If unabashedly oaky and long on leesy complexities, this broadly filled youngster never forgets its fruity duties, and, from first sniff through to its lengthy finish, it keeps ripe apples well within its varietal crosshairs. Slightly oily in feel and moderately full in body, it finishes with a crisping bit of acidity and a nicely managed touch of heat that confirms its minor bias to ripeness.

Four different clones are separately fermented and then blended to make this uniquebottling. An expansive nose shows vibrant pineapple, peach, and orange fruit with lemondrop and butterscotch accents. It's rich and mouthfilling, like a bite of banana cream pie, and turns maybe a it orangy-sweet. Shy on subtlely, it packs in a lot of juicy flavor.

Rich and flavorful, with a complex core of pear, fig, melon and toasty oak. Well focused, with deep, concentrated flavors and a long, rich aftertaste that fans out and lingers.

Deep golden cast. Full-bodied. Balanced acidity. Highly extracted. Moderately oaked. Brown spices, tropical fruits, yeast. Generous aromatics lead to a rich mouthfeel buttressed by firm acidity. Ripe and intense, yet well balanced with complex flavors.

The 2011 Pinot Noir MacLean's Block is one of the more immediate Pinots in the range. Autumn leaves, tobacco, dried cherries and sweet spices inform the finish. The style is a bit chunky and rough around the edges within the context of Russian River Pinot. Ideally, the 2011 is best enjoyed sooner rather than later.

Light gold. Dense and ripe on the nose, offering powerful pear skin, yellow plum and blonde tobacco aromas. An intriguing cherry pit quality emerges with air, adding a sense of depth. Intensely flavored but light in weight, with precise orchard fruit flavors, a gentle acid lift and a note of woodsmoke. Finishes with bright minerality and good length.

89 Points Hartford Court Three Jacks Vineyard 2004 Russian River Valley. Close to its mate above in depth and in richness, it may be a touch less fruity overall, but its never short on that score, and its oaky, ripe apple and pear qualities persist from first sniff to lasting aftertaste. Like its partner, it has all the stuffing needed to improve with age.

Pale yellow. Leesy, deeply pitched nose offers a musky quality along with some charred oak. Then supple and fairly rich, with layered flavors of pear nectar, pineapple and flowers. Finishes with good length and the texture of fruit pitch.

It is hard to fault this entry-level Pinot, which captures the soft, velvety mouthfeel of Pinot so eloquently. Brambly fruit picks up nuances of cola and caramel on the finish.

Readers looking for a more understated, restrained effort will enjoy Hartford's 1999 Zinfandel Dina's Vineyard (204 cases). This 90-year old vineyard produced 204 cases of Zinfandel that finished with a mere 14.5% alcohol. Offering up spicy red and black fruit aromas, medium to full body, excellent harmony, good acidity, and impressive balance, it should drink well for 6-7. All of these old vine 1999 Zinfandels are made from yields averaging under two tons of fruit per acre.

Mainly Zinfandel, with 6% Alicante Bouschet and a few drops of other, undefined varieties. The color is very dark. The aroma is spicy and earthy, with notes of blackberries, cassis, blueberries and cocoa nib, as well as some overripe raisins. Dry and tannic, a big, ripe barbecue wine, although a little too robust for my taste.

The 2013 Zinfandel Jolene’s Vineyard also comes from head-pruned vines over 100 years of age. It spends 8-9 months in 28% new French oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. A potentially outstanding effort, it is somewhat closed and tart acids dominate its raspberry and red and black cherry flavor profile. Medium to full-bodied with heady alcohol, it should drink well between 2015 and 2023.

The 2012 Zinfandel Jolene's Vineyard comes across as a bit compact and unyielding at this stage. The first impression is quite intense, but then the wine shuts down on the mid-palate and finish. This is the only Hartford Zinfandel that is 100% Zinfandel.

The 2010 Zinfandel Fannuchi-Wood Road Vineyard is one of the more ethereal, mid-weight Zinfandels within the context of this grape. Sleek, silky tannins frame an expressive core of fruit in this vibrant, beautifully delineated Zinfandel. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018.

Dense and tightly structured at first, with big plum and white pepper aromas. Gradually opens to complex wild berry, licorice and brown spice flavors that finish with ripe but firm tannins. Needs time. Best from 2012 through 2016.

Deep ruby. Very smoky aromas of cherry, blueberry and grilled meat; smells like syrah. Pliant dark fruit flavors are supported by juicy acidity and framed by supple tannins. Picks up a spicy quality on the long, zesty finish. Very fresh and easy to drink now.

2005 HARTFORD ZINFANDEL HARTFORD VINEYARD Hartford Court's 2005 Zinfandels are considerably lighter than previous vintages. It was a cool year and I suspect Zinfandel never received the heat it needs to achieve full power. The 2005 Zinfandel Hartford Vineyard (289 cases) exhibits a dark ruby color, crisp acidity, a lean style, plenty of cherry and raspberry fruit, not a great deal of body, but good acidity, spice, and earthiness. Drink it over the next 3-4 years......

Bright, deep red-ruby. Crushed redcurrant, dark plum and blackberry on the nose. Suave and silky but serious in the mouth, but with a bit less definition to the dark plum and cherry flavors than the Fanucchi-Wood wine displays. Finishes a bit edgy and not at all overly sweet, with hints of peppery spices, licorice and herbs.

Saturated, bright ruby-red. Pure aromas of blackberry, blueberry, espresso and black pepper. Sweet, supple and nicely balanced, with enticing black fruit and dark chocolate flavors. Ripely tannic, supple finish. Made up largely of declassified lots from Hartford Court's four vineyard-designated zins, all of which are from very old vines.

The 2013 Zinfandel Russian River is a 2,500-case cuvée made from old vine, dry-farmed, head-pruned vineyards averaging over 100 years of age. Aged nine months in French oak, it exhibits lots of strawberry and red currant notes intertwined with notions of earth, charcuterie, meat, pepper and herbs. This complex, delicious 2013 Zinfandel is best drunk over the next 2-4 years.

Bright red fruit, crushed flowers, mint and sweet spices jump from the glass in the 2012 Zinfandel Russian River Valley. This is a fairly bright, floral Zinfandel with Pinot-ish leanings and excellent balance. It is also a terrific introduction to the Hartford Zinfandels.

Light, sleek and deftly balanced, this plays the cherry and cocoa flavors against a thin veil of tannins, lingering delicately and persistently.

Napa Valley’s Extraordinary 2016 Cabernets - Part 1 The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Pleinair is an attractive, mid-weight wine. Bright red cherry fruit and floral overtones grace this open-knit, easygoing Cabernet Sauvignon. Vineyard sources are Stagecoach, Cardinale, Bosche, Red Hen, Wurtelle and Yverdon. Drink it over the next few years.

The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Pleinair is a rich, juicy wine. Black cherry, violet, mocha, chocolate espresso and sweet spices are all pushed forward. Succulent and expressive, the 2014 will drink well pretty much upon release. The flavor profile is a bit sweet and oaky, but the wine's overall balance is impeccable. This is an especially juicy style that is sure to find many admirers, especially given its price point relative to most Napa Valley Cabernets.

The 2016 Riesling is done in a slightly off-dry style that makes it an excellent choice for drinking as an aperitif. Even so, there is plenty of brightness and vivacity to the peat, green apple and floral notes. Winemaker Laura Díaz Muñoz sources fruit from the Lokoya estate on Spring Mountain for this delicious, flavorful white. Drink it over the next year or two.