise and dried flowers all flesh out in this decidedly authoritative, incisive Sauvignon. Fermentation and aging in barrel gives the wine quite a bit of added power and texture.

The 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Helena Bench is the richest and most powerful of these Sauvignon Blancs from Matanzas Creek. Textured and inviting, with striking complexity throughout, the 2016 is distinguished by its mid-palate resonance and exceptional balance. Hints of melon, pear, smoke, apple and jasmine add the closing shades of nuance.

Another Anderson Valley Pinot Noir that is light enough in color to read through, but not at all light in aroma or flavor. This small production wine features clone 2A to great effect, with aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, dry earth and fall spice that are plump mid-palate and finish with bright acidity and oak spice coming forward. A fine accompaniment for fish or fowl.

La Jota's 2015 Cabernet Franc is fleshy, dark and expressive. Mocha, espresso, grilled herbs, licorice and spice notes give the 2015 lovely aromatic depth to play off the natural richness of the fruit. There is a good bit of tannin that is going to need time to soften. This is very nicely done.

Another compelling, delicious wine, La Jota's 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon is gorgeous. Racy and opulent in the glass, the 2015 exudes depth in its plump, dark-fleshed fruit. Chocolate, plum and licorice infuse the finish in this opulent, flamboyant Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink it over the next decade or so.

This yellow colored Chardonnay from the Russian River opens with a fragrant and appealing pear and oak bouquet with a hint of pineapple and banana bread. On the palate, this wine is full bodied, slightly acidic and a little juicy. The flavor profile is pear and oak with notes pineapple. I also detected hints of butterscotch and green melon. The finish is dry and its flavors and mild acidity linger nicely. This Chard would pair well with chicken cordon bleu.

The 2016 Chardonnay Seco Highlands is the most exotic and perfumed of the Kendall-Jackson Chardonnays. Then again, that is the signature of the Rued Clone that plays an important role in the blend. Exotic stone fruit and floral notes all mesh together in this distinctive, nuanced Chardonnay. Unctuous on the palate, with terrific depth, the 2016 has a ton of personality.

Kendall-Jackson's 2015 Chardonnay Stature is plush, tropical and opulent, with quite a bit of textural depth and intensity. A wine of volume and breadth, the 2015 hits all the right notes. Floral overtones add nuance to the yellow orchard and lightly tropical flavors.

The 2015 Pinot Noir Jennifer's is the most powerful and bombastic of these wines. There is plenty of Russian River flamboyance. Super-ripe black cherry, plum, cola, spice and licorice all come to life. The Jennifer's will appeal most to readers who enjoy racy, opulent Pinots. For all of its flavor intensity, the 2015 preserves quite a bit of brightness.

The 2015 Pinot Noir Hailey's Block is tightly wound and reticent next to the other wines in the range, but it nevertheless offers striking purity in its raspberry, blood orange and pomegranate flavors. I would prefer to cellar the 2015 for at least a year or two, as it is not ready to offer maximum pleasure just yet.

The 2016 Chardonnay Four Hearts Vineyards presents a typically lush, textured expression of the Russian River, with plenty of apricot, peach, baked apple, vanillin, spice and chamomile notes. Pliant and forward, with terrific depth, the 2016 has much to offer. Even with its obvious intensity, the 2016 maintains a good deal of freshness.

The 2015 Chardonnay Sevens Bench is soft, supple and beautifully textured, all of which make it easy to drink and enjoy young. Gently leaning tropical fruit and apricot notes flesh out in this engaging, textured Chardonnay.