Opaque ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of blackberry, plum jam and cola, with subtle sassafras and woodsmoke nuances adding complexity. Sweet and smoky on the palate, offering juicy cherry and dark berry flavors and an exotic peatiness. The smoky quality carries through the long, gently tannic finish, which features notes of bitter cherry and tangy dark berry skin. As appealing as this Zin is right now I'll bet that a few more years of patience will be rewarded.

Bright straw. Lively, spice-accented aromas of fresh citrus and orchard fruits, along with suggestions of jasmine and green tea. Nervy and focused on the palate, offering intense lime and green apple flavors that flesh out slowly on the back half. In a fat-free, linear style for this often exotic variety, this wine finishes with firm grip and lingering floral character.

Bright ruby. The nose opens slowly to display scents of fresh red currant and cherry, complicated by musky herbs, floral oils and a hint of smokiness. Chewy and tightly focused on the palate, offering bitter cherry and raspberry flavors and a touch of cracked pepper. On the inscrutable side today, finishing with firm grip, dusty tannins and a late whiplash of sweet red fruit.

Deep ruby. High-pitched red fruit and floral scents, along with hints of sassafras and rose. Silky and seamless on the palate, offering juicy raspberry and floral pastille flavors and a touch of anise. Dusty tannins frame the finish, which clings with good fruity tenacity.

This is a chardonnay-lover’s chardonnay. Gorgeous notes of stone fruit, honeysuckle and butterscotch. Seamless texture. Decidedly decadent, but maintains its balance. Lovely.

A red with attractive currant, blueberry and spice character on the nose and palate. Full body, very silky and polished tannins and a ripe and rich finish. Shows the ripeness of the vintage. Yet this remains fresh and bright. A Bordeaux blend with a touch of sangiovese. Drink or hold.

A soft and velvety red with chocolate, cedar, dark berry, currant and new wood aromas and flavors. Full body and a fruity finish. Bordeaux blend with plenty of panache. Drink or hold.

A red with dark berry and tar aromas and flavors. Full body, chewy tannins and a long finish. Needs time to soften. A blend of mostly merlot with cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit verdot. Better in 2017.

Ripe raspberry juice is spiced heavily with cloves rendered in butter and flashes of black pepper on this wine by Adam Lee. It’s fresh and flavorful on the powerful palate, with lots of black spice, vibrant berry juice and fresh thyme on the edges. This wine is alive with energy and verve.

All types of tea, from black to nettle to Greek mountain to chamomile, show on this wine’s herbally powered nose, with bits of sagebrush and wild berries thrown in for good measure. Tea elements also power the palate, along with cranberry fruit and raspberry leaf, held together with grippy tannins, at least for this grape.

From a vineyard in the foothills of the Mayacamas Range, this shows dramatic ripeness in flashes of alcohol, and plenty of new oak in scents of coffee and smoke, yet there’s clarity of flavor here: tangy black raspberry and cedar tones that provide a center of energy to its roasted edges. The fruit fights mightily, and wins out in the end. Its burly intensity would ease the transition between a porterhouse and a plate of firm cheeses.

From a vineyard in the foothills of the Mayacamas Range, this shows dramatic ripeness in flashes of alcohol, and plenty of new oak in scents of coffee and smoke, yet there's clarity of flavor here: tangy black raspberry and cedar tones that provide a center of energy to its roasted edges. The fruit fights mightily, and wins out in the end. Its burly intensity would ease the transition between a porterhouse and a plate of firm cheeses.

This well-known California brand is gently dipping its toe into Oregon. This is a sturdy, well-crafted effort with an interesting mix of kiwi, lime and pear fruit, wrapped in biscuity barrel flavors. Seamlessly smooth, it offers enough acidity to keep everything balanced.

A mineral layering of waxy pear gives this wine a light, crisp complexion, punctuated by subtle, oaky spice and plenty of vibrant lemon. Light on the palate, it’ll serve well for larger gatherings.

A rich, stylish effort, with a seductive overlay of smoky, toasty oak to the ripe pear, fig, nectarine and melon flavors, gaining depth and length on the finish.

Splits the difference between pure and well-oaked fruit, with a structured beam of vibrant green apple and pear flavors. The result is a deftly balanced, deeply nuanced, rich and layered wine of notable vibrance and edginess.

A no nonsense Napa cabernet with chocolate, berry and plum character. Medium body, firm tannins and a fresh finish. Fun to drink.

Appealing, with a rich, juicy core of intense fruitiness, offering tiers of melon, citrus and tropical fruit. Very clean, pure and focused.

Tightly wound, with a firm, dense mix of citrus-infused pear, green apple and honeydew flavors, revealing a wet stone minerality that gives this a distinctive personality.

A round and simple merlot with plum, chocolate and olive character. Full to medium body, velvety tannins. Grows on you. Drink and enjoy.

Offers a tasteful mix of ripe pear, honeydew, honeysuckle, fig and apple flavors, clean and well-focused. This is persistent on the finish, ending a touch pithy.

This full-bodied, rich and layered version hits most of the high notes, with honey, pear, fig and melon flavors. Features nice acidity and a long, clean finish.

This wine is an overachiever from Monterey where cool ocean breezes and foggy days build great Pinots. The fruit is lush and varietally correct — tea leaf, bing cherry, cranberry and spice. It’s a great wine to lure a new generation of wine drinkers to a winemaker’s holy grail. And it is indeed liberated: from heavy alcohol and overly ripe fruit.

If one must find a liberated angle, this is an approachable, delicious Cabernet free of aggressive tannins and stewed fruit flavors. Aromas of cherry, blackberry, currant, rich dark chocolate and vanilla are followed by dark fruit flavors with wonderfully integrated oak and braced with acidity. The Cabernet fruit gets an assist from touches of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Alcohol is a well-mannered 13.5 percent.

While Sauvignon Blancs are often herbal and grassy, sometimes fermented in oak and infused with spice and smoky cedar, this one is different. It’s crisp and dry with bright flavors. It has a great spine of acidity to add balance to the fruit — citrus, passionfruit, lime, kiwi, green apple. It’s stainless steel fermented and aged.